• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1009 is deadsville...what happened?

Asmoday

Member
225
0
16
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Hello all,

I went out to start the M1009 this morning and when I got in and turned the key I saw a very very brief glow on one of the warning lights and that was it. I heard nothing and turning the key gives me nothing. No click...no nada. Everything is completely dead.... dash lights, driving lights, etc. etc. Also these is no indication whatsoever on the volt gauge.

The "doghead" starter relay mod as well as the glow plug relay(resistor removed with new relay and AC60's) mod has been done.

I did not have time to test anything since I was headed to the airport fo4am flight but I figured I'd get some opinions from you guys so I have info.

Could it just be that the front battery just gave up the ghost? I would think there would still be some volt gauge indication from the rear battery?

Thanks!
 

antennaclimber

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,367
949
113
Location
State College, PA
Start by checking the battery voltage on the front and rear batteries.

Load test each battery.

Check and clean all battery connections as well. Between the batteries, the positive and negative bus bars on the fire wall and all ground connections to the vehicle.

Report back with your results.
Karl
 

Asmoday

Member
225
0
16
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Thanks for the suggestions...:) I had recently cleaned all that you mention so I'm thinking maybe the front battery went bye bye. I'll know quick when I get home to check later today.

If the front battery completely fails will it give the indications I have? I would think that the rear battery having power still would show something on the volt gauge?

I basically drove it home yesaterday and all was perfect. This morning it was like no batteries were in there with the exception of a quick dash light glow then blackness when I turned the key. EVERYTHING is dead...:(
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
The voltage gauge will not work without a good front battery because the VM relay requires 12v from the front battery to engage.

Either the battery is toast (yes they do die without notice), or you have a loose connection. If the connections are good and the battery is okay, check for voltage at the 12v Positive Terminal Block next to the master cylinder.

As AC said, always start any electrical troubleshooting with fully charged and load tested batteries. You are just guessing without knowing for sure that the batteries are good. I have seen brand new on the shelf batteries that have been bad.
 
Last edited:

antennaclimber

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,367
949
113
Location
State College, PA
Sounds like the front battery went or you lost a cable/connection between batteries.

A total failure is usually easier to find the problem than an intermittent one.

Your portable volt meter will be your best weapon to find the point of failure.
Karl
 

Asmoday

Member
225
0
16
Location
Los Angeles, CA
OK...Update....

So after much testing with the Fluke and swapping some batteries around it would appear that the front battery gave up the ghost. In the vehicle the front battery would only show 10.5 volts while the rear would show 12.85. When you disconnect the front battery cables the voltage after 10 minutes comes back up to about 12.85 volts on the battery. The instant you put any kind of load on the battery it drops back to 10.5 volts. The interesting thing is when you throw a charger on it...it immediately says charged and it's back at 12.85 volts and the charger goes into trickle charge mode. This happens with both chargers I have plus a trickle charger. Put the battery back in the truck or put a light load on it and bam...10.5 volts. Just hooking the cables back up to the rear battery drops the voltage on the front back down as well.

I don't use Optima batteries in the M1009 but I happened to have a spare that had been sitting for a while so I threw it on the charger and once it was charged installed it and behold the M1009 appeared all normal and fired right up. Volt gauge indicates correctly as well and no Gen lights.

So...I now have the Optima installed temporarily until I can source a new 6TL. For some reason I just don't want to run the Optima's in the M1009 since I've had bad luck in the past even though I have the adapter trays for them.

Any opinions on the Optima's of late?

Thanks...!
photo.jpg
 
Last edited:

truck1

Member
332
10
18
Location
San Anselmo,CA.
Well they show a higher CCA than the 6TL's,but I've got Excide 6TL's in my 1028. One is dated 2004, and the other 2009 and they are still kicking. Nine years out of a battery is hard to beat. My local Napa has 6TL's for about 185-200$. I think I am going to stick to the military's choice.And they can still be maintained. In CA. the military app trumps the environmental laws. Glad it was a simple fix for you!
 
Last edited:

cpf240

Active member
1,479
5
38
Location
Free in Northern Idaho
Mine came with a pair of group 31 batteries. When one went bad, the front one by the way, I was happy to replace them with the $35 refurbs from Interstate. They've been running fine for about a year now.

I thought I had seen an ad a while ago in the classifieds here for a place in SoCal selling 6TLs, but I don't see it now, though I didn't look through all the ads today.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks