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m1009 no start

hemi348

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Hey guys,

I have a m1009 that just started to act up. When the key is turned to run nothing happens, no glow plug cycle no nothing. When the key is turned to start again nothing happens no noise other then the ignition switch click. This all happened instantly after working fine for the day.

I tried connecting purple and red wire on the relay, starter spun with no start.
No fuses blown on the box. I have read the TM but it did not lead me anywhere helpful. It is a stock 24v setup.


- I have checked the ignition ground and battery ground; Are there any other grounds I should check?

- Is it common for the ignition switch to go bad on these trucks?

- I have heard the glow plug chip goes bad on cucvs, could that circuit effect this? (I doubt it was this, as it was running recently and a very hot texas day)

- The fuse box seems to be in very poor shape, Is there a replacement avaliable?


Any other suggestions that could help me solve the problem would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Eric
 
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hemi348

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I don't claim that this is the exact same issue but I had a similar problem once, it was some type of relay....see below thread:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/28167-yikes-what.html
once I removed the burned up relay she cranked right up.

Good Luck,
Dale
I am curious if everything in the start up process was effected by that blown relay? No lights come on the dash when the key is turned forward on mine and I cannot hear the glowplugs cycle. I am sorry for the dumb question but I am not around the vehicle right now.
 
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ABN173

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FT Bragg, NC
I am curious if everything in the start up process was effected by that blown relay? No lights come on the dash when the key is turned forward on mine and I cannot hear the glowplugs cycle. I am sorry for the dumb question buy I am not around the vehicle right now.
I never got a clear answer what the relay/resister does to be honest, I just know that my M1009 was running great then one day I went to start and there was a short zapping sound followed by a puff of smoke. After that when ever I tried to start it nothing at all would happen, I removed the resister altogether in an attempt to trouble-shoot, as soon as I removed it the truck cranked right up. I meant to replace it but a drunk kid came down my street and ran into my truck. I was about to PCS/move across the country so I just decided to sell the truck. I did mention to the new owner that he might want to look into replacing it. That resister has something to do with the start-up process perhaps even the glow-plugs. Again I don't know if your 1009 has the same problem or not but its easy enough to check within a few minutes.

Keep us posted,
Dale
 

hemi348

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I never got a clear answer what the relay/resister does to be honest, I just know that my M1009 was running great then one day I went to start and there was a short zapping sound followed by a puff of smoke. After that when ever I tried to start it nothing at all would happen, I removed the resister altogether in an attempt to trouble-shoot, as soon as I removed it the truck cranked right up. I meant to replace it but a drunk kid came down my street and ran into my truck. I was about to PCS/move across the country so I just decided to sell the truck. I did mention to the new owner that he might want to look into replacing it. That resister has something to do with the start-up process perhaps even the glow-plugs. Again I don't know if your 1009 has the same problem or not but its easy enough to check within a few minutes.

Keep us posted,
Dale
I will take a look at this resister and see if it is fried like yours. Unfortunatly I am not going to be able to work on the vehicle untill about a month and I am trying to get as many ideas as I can before I get back to it. Thank you very much for the post. I will get back to yall with the results when can I get to it.
 
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NDT

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Check all the battery post connections and also the ring terminals where the cables connect to the bus on the firewall. Sounds like a simple problem. The starter switch on the steering column is very rugged and would be way down on the list.
 

hemi348

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Check all the battery post connections and also the ring terminals where the cables connect to the bus on the firewall. Sounds like a simple problem. The starter switch on the steering column is very rugged and would be way down on the list.
Do you think the starter could still spin if there was a bad connection on one of those terminals? because the headlights and blinkers and such still work, it seems only things in the starting circuit have failed.
 

NDT

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Sorry bout that, if the starter cranks when you jump the start relay, it can be assumed the batteries and the cables are good. Sounds like you will have to poke around with a voltmeter until you find where the circuit is broken.

I just had the opposite problem, the ignition power stayed on after the key was turned off. The army had installed a jumper wire in the fuse box.
 

Crash_AF

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Colorado Springs, CO
Sounds like one of two things: starter switch or fusible link to the 12V side.

If you have a multimeter or test light, check for voltage at the 12V buss which is the diamond shaped terminal block above the master cylinder.

If there is no juice there, the fusible link from the batteries is probably blown. It's right next to the block on the red wire that runs across the top of the firewall.

Another quick check of that buss would be to turn the headlights on... if they come on, there is power at the buss, if they don't, that's most likely the problem.

Later,
Joe
 

bbqfan5909

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The headlites are currently working...come to think of it, the red wire across the firewall has been cut and taped back together (I wonder if there is a bad connection or something).
 

hemi348

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I found a picture of the fusebox diagram finally. It shows the ignition going off of the 20amp accessory. Is this where I should take my volt readings to see if electricity is entering the cab?
 

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bbqfan5909

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Is there any other relays on the steering column itself that typically go bad? It sucks that the vehicle is 300 miles away, but we would like to get every idea now because there is no internet access at our deer lease...
 

bbqfan5909

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At one time I charged the batteries without disconneting them...would this effect the problem we are having? It started right up countless times before hand, but could one batteries not working proberly be the problem of the dash lights and ignition not starting? The head lights do work so I am wondering if those are connected to a different battery?
 

hemi348

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Good news everyone!

We found the problem after some probing around under the hood. After checking the voltage at the terminal box we found that power was making it there. Looking down from there and the problem was plain as day. One of the wires was split in half, it looked like something had chewed it in half. After the simple reconnection it cranked right up.

I am glad however that I read up the problems about the starter relay sticking. Because that is what promptly happened after starting a few times. It is pretty intimidating to have a run away starter, fortunately I ripped the relay out before it spun for too long. Now we have to jump the relay to get it started. Looks like we will be ordering a new starter relay soon. :roll:

Thank you very much for all of your help,

Eric
 

mistaken1

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Good news indeed.

I installed a 35A SPST switch in line with the 24V power coming from the starter relay. If my starter relay sticks I can flip that switch off and cut the power going to the starter solenoid on the starter (I have tested it and it does indeed cut off the starter while cranking the motor).
 
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