M1009 locker issue

[RedneckMilenko]

Alright, I've been on here for about 6 months now and have gained a lot of useful information. But, I have a question that hasn't been fully answered through my searching. I have a M1009 but heard the gov-lock is a POS and really would like to avoid any problems in the future. I've already replaced the TH400 and NP208, don't need too many more head aches. My question is what would be the optimum chioce in locker to put in the rear and the front. It will mostly be an off raod rig but will also see some highway miles too. I'm not planning on the D60 swap, only want to run 36" tires. So please, any useful information would be great. Thank you.

P.S. - This is a build on a budget so I can't really afford airlockers like I'd hoped.

 

[Anubis8472]

Personally I wouldn't bother replacing the gov-lok until it goes.

It's not a bad locker, works great, does what it needs to do.

The problem is that it has a fairly violent engagement mechanism.

When it gets old, as these are, it can begin to 'wear out' or 'gum up' leading to a failure.

When it does fail, because of it's violent nature, it fails in spectacular fashion.

Be mindful of it, go easy on it, keep it cleaned and lubed, and it should do just fine.

If you're building a dedicated off road rig you might consider an axle swap. The 10-bolts can be made plenty strong, but not without plenty of coin. Money no object, a detroit locker, chrome moly shafts, reinforced pinion and axle trusses.

Really though for the price of swapping in a new detroit you could likely find a NOS complete axle as a spare.

 

[Skinny]

36's and 10 bolts don't mix. If you plan on running that size, plan on doing a 14/60 swap. If you can reduce the tire size, they can last with good maintenance and a light foot. I've owned lots of lockers and limited slips. The best I've had in your description of use is a true trac. If you don't expect it to be a full locker, you will be very happy. Plus having them front and rear with an automatic will make it easy to brake modulate them into "locking up" like a HUMVEE and it will be easier on axles.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

Thank you for the info. I may switch over to the D60 but wont I still have the same issue as far as finding a locker for them? Are any available with the same lug pattern as the 10 bolt or will I have to buy new wheels as well? I've seen on here about the ford D60's being swaped in as they don't limit clearance as much as the chevys but will any fabrication be needed? I've worked mostly on newer tucks and never have found anything from ford or dodge just swaping over into a chevy with out a lot of head ache. This is my 1st off road project so I'm not so well versed in everything required. Before this I just handled motor and trans swaps. These trucks seem to be great once you work out the bugs, that's why I bought one instead of buying a gas burning civi K5 already lifted. I just need to find out all the specifics about trouble points with these tucks so I can get to it before it gets me stuck in the bottoms or on the side of the highway.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

Also, if I do go with the D60 swap I'll be looking to run at least 40"s on it. I only was going with 36"s because I thought the 10 bolt could take it. If I do go that big I'm guessing I'll need to upgrade the axles and gears in the 60 as well. My goal is to make a great mud rig that has good raod manners as well. Where I live on the outskirts of Memphis the most popular mud spot we go to, you can't expect to get out without getting stuck a lot with anything smaller than a 40" tire. Anywhere else o off raod requires at least a 10 mile drive and even there anything less than a 35" tire will leave you needing a good friend with TSL boggers.

 

[1ton cucv k5 turbo]

Welcome...


I would look for a CUCV d60/ 14b for your swap.. if it came from a M1008 it will have a Dlocker in the 14 and 4.56 gears.. which will save you some $ in doing the swap. Then, just pick up a E locker for your new D60.. and you will be all set.... Ask me how i know....


if you continue to keep the 6.2l. for your mud truck... it will not help you in the mud.. it does have good torgue and bottom end power, but for that good ole TN mud... you will need high revs and wheel spin.. the 6.2 cant produce. you might want to look at adding a turbo from a 6.5.. but i think your high rev will still be limited....

 

[RedneckMilenko]

So if I rob the axles out of an M1008 with D60's then it will already have a detroit in the rear and I'll just need a gov-lock up front? I've been thinking about the hp issue and heard about the sidewinder turbo kit but I'm guessing your suggestion may be a bit more cost effective plus the sidewinder is only about 9 lbs of boost. I can get 5lbs from an electric supercharger I looked at. Will I need to have a rebuild done on the 6.2 before I add a turbo? I have a feelng my gaskets wouldnt like turbo so much as well as the rings and other seals. But I'm used to gas burners, this is my 1st diesel. This whole truck has been a learning experience to sy the least. Lol!

 

[Skinny]

Ditto on the M1008 axles, bone stock will bolt in and work great. If you can't find them, I would look after some dually Chevy axles because you can run stock Humvee beadlocks without spacers.

 

[Bob H]

Yea, the D60 & 14 bolt swap can be nice.
Gotta look at your end use here
36's on 10 bolts isn't that bad, it's the 3.08 gear ratio that 's bad
You'd want 3.55's or 3.73's, you will find Blazer axles like that cheaper than you'll find the m1008 / M1028 axle sets, then with 4.56's you'll want 40's and a bigger lift

 

[RedneckMilenko]

So it's ether the civi blazer axles with a higher gear set to run 36"s or the axles out of an M1008 or mid 80's chevy dully axles for bolt on with a higher lift and 40"s? Couldn't I have the 308's taken out and a higher gear set put in my current set up?

 

[Anubis8472]

Yes, but the question becomes price.
Swapping the gears will cost about as much as swapping the axles.


I've been looking at options myself for my 1009 and it looks like the cheapest option is to buy a 1008 and yank the parts from that.
People want as much for the 60/14 axles as the whole truck.
So I plan to locate a 1008 for a good price, then I'll be able to swap axles and have a second engine/trans/body parts etc. I can rebuild and keep as spares.

I hate hacking up vehicles for parts, but it is by far the most cost effective option.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

Well at the moment I have a TH400 and an NP208 set for me to rebuild so that won't be needed but the spare motor would be nice. It's just in my area I was lucky to find a M1009 in any kind of decent shape let alone any other military vehicle not being charged an arm and a leg for. So if anyone knows of any M1008's being sold in the Memphis area or within 75 miles that's in good wrking order let me know. But for now I think I'll just stick with the stock set up, just throw some 33" nitto mud grapplers on it and keep getting pulled out till I can track own a 1008. Not only to upgrade the Blazer but telling people you have D60's under it will feel pretty good too.