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M1009 - Problem removing rear axle.

IRWFO

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Hello all, here is the run down for my M1009. For a while now I felt that my back brakes were not grabbing right. Now that I had some free time I pulled the drums and found the passenger side full of gear oil. So I know the outer seal is bad. Here are my questions.

The passenger axle has in and out play of about an 1/8". No up and down play just in and out of the tube play. The drivers side has no play. Any off the top of your head why?

Second, following manual TM 9-2320-289-34 to remove the axle, I removed the lock screw. Now the manual leads me to believe that the pinion shaft should just fall out. Well mine doesn't. I even turned the diff so I could see the other side of the pinion shaft and took a few whacks with a dowel and hammer. No luck. It does move in and out about a 64th of an inch but will not slide out. Am I missing something?

Last thing to add. For the most part the diff was full of gear oil. I don't see any metal flakes anywhere or any gear wear on the ring and pinion.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks?
 

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BiggsChevys

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sometimes it will and sometimes it wont, the axles could be what is holding it in place....

try pulling both axles out as far as you can, stuff a block between the wheel cylinder and the back of the axle flange to hold it there.... I see that you already have the bolt out of the center pin....

my method is once the bolt is removed, rotate the carrier 190 degrees then hit the center pin.... if you move the pin too far, you will not be able to rotate the carrier.... the objective is only to start the pin moving, then rotate it back 180 degrees and grab the pin through the bolt hole.... this gives you something to pull from as well as being able to twist as you pull...

hope this helps...
 

bronconut

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silly question but did all of the retaining bolt come out it should be about 2 or 3 inches with a rounded end. those axles are c-clip axles and some in and out play is normal.
 

jimm1009

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You have to remove the center pin in order to push the axle shafts in far enough to remove the c-clips.

There is a retaining bolt that holds the center pin in place.

jimm1009
 

IRWFO

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You have to remove the center pin in order to push the axle shafts in far enough to remove the c-clips.

There is a retaining bolt that holds the center pin in place.

jimm1009
Jim, the center pin is what I am trying to remove. The manual calls it the Pinion Shaft.

I'm going to try what BiggsChevys said to do in the morning. Sucks because I was suppose to do a big parade Sunday. :-( Oh well.
 

BiggsChevys

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keep your head up....

once the pin is out its a quick and easy job.... could have it back together within an hour... and still make the parade.... :cool:
 

aebiv

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Also, IRWFO, I've used WD-40 to cut down the 80-90w grease/oil some to make that pin guy slide out easier. Give that a shot.

Anymore photos of your ride? Looks like you got a nice one :)
 

IRWFO

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OK, I found out the problem and I was told it is very common. The locking screw I removed is only half the size it should be. The other half is still in the Dif. They have a habit of breaking where the threads end and the non threaded area stars. My friend loaned me the Matco Tool Kit for just this type of repair. What you do is hand screw in a allen head bolt that is drilled through thee center. Then take the long 1/8" drill bit and using the allen head bolt as a guide drill into the broken part. You then remove the allen head bolt and use a small EZ-Out to extract the broken part.

Well it should be easy enough. I have to hit the GM Dealer for the replacement locking screw tomorrow. As soon as I get it I will let you know how it went.
 

bronconut

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alot of times you can use a small flat head screw driver or a pick and just turn out the rest of the pin. have had to do this many times, but that kit sounds cool.
 

doghead

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Great info, good luck.
 

IRWFO

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Long Island, NY
OK we are all done. Here is a photo of the broken bolt that holds the pin in next to a new one. My Chevy dealer had them in stock. The part # is 56196, it's called a screw and cost $4.30. The Matco kit is just what you see in the photo. The allen head bolt is drilled out so you can use it as a guide and it sent the drill right smack in the middle of the broken bolt. It took a while to get deep enough for the easy-out to catch. Just in case you collect part #'s the outer axle seal from Fed/Mog is 8835S and the Diff Cover Gasket from Felpro is 55028-1
 

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2deuce

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portland, oregon
I'm reviving this old thread because I have a similar problem. I need to change an axle seal and after removing the screw that holds the shaft it wouldn't move like the above poster. The screw is not broken is the difference. I hit it lightly to get it moving and it came out about 2 inches and stopped. The shaft will move about 1/4 inch in and out but no more. I don't see what could be holding it. I have yanked on this shaft, twisting, turning a long time, thinking this should slide out. It stops with a solid clunk, a very positive clunk, both going in and out. When I pulled the cover the pin/screw that holds the shaft in was loose and only had a thread or 2 left before it would fall out, so I think this rear was about to fail.

Any ideas what is going on in there? and my next step?

Thanks
 

2deuce

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Figured it out.... I jacked up only one side and that created the bind. Once I jacked up the other wheel the shaft came out. I hope my experience may benefit somebody else that reads this.
 
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