M1009 Major Starting Issues

[Herls]

Hello all,

Drove a M1009 from Alabama to Massachusetts without any issues. Two days after getting home began to experience starting issues. Started with turning the key and having no cranking what so ever, just a single "clunk" noise of the starter clicking on and an audible click noise from behind the dash, with the red brake light on. This would resolve on its own by just repeatedly turning the key for a few minutes until it cranked and started

Now today the truck began to crank when the key was turned, but not start. The truck now randomly either cranks when the key is turned with no start or goes back to not cranking at all doing the same process as I described in the first paragraph.

The guy I bought it from gave me a rebuilt Starter, I put it in myself, and there's been no change in symptoms except for that the cranking actually sounds worse now. The truck will randomly start on its own after an hour of repeated cranking attempts

I tried attaching a video of its current presentation but it keeps saying the file is too large even thourh the video is only 8 seconds long. I replaced the starter, ignition solenoid on the firewall and both batteries. It's a 12V system but has two batteries.

Please help if you can. Thank you

 

[Barrman]

Being a 12 volt conversion we might not be able to help all that much.

What ignition solenoid on the firewall?

A stock truck has an ignition switch at the base of the steering column above the brake pedal. Turning the key pushes a rod which moves the ignition switch. The switch sends power to the starter relay at the bottom of the dash above the accelerator pedal. The relay in a stock truck uses 12 volts from the ignition switch to trigger 24 volts to the starter solenoid. Then it works just like a regular 12 or 24 volt starter.

The ignition switch is adjustable and could have vibrated out of alignment enough to cause your issues. Or it could be faulty. Check that out first if you have confirmed by replacement that the starter is good.

 

[Herls]

Being a 12 volt conversion we might not be able to help all that much.

What ignition solenoid on the firewall?

A stock truck has an ignition switch at the base of the steering column above the brake pedal. Turning the key pushes a rod which moves the ignition switch. The switch sends power to the starter relay at the bottom of the dash above the accelerator pedal. The relay in a stock truck uses 12 volts from the ignition switch to trigger 24 volts to the starter solenoid. Then it works just like a regular 12 or 24 volt starter.

The ignition switch is adjustable and could have vibrated out of alignment enough to cause your issues. Or it could be faulty. Check that out first if you have confirmed by replacement that the starter is good.

Thab

Being a 12 volt conversion we might not be able to help all that much.

What ignition solenoid on the firewall?

A stock truck has an ignition switch at the base of the steering column above the brake pedal. Turning the key pushes a rod which moves the ignition switch. The switch sends power to the starter relay at the bottom of the dash above the accelerator pedal. The relay in a stock truck uses 12 volts from the ignition switch to trigger 24 volts to the starter solenoid. Then it works just like a regular 12 or 24 volt starter.

The ignition switch is adjustable and could have vibrated out of alignment enough to cause your issues. Or it could be faulty. Check that out first if you have confirmed by replacement that the starter is good.

Thank you for the reply. I misspoke when I said ignition solenoid, I guess it's the glow plug relay. I was told to replace it as it might have been a cause of the issues I was having. I posted a picutre attached to this reply.

I've been told it's could be a wiring problem or a fuel problem. I had someone tell me it sounds like I didn't shim my starter correctly but I didn't think these had to be shimmed at all. Most people I've spoke too seem to think it's a fuel issue with fuel getting up to the engine from the tank. I will pass along what you posted to my mechanic and make sure he checks it.

Do you know off hand if these had fuel lift pumps OEM or not?

 

[Barrman]

One of the really awesome things about the military vehicle hobby is the Technical Manuals published by the government to maintain them. Look at the top of the screen and you will see a tab called “TM.” Click on it and find the manuals for the CUCV. The -20 has a huge 74 or so page electrical troubleshooting section preceded by a large mechanical troubleshooting section. Don’t rely on somebody guessing what is wrong. Download or print out the TM’s and find out what is wrong.

Here is a video I did about the TM’s:

 

[nyoffroad]

"

"The guy I bought it from gave me a rebuilt Starter, I put it in myself, and there's been no change in symptoms except for that the cranking actually sounds worse now. The truck will randomly start on its own after an hour of repeated cranking attempts"

Hate to say it but you seem to have a couple of problems, so lets break them down.
#1 "Starter not turning the engine over AND now sounds worse." STOP! STOP RIGHT NOW! Do not turn that key again until you get down under that truck and confirm that both (2) starter bolts are there, in place and tight! Next look at front of the starter (towards the motor mount) and you should see a small L shaped bracket from the starter to the engine block, it's very important! Two brackets are available, one for the stock type starter and one for a hi-torque and they are not interchangeable. The starter needs to be fixed before going on

#2 " Do you know off hand if these had fuel lift pumps OEM or not? "
Yes they do have a mechanical lift pump mounted on the right (passenger side) front of the engine block in the typical small block Chevy location. Many times that pump (much has been written about it on here) starts going and it leaks fuel back to the tank and results in the engine starting and then dying. Could be the problem or not, if you replace it do so with a GOOD OEM style, not an aftermarket will fit with lifetime warranty. This problem could also be an air leak in the fuel system that allows the fuel to leak back to the tank, bad hose/clamps/filter any and all could be at fault.

#3 Glow plugs, long crank time before starting could also be a result of faulty GP's
I encourage you to dig into the -20's and read and learn, nothing personal but if you have to pay a mechanic for everything on this truck you're going to go broke!

 

[Barrman]

I’ll just keep plugging my videos. here are the starters and brackets:

 

[87cr250r]

If you buy a lift pump you MUST buy a Delphi HFP906. The others look similar but they don't have the right arm on them.

 

[cucvmule]

Anytime I buy a vehicle the second item is a manual, maintenance and shop.

Video options are great, and I find myself using them more often but for new cars and trucks as the manufacturers think their cars are super secret state secrets and getting access to them is like a bank vault.

 

[khamill2000]

If you buy a lift pump you MUST buy a Delphi HFP906. The others look similar but they don't have the right arm on them.

May I ask what the difference is between the HFP906 and the MF0030? Rock Auto lists both for the 6.2.

 

[87cr250r]

It was discussed here recently.

My M1009 has died new curve ball thrown Updated

The top fuel pump is incorrect. The spring over the lever and the slight curve in the lever make it incorrect. It will fit on the CUCV perfectly but the eccentric on the engine does not depress the lever far enough to get fuel delivery. If you hold this pump in your hand and depress the lever it...

steelsoldiers.com

Rock Auto is in error to list the 0030 number as compatible.

 

[sneekyeye]

You want the one with the straight arm like the HFP906.