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M1009 Rear glass replacement...

militaro

Member
48
0
6
Location
St-Jérome,Québec, Canada
Hi, Did some body already remove the rear glass to change it by a 2 shocks pull-up window like a pick-up fiberglass cover?

I think it will be a lot more user friendly?

I figuring at removing the glass and to replace the rear top seal by a steel channel, bolt on 2 shocks and a plexi window.

Should I also put a pick-up tailgate instead, to save on the door weight?

Thank's every body!
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
942
690
93
Location
Rochester NY
How are you planning on mounting the top hinges? Next question , how is the glass (or plexi) going to seal to the gate?
If you take a look at the window it slides up in a channel thats inside the fiber top (IIRC)
A pick up gate mounts on the sides down low, 1009 mounts from underneth.
Thats a lot to modify, not saying it can't be done But I wouldn't do it and I've got 20 yrs auto body exp.
 

jw4x4

Active member
1,082
5
38
Location
Dayton, Ohio
As for installing a pickup tailgate, the holes are already there in the body to accept the mounting brackets. I think it would be an easy swap. I purchased a pickup tailgate (along with all brackets) awhile back with the intention of using it when the top was removed on my 1009. Idea was to avoid breaking the rear window (which does not roll down fully into the tailgate). I never did try to install it. I would not be utilizing any rear window when the top is removed.

The difficult part would be mounting the plexi rear window to the fiberglass top.
 

militaro

Member
48
0
6
Location
St-Jérome,Québec, Canada
I will probably replace de seal by a "L" shape steel brace and add the same seal as the blazer front door, the hinges would probably be install like on the Jeep hard top, for the tailgate I can keep the original one but it's a lot heavier then the pick-up so I still have to decide?

I know it will be tricky but instead of bringing my trailer all around, I will be able to use my Back gate Blazer, 10sec. opening instead of 5 min.

It's still in the project stage...
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
4,166
393
83
Location
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Yes the tailgates can be swapped no biggie. The glass on the other hand is a different story, I have been looking at the hinges on a jeep for just this in fact all the hardware looks to be what's needed just bigger glass and longer seals. If someone gets this done post up a lot of pictures.
 

shopteacher

New member
11
0
0
Location
Pryor, OK
I have thought about it and Plexi-glass would be easiest. The plus of plexi is you can cut, drill and sand it. Down side is it is expensive by the time you add shipping for a 4' x 8' sheet. You can buy windshield adhesive and possibly glue hinges and strust on the stock tailgate glass.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Easy fix. Get a front tarp wall from a torn M1008 bed cover or go on Ebay and buy a HMMWV rear tarp. Take it to a tarp shop and have them velcro the tarp to the top on the top side. Take the rest and put snaps and velcro on the sides and bottom. Sounds easy enough. And I got news for you. The Blazer tailgate may be heavier weight wise. But the pick up tailgate is much more durable and easier to operate. That Blazer gate is a big hollow shell and is very weak with the poor cable system that they have used on them and they crack at the welds and twist and depend o the wedge jam design to close them tightly. Convert it to a pick up gate and use the tarp. The plexi glass will look like you know what. It will leak and never look right.
 
360
4
18
Location
southern ca
I love the tailgate idea. Lighter and I guess stronger. The tarp or plexi however makes me less than enthusiastic. I think the tarp with the clear vinyl would be easier and cleaner. But I just rebuilt my tailgate, redid everything to include handle and re lined the glass track inside the tailgate with felt. It opens and closes easily cranks nicely etc. I do however suffer from a super heavy tailgate and the release handle inside is silly. It's got to be pulled pretty hard to un latch. So I'm following this to see where it goes.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Colonel that is an easy fix. Take the cover off the inside of the rear gate and remove the inside handle. Stack 1/4" flat washers on the rod from the inside handle that activates the latch mechanism. Put as many as you want on to achieve the pull that you are comfortable with. This takes up the space that you are pulling your guts out to get the rod to push far enough to unlatch. It is probably stretched from years of mis use and abuse. You may push in on the gate while opening that helps releive some of the pressure on the latches. While you are in there give everything a squirt of some 30 w oil. I hope that helps and I didn't break any rules telling you that.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
But rememeber to tell him the adjusting bolt is reverse thread. Do not over tighten or turn it the wrong way. It is 7/16" head 1/4" reverse thread. I think he is having issue with how hard he must pull the latch to get it to get the gate to unlatch. Lefty tighty righty loosey. Opposite of the norm.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I love the tailgate idea. Lighter and I guess stronger. The tarp or plexi however makes me less than enthusiastic. I think the tarp with the clear vinyl would be easier and cleaner. But I just rebuilt my tailgate, redid everything to include handle and re lined the glass track inside the tailgate with felt. It opens and closes easily cranks nicely etc. I do however suffer from a super heavy tailgate and the release handle inside is silly. It's got to be pulled pretty hard to un latch. So I'm following this to see where it goes.
Another point I would like to make is the hinges on the bottom of the gate. I would bet if you were to take them off 1 at a time and put them in a vise you would be hard pressed to open and close the hinge. They are tight. I remove the hinges 1 at a time and use a support and a ratchet strap to hold the gate up on place. And put the frozen stubborn hinge in the vise and heat the center section of the hinge area. Get it good and hot and work it back and forth oiling it as you go. It is a bit smokey but it will help loosen the frozen stubborn pin in the hinge pivot point. When you are completed the hinge should open and close by its own weight and be free and none binding. It will make the entire opening and closing of the gate 95% easier. Do both sides and see the results. Just spraying them withe WD or PB is wasting your time and oiling them does not do the job. Anther option heat them up while they are on the truck. I prefer the first because you can clean them sand them and paint them while they are off and make them look pretty. I have drilled one set and put a grease zerk on it. That worked but took very little grease and was more trouble then it was worth.
 
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