m1009 roof sealant.

[hoplite666]

After a great summer with the top of its about time to reinstall it. I read on here once, but can't seem to find the thread, about the various roofing caulks and or types of sealant used when you re install your top. Some sort of asphalt or butyl based product that never fully hardens. What do you guys use? Suggestions are appreciated
Liam

 

[lostintexas]

I don't use anything on the bed rails but where it comes in contact with the cab I'm still using the old gasket and no leaks so far. There are several places that offer replacement cab seals. For my old CJ I've been using some of the Lowe's weather stripping tape for around windows and doors. It lasts through the winter and needs replacement every year.

 

[hoplite666]

I figured I could probably get by with out anything, however the bottom corners, where the top meets the cab had some sort of soft putty/sealant which broke away when I removed the top. Other than that the seals are great

 

[cucvrus]

Just put the top back on the rails and slide it front. Most tops leaked slightly from new. They never were 100% water proof. You can always use urethane chaulk and that will seal it. But when you go to remove it forget it. It will break the fiberglass and bent the metal before it releases. I have people tell me the top leaks and they want it fixed. I give them the option of sealing it permantently no leak urethane seal or doing guess work as to where the leak is coming from. Most chose the permanent seal. Some of the leaks are coming thru rusted areas in the upper cab roof. That you must remove the roof and do what ever you need to do to seal it. Most times when the cab flange is rusty you are going to get real deep into it and are better of just living with it or doing the permanent seal. Unless you are a handy body man or have deep pockets to pay someone else to fix it right. I do more restiques these days then restorations. It makes me and the customer happy. Function with out perfection. You know park it in the parking lot and walk away without worry of someone banging your doors. Or scratching it.

 

[hoplite666]

So did these trucks not have any sort of gummy sealant applied along the bottom corners, where the top meets the cab when new? If that's the case I suppose at some point in the past the army took the top off and applied it.

 

[cucvrus]

They did have some strip caulk at the front corners. I never saw one of these M1009's in the USMC / Army military with the roof off being driven around. That was a NO NO. I do know that you can buy strip caulk (dumb dumb) as they call it and put it in tight areas and it will conform to uneven surfaces and seal such as the front roof / bed side flange and seal any inperfections. As a rule the strip caulk I am referring to remains plyable and will only get semi hard and brittle with age. I think that is the case with your M1009. Any body shop supply store has this strip caulk.www.3m.com/product/information/Strip-Caulk.html

 

[richingalveston]

I used the LMC gaskets and have not had a leak yet. To help keep the seam on the roof from holding water, I put clear silicone in the crack.
The stock gaskets work as long as your metal is good. I had two holes that I ground out and braised up with a torch prior to the repaint.

Most of the holes come from water sitting in the weather strip gap and rusting through. I have had two 1009's both I put new LMC weather strip on the cab and mine never leaked.
In the corners you can use any silicone caulk or even RTV. Both my 1009's had the caulk in the corners where the bed weather strip meets the cab weather strip. The caulk was installed only in the corner where the two weather strips meet, water will work its way in in this corner without it.

 

[hoplite666]

Great, thanks.
I'll probably just end up getting a new gasket seam from lmc and use some silicone in the corners. Better safe than sorry.