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M1009 How To Roll Down the Rear Window??

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Put the plastic clip into the remote latch mechanism and clock it so when the rod is inserted thru the clip the locks can rotate clockwise and lock onto the rod and retain it in place. Pre-fit the clip into the remote and make sure the rod fits thru the clip before hand. It should be that easy.
 

jplace1011

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489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Put the plastic clip into the remote latch mechanism and clock it so when the rod is inserted thru the clip the locks can rotate clockwise and lock onto the rod and retain it in place. Pre-fit the clip into the remote and make sure the rod fits thru the clip before hand. It should be that easy.
I have to admit I’m lost and it’s not working. I’ve tried different things, but I just don’t get it. I placed the rod into the plastic, turning it different ways. Still it doesn’t stay in the plastic and the tailgate isn’t working (opening).

I’m not Mr. Mechanic, sorry for that. I literally think I need a step by step with pics or video. Errr!!

p.s. the round piece broke today, Im assuming I should order a new o e or fix this one. It must hold the rod up a bit?






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jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Put the plastic clip into the remote latch mechanism and clock it so when the rod is inserted thru the clip the locks can rotate clockwise and lock onto the rod and retain it in place. Pre-fit the clip into the remote and make sure the rod fits thru the clip before hand. It should be that easy.
Scratch that! I figured it out. I had to put the metal pole end into the plastic hole first, then snap the plastic o to the pole. I was doing it backwards!! I should still replace or fix that rubber wheel right?

Thank you again CUCVRUS!!


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cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
That foam rubber piece will do nothing. Put a marshmallow in there. That just makes it rattle resistant. And if you can hear that rod rattling you have great ears. I would not worry about that foam piece. You do know that to open the gate you must push in on it from the outside when pulling the handle. That is so someone riding in the back could not just pull the handle and the gate falls open while in transit. Good Luck. I think you nailed this. Remember oil and grease. Spray lubes will evaporate before you close the gate. Glad I could help. Grease the regulator gears and the crank and driver really well.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
That foam rubber piece will do nothing. Put a marshmallow in there. That just makes it rattle resistant. And if you can hear that rod rattling you have great ears. I would not worry about that foam piece. You do know that to open the gate you must push in on it from the outside when pulling the handle. That is so someone riding in the back could not just pull the handle and the gate falls open while in transit. Good Luck. I think you nailed this. Remember oil and grease. Spray lubes will evaporate before you close the gate. Glad I could help. Grease the regulator gears and the crank and driver really well.
The window wasn’t rolling up properly after I put things back together. So I started checking the tracks, etc. In the process I saw this pice sitting at the bottom on the tailgate. I also noticed something else, the spring in hanging down in one end. Any idea where the piece goes and where to attach the hanging end of the spring?





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cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Yes. That piece was designed to allow the handle to work only when the window is in the down position. It can be eliminated. I seen it in place in the first 2 pictures you sent me. What made you take it out? That piece has been discontinued for over 20 years. If you can get it back in plce that spring holds it in place just like in the picture you sent me. 1626133347955.png
It slides down when the sash hits it and allows the handle to operate. I know you can do away with it. It basically just sits in place and the spring holds it there. I don't have a mechanism in front of me at the moment. That bottom nylon holder can be duplicated with 2 heavy wire ties run thru the bracket. Again oil and grease these pieces lightly so the slide easily.
1626133604107.png
The area on the left leg lower section appears to be bent a bit. If it is straighten it. Lube it and reinstall it as you have it pictured. Good Luck. I hope that helps. Maybe even mess with the latch and discover how that rod activates the handle.
1626133801234.png
That plastic coated L piece can be adjusted to the left more so it supports the rod better. Give some of these tips a try and report back. Good Luck.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Yes. That piece was designed to allow the handle to work only when the window is in the down position. It can be eliminated. I seen it in place in the first 2 pictures you sent me. What made you take it out? That piece has been discontinued for over 20 years. If you can get it back in plce that spring holds it in place just like in the picture you sent me. View attachment 839499
It slides down when the sash hits it and allows the handle to operate. I know you can do away with it. It basically just sits in place and the spring holds it there. I don't have a mechanism in front of me at the moment. That bottom nylon holder can be duplicated with 2 heavy wire ties run thru the bracket. Again oil and grease these pieces lightly so the slide easily.
View attachment 839500
The area on the left leg lower section appears to be bent a bit. If it is straighten it. Lube it and reinstall it as you have it pictured. Good Luck. I hope that helps. Maybe even mess with the latch and discover how that rod activates the handle.
View attachment 839501
That plastic coated L piece can be adjusted to the left more so it supports the rod better. Give some of these tips a try and report back. Good Luck.
Yea, after I got to thinking I looked at my photos. I decided to just leave the piece off for now. I already ordered new side window channels. I’m waiting for them to arrive. The left one I have is really bent. Thank you again sir. You’ve been so very helpful. I’ll report back soon.


