M1009 passenger side alternator

[mistaken1]

The glow plug relay should have two large terminals. One is the feed (in a stock system it is coming from the resistor on the firewall). The other has the orange wires that feed the glow plugs.

When the truck is running and warm you should measure voltage on the feed wire but not the load wire (glow plug side). I do not have all of my pictures available.

 

[wiccantoy]

So you are saying the orange wire at the top u are indicating. So i should check the other orange wire on the bottom?

 

[mistaken1]

Both. What reading do you get on each?

 

[wiccantoy]

Ok when the wife gets home from work. I will start the truck and let it go for about 5 minutes and get readings on both top and bottom.

 

[mistaken1]

Does this help?

 

[wiccantoy]

Ok finally got a chance to check the gp relay. Red had 28-29v 2 side wires that I think were blue had 13-14v. Oranges was 0.02-0.05.

 

[wiccantoy]

All were done when the truck had warmed up

 

[mistaken1]

So when you put a load on the electrical system (lights and wipers) then the truck voltage meter drops and a relay starts chattering (buzzing like a door buzzer)?

Do the lights look dim when this happens? What voltage does each battery read when the truck meter is reading low?

 

[wiccantoy]

That would be correct. But sadly this time I failed to test all this with my meter. So I will make sure to try all of this tommorow.

 

[wiccantoy]

Ok checked it again with a load on it and top post was 26-27 sides were 12ish. She really didn't flip out with everything running this timi even had my light bar on when i was doing ite. Im wondering why some says it gives me problems and some nothing?

 

[mistaken1]

Is it the glow plug relay on the firewall chattering or the Gen 2 relay under the dash chattering?

Either way it sounds like a bad (loose or corroded) connection. Warthog always says to test your fusible links by pulling on the real hard. They can open but still look okay from the outside.

Also their could be a fusible link that partially opened that will read voltage fine (meters have are a very small load) but will cause a voltage drop as the load increases. In other words part of the power is used to operate things like lights and part of the power is used to heat the damaged fusible link or corroded connection so you end up with lights that are dim and wires that get hot (bad).

The wire that fried in your first post, was it the one feeding the diamond shaped bus?

 

[wiccantoy]

Yes the damaged area was the diamond area u speak about. The Gp relay is new and tight. I've felt the wires and nothing even got warm. Im at a loss. Im ready to do away with the fusible links

 

[mistaken1]

Intermittent issues are tough, you have to be a the right place at the right time to catch them.

Did you remove, clean and replace all the connections on 12V bus?

How did you repair the 12V feed wire?

 

[wiccantoy]

Intermittent issues are tough, you have to be a the right place at the right time to catch them.

Did you remove, clean and replace all the connections on 12V bus?

How did you repair the 12V feed wire?

I replaced the wire that burnt with another off a m1008 from a guy on here. He said it worked. I pulled hard as u said. And nothing is betting even a little warm. I got the volts to get low with everything on. And the light bar for plowing. With all the take downs and alleys.

 

[mistaken1]

Sounds like an alternator is not charging. It is also intermittent. It may be that when the alternator is tested it is good, when you put it back on the truck and run all the lights it is good. Come back a day later and run all the lights and the voltage drops low.

The next time you get the voltage to drop low measure the voltage from the positive to negative of each battery to see what you get.

 

[mistaken1]

Do both of the alternator lights come on when the key is on? Do they both go out when the truck is running? Does one come back on when the voltage drops ;ow?

 

[wiccantoy]

Yes they both come on. Yes they both shot off before I start the truck. When the volts get low neither one turns on.

 

[wiccantoy]

O been thinking and talking to a friend in the reserves. What about putting circuit breakers in place of the fusible links? He said there are some trucks that use alot of them??

 

[wiccantoy]

I thought about the shop testing the alternators. They do put them under a load. And its hooked to a machine that is like a EKG for a person that checks the internals of how well all is working.

 

[mistaken1]

Yes they both come on. Yes they both shot off before I start the truck. When the volts get low neither one turns on.

The alternator lights come on when the key is turned on but then go off again before the truck is running?