M1009 Passenger Side Alt Connection

[pbrstreetgang]

Could someone please post here or email me pictures of how to correctly connect the wires to the passenger side alternator for an M1009.

I just had a rebuild done and when I get it installed and hooked up and try to hook up the battery, I get an arc, things get hot.

At one point smoke came out of the alt, so I hope I did not cook my brand new rebuild.

I am going by the correct hookup configuration, seems pretty hard to screw up.

 

[Warthog]

You will have 5 wires to hook up.

1. The two with the plastic connector that plugs into the alternator.
2. The small orange wire/fusable link for the diagnostic port that hooks to the +postive post
3. the large red wire that comes from the 24v terminal block, hooks to the +postive post
4. The large red wire w/white tracer that comes from the 12v terminal post hooks to the -ground post.

You should have the alternator tested again just to make sure you didn't fry it. Sounds like you switched the two red wires.

Also did they rebuilt the alternator and keep it as an "isolated ground". That is the case and the ground post are not connected.

Right click on the thumbnail and choose "Open Link in New Window" for a better view

 

[Alredneck]

Man, I was wondering the same question the other day. Thanks Warthog for the run down!

 

[pbrstreetgang]

I think they did keep it as an isolated ground as there is a small cylinder on the back (not present on the one in your picture) that has a black ground wire that also goes on the negative stud. The ring terminal ends for one is not big enought to go on the positive terminal stud so I can only assume that it is for the negative..

Also on the plastic plug, which side needs to be pos and which neg? Facing the alternator from the front of the truck, which side of this plug is + and which is -

 

[doghead]

4. The large red wire that comes from the 12v terminal post hooks to the -ground post.

Actually, red with white tracer.

 

[Warthog]

Actually, red with white tracer.

You are correct. I didn't look closely at the diagram.

I think they did keep it as an isolated ground as there is a small cylinder on the back (not present on the one in your picture) that has a black ground wire that also goes on the negative stud. The ring terminal ends for one is not big enought to go on the positive terminal stud so I can only assume that it is for the negative..

Also on the plastic plug, which side needs to be pos and which neg? Facing the alternator from the front of the truck, which side of this plug is + and which is -

The small cylinder should be the noise suppressor that is in the wiring diagram. Some trucks have it removed.

The alternator picture is from the NAPA website. I use it as a reference.

The red wire in the plug should be on the passenger side. I checked a truck and made sure. With the tab on the plug it will only plugin one way.

 

[pbrstreetgang]

"The red wire in the plug should be on the passenger side. I checked a truck and made sure. With the tab on the plug it will only plugin one way."

My plug was the original and broke during removal. I bought a new plug and had to use butt connectors to run new wires to the plug. One is brown and one is red. So the red + is on the left side tab and the brown - is on the right.

Do I need to hook the black wire - noise suppressor to the negative terminal with the red with white tracer wire?

What do I need to do if I hook up everything as noted here, as I did last night and I still get sparks, where do I look next?

Thanks for all of the help.

 

[Crash_AF]

Take a multimeter and check for continuity between the ground lug and the metal body of the alternator. Dollars to donuts the rebuliders did not make it isolated ground. 12V vehicles do not require an isolated ground and are grounded through the case and mounting hardware. If you didn't tell them that it needed to be isolated, there's a good chance that it isn't.

Later,
Joe

 

[Warthog]

"The red wire in the plug should be on the passenger side. I checked a truck and made sure. With the tab on the plug it will only plugin one way."

My plug was the original and broke during removal. I bought a new plug and had to use butt connectors to run new wires to the plug. One is brown and one is red. So the red + is on the left side tab and the brown - is on the right.

Do I need to hook the black wire - noise suppressor to the negative terminal with the red with white tracer wire?

What do I need to do if I hook up everything as noted here, as I did last night and I still get sparks, where do I look next?

Thanks for all of the help.

Was the eletrical system working correctly before the alternator quit working?

My bet is the rebuild was not don't correctly. Another possiblity is the suppersor is bad and causing a short. It is not needed unless you are running military radios.

 

[pbrstreetgang]

Yes and No, the truck had been serving as my daily driver since last august. In the last two months it had started to drain the batteries about once a week and would not start. Had the alts checked out (drivers side rebuilt in august 09) passenger side was over charging. Had it rebuilt to further isolate if not solve the issue with the electrical system. What does the suppressor do? Do I just leave the black wire off and unhooked?

 

[Warthog]

The supperssor is a capacitor. It helps reduce/eliminate the electrical noise that interfers with radios. Remember the old AM radios and the whine that would get louder when you accelerated? (you may not be old enough...but I am...LOL)

There are supperssors on the horn, wipers, heater...etc, any electrical motor that could interfer with the military radios.

Just remove the entire suppressor so there is no chance of it shorting somewhere it shouldn't.

 

[pbrstreetgang]

So no black wire?

 

[Warthog]

If the black wire you are asking about goes into the little silver cylinder, then yes, no black wire.

My M1009 doesnt have the black wire hooked up.

Is this black wire connected to anything else?

Anyway to post a picture of how your alternator is wired up and where the black wire is?

 

[pbrstreetgang]

Here is how I have them hooked up and still sparking

Removed the noise suppressor (silver cylinder w/black wire) per suggestion

 

[doghead]

The schematics in the -20 TM are very clearly labeled.

Your picture looks correctly connected on the positive and ground studs, I can't tell from your picture about the 2 prong plug.

I would look at the Schematics, they are extremely simple to see what you are asking.

When you say your alternators were checked/tested, that does not tell us what they did. They can test good on charging output, and still have a draw(bad diode trio is a common problem).

 

[pbrstreetgang]

You are right ,they are clear, very clear. I had my alternator completely rebuilt, and took it back and had it completely checked over again, and asked if he understood that it had an isolated ground, he did.

Still sparking hard

 

[pbrstreetgang]

Pulled the alt apart. Negative Terminal has fiber washer on the outside keeping off of frame, does not have fiber washer inside to keep from touching frame. I think this might be where the rebuild went south

 

[doghead]

If the ground stud has continuity to the alternator case, it will not work as the passenger side alternator. Sounds like it was reassembled it incorrectly. Apparently they did not test it to see if it still had an isolated ground.

 

[Warthog]

Pulled the alt apart. Negative Terminal has fiber washer on the outside keeping off of frame, does not have fiber washer inside to keep from touching frame. I think this might be where the rebuild went south

That would explain why the sparks where flying. A dirrect short from the battery to ground. Glad you found it. If the alternator is fried, I would make the shop replace it as it was their fault.

You are right ,they are clear, very clear. I had my alternator completely rebuilt, and took it back and had it completely checked over again, and asked if he understood that it had an isolated ground, he did.

Still sparking hard

Sounds like it time to find a new shop as this one clearly didn't understand the "Isolated Ground".

 

[pbrstreetgang]

Yeah, they did not, but then again, they probably don't get alot of these either. What is important is that I now understand the Isolated ground. Another week of cussing and posting but I now know how to fix one more thing on my CUCV. Reinstalled the alternator on my lunch break and drove big green back to work. Tomorrow fuel filter change.