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M1009 Quad shock front end

cucvrus

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I have been installing quad shocks on the front axle of every M1009 that I have and had in the past. I have been slowed from the installation the last few years because of lack of parts. I think LMC makes one side but not the other. I think it makes a difference with the front end bounce off road. My son was at a U-Pull it and saw a quad shock on a K10 pick-up. He cut the rivets with the grinder and was charged $5. US for the set. WOW what a deal. View attachment 550849The 3/8" holes are already in the frames to mount these brackets. The bottom bolt is longer and has a spacer to keep the shocks apart. I use grade 8 bolts and the spa007.jpg006.jpg001.jpgcer. The shocks are available at any parts store. They are longer then the primary stock shock as pictured on my barn M1009. View attachment 550850View attachment 550851Easy update if you can find the brackets. I wanted to share this with you so you can look while you are out in the salvage yards. If you are interested. If not fair enough have a nice day.
 

cucvrus

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Helps when off road. And also when on rough roads. Helps support the heavy engine up front and deter and damper the bouncing effects that can occur on rough terrain areas. I can tell the differnce. It was a GM factory installed option on these vehicles when they were built.
 

danoscooter

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Bellevue Nebraska
Thanks cucvrus. Sounds like they should of put them on from the factory but I guess its all about the $. Sounds like something to look into for my m1009. Just looking to make it a mild off-road camping rig.
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
The 1 ton pick up trucks I am not aware of having the quad shock option from the factory back in the day. Only the 1/2 ton models. I could be wrong but I never seen one with them on. They do make kits to put quad shock on the 1 ton trucks but not factory that I am aware of.
 

SForce

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Cucvrus, you are a great asset to this site. You have a lot of practical experience that has proved beneficial to all of us. I'm constantly amazed at all your knowledge and ideas.
 

ssdvc

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CT
Awesome info Rick. I'll have to get some parts to do that when I get back. Question, does it help with road handling at all, aside from smoothing the bumps a bit more?
 

AECS

Member
305
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Location
Munford, TN
I think that will be complete when it is time to replace my shocks, that should make a huge difference in on and off road handling.
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I was at the upullit on Saturday. I scored another set of Quad Shock mounts for the M1009 and decided today was a good day to install them.001.jpg003.jpg004.jpg005.jpg006.jpg007.jpg010.jpg008.jpg009.jpgThe rear battery and battery tray were removed to access the inner fender apron. I know my aprons are patched but they are still strong and support the batteries fine. I patched them 6 years ago and they are still holding up well. I kept the new ones in my warehouse till these fail. Anyway I trim the area on the right inner fender. It is clearly outlined it the metal where to trim. And just pull the rubber fillers back 2 push pins. Bolt the brackets to the frame in the holes that are there. I used 3/8" X 1" grade 8 bolts and nylok nuts. I used grade 8 1/2" bolts for the upper shock mount and the long lower shock mount. The right side of this M1009 has frame damage from a fork of a loader going in thru the wheel well and lifting the truck by the starter and breaking the starter off of the engine. it was DRMOed for that damage back in 1997. Also the right bump stop was so twisted it would not allow the spring to move. I removed it and have be driving it for 10 years and 100K miles. It worked fine all the time. Anyway this is an easy upgrade to the front shocks. And took about 1 hour to install. On the right side I did remove a clamp from the frame mounted fuel line and just moved the fuel line up out of way. Keep your eyes open a salvage yards they are on Suburbans a lot and on any 4WD older GM trucks and Blazers. Easy Easy. You just need a cordless grinder to cut the rivets at the upullit. Or pay $20. and the yard guy will cut them off for you. I opted to cut them myself. My Son did it. I paid $5. at the exit for the brackets with the bolts and spacers. I threw the bolts away at the shop and added new ones.
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I wanted to post more pictures of the Quad shock installation. It is easy.010.jpg020.jpg019.jpg018.jpg017.jpg016.jpg015.jpg014.jpg013.jpg012.jpg011.jpg021.jpgAnd while I was under there I thought why not change the motor mounts. That is easy also. I did not use the old bolts over. I replaced them with new grade 8 bolts 3/8" a 1" with grade 8 nylock nuts and flat washers. Easier with the new fasteners. Bounced all the old fasteners into the scrap steel hopper from the shocks and the motor mounts. I done all the motor mount job with hand tools not power tools. The shocks I used the Snap-On cordless impact. What an awesome tool that is. What would I do with out it? Bleed and cuss. Picture 5 shows a HD ground cable I added from the frame to the engine. I have one from the body to the frame also. I have the nice HD ground cables so I thought why not use them. It helps keep everything well grounded.
 
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NDT

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Camp Wood/LC, TX
You bring up an interesting point. I always try to use the OEM GM fasteners during reassembly. You seem to be advocating replacement with Grade 8. Is one better than the other? I know if you were restoring a 69 Z-28, people would kill you.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I am not restoring these vehicles at this point in time. I am keeping it fit, functional. useable and reliable. I use new fasteners at every chance I get. I do not like cranking rusty bolts. I toss the old bolts. These old bolts could have been cleaned up and reused. I tossed them in the scrap steel bucket. Maybe I should be saving them and I could sit at a swap meet 20 years from now and sell them in baggys as OEM motor mount bolts. No I don't see that happening. These are the same bolts that are on every GM car an truck out there in this year and many years after and before. I have a lot of parts vehicles for guys that are fussy about fasteners. I am not fussy. I build it to use and fix things as they go wrong. Dented fenders add character and rust is forbidden. I cut rust the offending rust area out and patch with heavy rivets and new steel or galvaneal. It gives it more character and the proper patina. I have many new parts if I wanted to restore my vehicles. But I have lost interest in the perfection side oif the hobby. I just like reliability and usefulness. No trailer / garage queens in my fleet.
 
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