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m1009 not starting when cold racking my brain trying to figure it out

nighttrain2006

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park forest ill
ok I have a 86 m1009. The truck will not start when COLD, It will just crank and crank away, once started a huge cloud of whitish gray smoke comes out form exhaust pipes. I have a block heater and that does not seem to help. I know starting fuild is bad, but i have had to use it to get the truck to start. With only one short spray of starting fuild the truck WILL START RIGHT UP. once truck is warm starts and runs great.

Ok a list of parts that are new, form trying to fix the problem. New fuel pump, glowplugs (Are still good just rechecked them), starter, Fuel filter, glow plug relay (on fire wall), glow plug control card, and new block heater. I have also checked the fuel lines and have found no air leaks in the system.
 

nighttrain2006

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park forest ill
also i have elminated the glow plug controll card and installed a push button glow plug igniter ,that did not help so i put a new glow plug controll card back in. i have been reading other posts and my problem is not the same
 

gaunt1969

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bessemer, al.
could be the injectors but also could be compression. pull the injectors and check them out, and while there out check the compression on each cylinder.

One other thing if you have not cleaned all your conections this would be the time to do so from batts to buss bars to resistors to gp relay and grounds. And while doing this check the resistance of the resistors. , you may have voltage but if the current is limited due to corrosion this would cause your problem and is where you should start first
 
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nighttrain2006

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park forest ill
The glow plugs are converted to 12volt, and voltage is good. pedal is all the way down.
How can u tell if the injectors are bad? and do u check the compession like a gasoline engine? what sould the compression be?
 

gaunt1969

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bessemer, al.
converted to 12 volts is a big reason why your haveing this issue. you would have been far better to have used a 24v glow plugs and bypassed the resistors. How cold is it getting to when your seeing no start issues
 

nighttrain2006

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park forest ill
Just converted th e plugs in order to bypass the resistor, how ever the plugs are 24volt plugs. Also i had the same starting problem before the conversion of the glow plugs. im in the midwest and today it was about 30 degrees and would not start. It seems to start a little better with the plug conversion, Im just using 12 volts to heat the glow plugs instead of 24volts now. Probly not the best idea ive had but it seems to be working and at least this way i can regulate the voltage to the plugs easyer
 

gaunt1969

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bessemer, al.
then I would start pulling the injectors. you should be able to find a place that can check them under pressure, I dont remember what the compression should be. I dont have access to my tech manual atm but its not to hard to find in it. If you have not done so download it. you can find them on the forum.
 

Somemedic

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Hobart, IN
I would bet youre getting power to only a few of the plugs. Confirm youre getting 12v to ALL plugs. Heavy white smoke and hard starting sound like unburned fuel; ie: plugs not getting hot enough. Starter working well? If its not getting enough juice to spin the motor fast enough it cant compress, generate the heat, and fire up. So that also means the batts have to be charged and working well. Another scenario is that you, too, have an air leak. Run a search and read read read... this is a very well covered situation that should yield multiple results using that handy dandy search function.

Park Forrest had one **** of a St Pats day parade. Ive played it on several occassions. Its a shame about the drunks ruining it. Band of Brothers Pipes and Drums
 

nighttrain2006

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park forest ill
Yes starter is brand new. i think i will buy two new batterys and they seem to run down pretty quick.
I also thought about a air leak, guess i will crawl around and look again.

How do u when the injector pump is working properly? U crank a injector to check the pump right?
 

91W350

Well-known member
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57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
If it runs that good once started and is just hard to start cold, I doubt it is your injectors. In all probability, it is not the pump either, unless you have a seal allowing air to get into the system.

My bet would be your glow plugs are not getting the job done for you or you have a fuel leakdown. Take brake cleaner and spray the base of your fuel filter so it is dry, then see if you can detect any leakdown, moisture the next day.

If you can get an assistant, open the bleeder valve at the top left of the fuel block to see if you have air in the filter. Have assistant crank the engine while you open the bleeder. It is a black plastic screw with a cross on top. The fuel should flow out the vent to the left almost immediately. If it spews bubbles, you have a leakdown problem.

My M1009 had two problems, the drain valve at the bottom of the fuel block was draining slightly and the check valve in the lift pump was not holding the prime. It would run great all day, then not start after sitting 12 hours. Slow down the cranking in the cold and it was done, the batteries would die before it would light up.

It has run perfectly since swapping the lift pump. I wa not aware of the lift pump holding the prime until I visited my local pump shop. He suggested I start with a new lift pump.

If you decide to swap the lift pump, it is a tough chore on these. There is a push rod that runs inside the block and drives the pump off of a lobe on the camshaft. That rod has to be in the up position when you install the new pump. If it is down, you will bend the rod and most likely ruin the new pump. The hole it sits in is not a pleasurable place to work. In front of the engine mount, behind the lower radiator hose and battery cable. There are also two fuel lines to contend with and a cup in the corner of the cross member.

If you pull your lift pump and the rod slides down, you will be pulling the fuel pump plate as well. On my first M1008 the lift pump was leaking and I changed it out. The block plate was not glued to the block, I removed the two lower bolts, cleaned everything up and it went back together fairly easy. Not the case with this M1009. Somebody had used that black hard gasket sealer to glue the plate gasket to the block. It took about three hours with a half dozen razor blades to scrape that crap off.

Other Chevrolet V8s have a set bolt in the block that you can remove and replace with a longer bolt. That is supposed to hold the pushrod in place. I have never used it though, I had a buddy crank one down too tight on a small block and got the rod stuck in the bore. We had to tear the engine down and drive it out.

If you remove that rod, use axle grease to hold it up in the bore while you replace the pump.

Before spending 300 dollars on an injection pump, I would try the 20ish dollar lift pump first.

Before doing anything with the pumps, I would try removing the air cleaner and misting some diesel into the intake with somebody cranking to rule out the glow plugs. It should fire and run off of the misted fuel, at least for a few seconds.

In my limited 6.2 experience... these engines go down to rod and crank damage long before they go down on compression, providing they have good air filters and have been serviced regularly. Glen
 
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stampy

Active member
1,321
22
38
Location
Henderson. NC
Do you have the square filter or did you put in a spin on fuel filter? A dirty filter can make it **** on cold starts. The spin on filter is so much better in my opinion.
 
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