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jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Yea, after I got to thinking I looked at my photos. I decided to just leave the piece off for now. I already ordered new side window channels. I’m waiting for them to arrive. The left one I have is really bent. Thank you again sir. You’ve been so very helpful. I’ll report back soon.


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p.s. I bought this to lube the back of my speedometer. I’m thinking I can use it on the tailgate parts too. Do you have any ideas for oil?



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cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,437
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Do you have any ideas for oil?

Good old motor oil in a squirt can. Just like the tin man in the Wizard of Oz. You can hear the squeaks and binds fade away. I use Lubriplate on the speedometer cable. I pull the cable out entirely and lube the housing. Work the cable back in and out a few times till it is lubed top to bottom. Same thing on the heater control cables. Lube them and work them back and forth several times and get instant nearly permanent results. Good Luck.
Lubriplate L0135-063 Chain and Cable Fluid Penetrating Oil
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I trust you have reassembled the gate and everything is operational again.
I have reassembled things temporarily, I’m waiting on a few new parts from LMC. I rolled it up and locked it all for now. I’m also waiting for the can of oil you recommended to arrive. Thank you again for all of your help sir. I’ll report back once I have at it again.


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jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I trust you have reassembled the gate and everything is operational again.
Hello CUCVRUS!

I ordered and installed side channels for the tailgate window and channel caps. It now rolls up and down very nicely.

The channel that the glass sits in is still bent on one side. It doesn’t seem to be affecting it. I do have a new channel and rubber strip for that window.

I still need to install the new seals and weather stripping. Do you recommend anything to clean/remove the resin on the tailgate form the old seals?

I plan on installing the seals last, after I lube/oil everything, etc.

Thanks again for your help, I’ll keep you updated. I also have another question coming soon about my speedometer.

Thanks again sir!


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cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,437
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Do you recommend anything to clean/remove the resin on the tailgate form the old seals?
I am not sure what resin it is that you speak of. Also the bent sash should be repaired or replaced for installing new side window guides. That sash is fitted the same thickness as the glass and must glide thru that channel smoothly and straight or it will be tearing up and resisting movement up and down every time. Remember OIL and Grease. Make sure your rollers on the regulator arms are not worn down and they are actually still round with no flat spots. They should turn, pivot and roll 360* with little or no resistance. Like I keep saying everything properly fitted and lubed inside that gate you should be able to button it up and not visit the inside for many years. I went 10 years on my M1009 and never opened it up again after fixing it properly the first time. Good Luck. If it were my rear glass and sash I would use the adhesive and skip the rubber wedge strip to attach the 2 pieces together. That hammering on glass is scary stuff. Take Care.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Do you recommend anything to clean/remove the resin on the tailgate form the old seals?
I am not sure what resin it is that you speak of. Also the bent sash should be repaired or replaced for installing new side window guides. That sash is fitted the same thickness as the glass and must glide thru that channel smoothly and straight or it will be tearing up and resisting movement up and down every time. Remember OIL and Grease. Make sure your rollers on the regulator arms are not worn down and they are actually still round with no flat spots. They should turn, pivot and roll 360* with little or no resistance. Like I keep saying everything properly fitted and lubed inside that gate you should be able to button it up and not visit the inside for many years. I went 10 years on my M1009 and never opened it up again after fixing it properly the first time. Good Luck. If it were my rear glass and sash I would use the adhesive and skip the rubber wedge strip to attach the 2 pieces together. That hammering on glass is scary stuff. Take Care.
I will go a head and bend that sash back, without the rubber piece. I’ll do it without the glass in as well. The rollers are perfect, I replaced the regulator so that helps.

I’ll lube it all up again once I get it it all back together.

The seals I’m referring to are the square shaped ones that sit under the access panel as well as the ones that run along the outside of the gate. Brake cleaner and a rag might be the answer.

Thank You Thank You for your help, I very much appreciate you!!

I’ll report back once I work on it again.


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Last edited:
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