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M1009, missing mechanical fuel pump

baddy3

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Kuopio, Finland/Bosnia
Fuel pump or often refered to as fuel lift pump part # 41618 Rockauto.com, it's only $16.71. Of course, there are more expensive alternatives but I ordered this one and it worked just fine.....
 

RedneckMilenko

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Memphis/TN
That's what I was afraid of. I don't mind doing the work or putting the money in a good truck like this, but this is starting to get a bit over what I expected to put in it. I payed $3,000 for it and since have put around $2,000 in the truck. And I havn't even gotten tires, lift, radio, or even a liner in it yet. So far it's been pretty much all mechanical aside from the seat covers and steering wheel cover. But I'm gonna keep my head up, hopefuly after sorting out all the mechanical problems she'll be good as new and I can start working twords the astetic portions of it.
 

RedneckMilenko

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Memphis/TN
What is the proper way to prime the lines after replacing the mechanical fuel pump? I'm also going to be replacing the water seperator wile I'm at it but I don't want to prime it incorrectly and end up causing more issues.
 

RedneckMilenko

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Well the electric pump is working fine, it's just the lines leaking I'm having an issue with at the moment. I just figured it may be better to have the mechanical in there and Y the line so if it were to fail then I could just open 2 valves and close 2, flip a switch, , then I could replace the mechanical again if need be. Ether way I'm going to have to proime the line but could I just leave the valves open foir the electric, enguage it with the bleeder valve on the filter housing open, then clost the bleeder valve, disenguage the electric pump, close the valves to it, then open the valve for the mechanical pump? Or would thet still leave too much air in the system for the section of line the mechanical pump is running?
 

rickf

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Pemberton, N.J.
That is just too complicated. If it is leaking until you start it and then it stops leaking and starts smoking that would tell me that the pump can't keep up and the injection pump is sucking air. You have mentioned a water separator several times and these trucks did not come with a water separator originally so I am guessing there have been a lot of modifications made to this vehicle. unless you are talking about the filter on the firewall. First the smoke, White smoke is unburned fuel, as in when it is cold. blue smoke is oil and black smoke is excess fuel. The lines, if it is a rubber line then replace it, no questions, just replace it. Make sure all of the return lines on the injectors are good and that they are not kinked all the way back to the tank. Lastly, whoever said that if your injection pump is not bad yet plan on replacing it.......................... I have worked on these things both military and civilian plus marine for many, many years and the pumps easily go 200,000 miles with no issues as long as you run clean fuel through them. I had a couple of customers with Blazers with over 350,000 on them that ran perfect. Start trying to run waste motor oil and yea, you will be replacing pumps often.

Rick
 

RedneckMilenko

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It turns out I was wrong about the water seperator. I'm used to running across new diesels, this is my first one more than 6 years old. Thank you for the clarification. I know it's rather complicated but I was just wondering if it was do-able. I'd just like to have a back up just in case the mechanical pump fails again and I happen to be in th field. Could it be possible to run the mechanical and electric fuel pump on the same line? As long as I keep the electric off the fuel would still pump through it without a problem being pulled with the mechanical pump right?
 

rickf

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That is correct, the mechanical pump will pump right through the electric assuming the electric is not a gearotor type of pump. Even some of them are designed to pump through. Does it click or thump when it runs? If so you have no worries. If it does not try it anyway, you will not damage the mechanical pump if fuel does not go through it just will not move fuel and will build up five pounds of pressure. No big deal. The electric will also pull through the mechanical with no problem. You might want to replace your electric with a larger one though. There are good ones that are still small but are square and have the fittings at each end. Available at most parts stores.

Rick
 

RedneckMilenko

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When I have the pump enguaged it humms. I can her it in the cab when the truck isn't running. The electric pump also is mounted in the engine bay, not right off the tank like I see most every other one. When I replace the electric pump, should I relocate it further back?
 

rickf

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If it hums then it probably is a rotary vane style of pump and may or may not flow enough fuel through from the mechanical. In that case you may want to put in a bypass with valves and leave the electric. I still say from the symptoms that the pump may not be keeping up. The easiest way to tell is to get a gauge and put after the pump. Read the pressure before starting and after. If the pressure drops then the pump is bad or too small. As I said there are others out there fairly cheap. If you are putting in the original stock mechanical pump then leave the electric for priming purposes. Yes it is preferable to mount the electric pump close to the tank, withing reason. You want to be able to access it.

Rick
 

RedneckMilenko

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Memphis/TN
Thank you, I'll be looking into replacing it and still replacing the mechanical as well. I just changed the filter the other day and the electric made it a breeze. Thank you for your input, I should be doing this within the next week or 2. Working 60 hours a week with a young son makes it hard to have time for the 09 sometimes. Good thing I still have the Dodge and the S10. :driver:
 
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