M1009 Help

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

So I just found out yesterday that my grandpa has a great piece of green metal, a M1009. It's a parts truck for my grandpa's 83 Silverado but we need to see if the engine is any good. I have been trying for a couple hours at this point to get the engine to crank (with a 24v source of course) but there is no indication anywhere that the truck has power. I have checked the power distribution bars and they have power but is there somewhere specific that I should be checking that is easy enough to get at? The truck has been sitting for at least 8 years and I will try to get some pictures of it up.

 

[Warthog]

The truck is a 12v/24v hybrid. If you supplied 24v to the entire truck you may have fried something.

we need to know what has been modified (pic work best) on the electrical system.

are you using batteries or just a 24v source? Are you using the batteries cables?

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

I do know about the hybrid system which is why as mentioned in your post I used the cables with 2 batteries in series. I do not know of any modifications and the truck should be stock. Sadly I tried to post pictures but am unable to since I am using my iPod and it doesn't want to do that.

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Sorry for the delay but here are some pictures though not specifically of the electrical since I took these before I started working on it.

 

[wheelspinner]

PARTS TRUCK? Man that looks nice, get it running, get it green and get it driving!

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Yes, I do have to admit that at this point I have seriously considered asking my grandpa to find another truck for parts. About the only things wrong with it that I can remember is that there is no transmission or drive shafts, it has been sitting for at least 8 years (with obvious results though no animals have gotten to it thankfully), and the aforementioned electrical problems. It is in fairly pristine condition under all the crap and blue paint. Almost no rust too if I remember correctly.

 

[stampy]

What happens when you turn the key on do you ge a glow plug light or any noise? Will the starter turn? There is not enough info for us to help. If you ONLY have power to the distribution block then I would start by cleaning all the wires individually and putting them back on shiny bad contact is a bit<h on these trucks check the grounds too. You should also clean (polish) ALL the fuses while checking for blown ones.

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Sorry, I thought I was specific enough. What is happening is that the truck is getting power to the distribution blocks in the engine bay but there are no lights or starter or anything that seems to be getting power. The power gauge is not seeming to get power either. Today, I am going to be dragging the truck out of its spot so I can get to all of the electrical and I found a fuse box diagram so I am going to be going through every bit of electrical I can. In my opinion, the fuse box would probably explain the problem I'm having but who knows.

 

[doghead]

Yup, check the fuse box.

 

[Warthog]

Working on a diagram for you.

The 12v power source wire has been removed. Without it nothing will work.

 

[Warthog]

REMOVE ALL BATTERY CABLES

1 - The truck still has two alternators so it is more than likely still a 24v setup.No indiactation that anything has been butchered

2 - You will need two batteries

3 - You will need to make a jumper wire to feed the 12v side of the truck. It hooks you at the diamond shaped 12v terminal block.

4 - You will need a battery cable between the two.

If the cables are missing you can get some from WalMart/autozone. Depending on what batteries you use I would use the marine terminal for the posts and use the thumb screws to connect the cables.

4a - remove the starter relay from under the dash and disconnect it. We don't want a runaway starter

5 - Hook up the positive terminal of the front battery and also connect the jumper wire for the 12v system

6 - Hook up the negative terminal of the front battery. Then turn the key to the "on" position. Do not start. You are checking for any indication of lights/power in the cab.

7 - disconnect the negative cable.

8 - connect the positive terminal of the front battery to the negative terminal of the rear battery

8a - connect the positive terminal of the rear battery

9 - connect the negative terminal of the front battery

10 - check for any flames or sparks

11 - very carefully reinstall the starter relay under the dash.

12 - If everything looks okay quickly bump the key to see if the starter will engage.

13 - Report your findings and any issues that arise

14 - If everything is okay then we will attemp to bleed the fuel system and start the engine

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Thank you for the guide! I might have a hard time following it but I will try to when I head out to the truck since it is at my Grandpa's place. Thankfully, I will be in range of their wifi so I can use my ipod out there. Is there any chance that you (Warthog or someone else) can modify one of my pictures or someone else's to point out the diamond terminal in step #3? Without actually being out at the truck, it looks like it is the block just up and left of the master brake cylinder... Thanks for the information and hopefully this CUCV shall live again!

Any idea who can decode its markings?

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Any specific places you guys could use pictures of?

 

[Warthog]

Pictures where added.

Are all the battery cables still there?

The truck is worth saving as is. A transmission and drive shafts are easy to get.

CARNAC should be able to look up the trucks info. It will only give you the last time it was entered into the system before being surplused. Follow the directions in the first post, otherwise he gets iritated.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101483-2013-VIN-INFO-Thread

 

[alburms311]

Pulled this pic from the web, but it shows the 12V block

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Thank you for those pictures! Yes the battery cables are still there and do have a good connection. Thanks for the info on CARNAC as well, I knew he did Deuces but I didn't know that he did CUCVs as well. On saving the truck, that is extremely tempting at this point but my grandpa is the actual owner of it and since he bought it for the engine I will just have to ask him what he wants to do (he is also out of town right now but will be back in a few days). On the 12v jumper to the diamond block, I take it that it should go to the terminal on the left side where the arrow is pointing?

Edit: Thank you as well alburms! Your post came up right as I posted mine. So the block has only 1 terminal! That helps for figuring out where to connect a jumper!

 

[Warthog]

There are two terminals on the block. All the stock trucks use the larger terminal on the right hand side. It doesn't really matter which one you connect to as the are jumpered together.

If the engine starts and you decide to "keep" the truck, you will need to add a fusible link to this wire. It will help protect the truck from burning up.

 

[Warthog]

Googling UTES comes up with

http://www.allacronyms.com/cat/2/UTES/alpha

Unit Training Equipment Site

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Thanks for the clarification on the diamond block and that sure is an interesting piece of information about this truck! I will probably be posting on the info thread soon. I will also be finally heading out to the truck in the next 10-15 minutes (I had a nice lazy morning ).

 

[stampy]

Heck if all he wants it for is the 6.2 I have one of those in an engine container...We could work a trade...LOL