M1009 Startup Issues

[DaGlitch]

To start, im new here and have searched around here for the answers before comin here even in the TM. Anywho i uploaded a video to youtube explaining a couple of things i have concerns with. This all started when my brilliant friend put the trucks batteries in parallel vs series. I walked back to the truck to see a little bit of smoke come from the 12v terminal near the glow plug relay, and somewhere else i cant remember. I quickly disconnected the batteries and began to take a look at the collateral damage.

A couple things i have noticed are:
1.) the Gen1 light doesn't come on when the key is in the run position (This still happened before the installation of the batteries issue),
2.) there are a couple of wires i found laying around while bolting stuff back together that i cant find where they go,
3.) when i went to take a look at it and the owner showed me that it started, the glow plug relay doesn't click on and off a bunch any more (the wait light goes off and then ~10 seconds later i hear a click, but doesn't cycle multiple times.).
3a.) i measured the voltage on the relay according to the TM specs. The Orange wire had 12.31 volts, and the pink/black and light blue had about 14ohms at the glow plug relay. other than that it was pretty hard to decern colors of the wires on my truck.


I just purchased this vehicle and the previous owner told me everything that he knew was wrong. He replaced the head on the motor, and never finished the last touches (has alot of toys he works on), so i bought it off of him to finish it up and possibly use it as my daily. The motor ran before it previously developed a little crack in the head that was replaced. He started it when jumped by 2 cars about 9 months ago. This guy is a very trust worthy individual, so that isn't an issue about incorrect installation or claims. There was only one alternator [gen2] bolted on and no gen1 or power steering pump. i have bolted these back on and currently sit where i am now. I have also replaced the fuel pump thingy (forgot correct name haha) that sits on top of the head. The previous one's shaft would not spin at all, so i replaced it with a new guy.

Well i hope it's alright to ask a bunch of questions in a single post . Any help is greatly appreciated guys, n i hope to get this M1009 on the road where it should be .

Video:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3v_Y-GYZA4[/media]
Images:
http://getglitched.com/images/M1009/IMG_0279.JPG
http://getglitched.com/images/M1009/IMG_0281.JPG
http://getglitched.com/images/M1009/IMG_0282.JPG
http://getglitched.com/images/M1009/IMG_0286.JPG
http://getglitched.com/images/M1009/IMG_0287.JPG
http://getglitched.com/images/M1009/IMG_0290.JPG
http://getglitched.com/images/M1009/IMG_0295.JPG

 

[mangus580]

The first green wire you show up by the injection pump is for the high idle solenoid on the right side of the IP.

The second one, is for your temperature light. There should be a probe on the very front of the head that it will plug onto.

 

[ralbelt]

you have another set of guages mounted under your dash. and you have a black wire running outside the wire harness to the probe than Mangus is refering to for the temp that is mostlikely running back to the guages. That second wire has been eliminated.

 

[DaGlitch]

Ah gotcha! did some more lookin around today and got a fresh set of 6TL batts. mucho thanks on the info mangus. Yea, ralbelt those gauges down there give me oil pressure and water temp. Also finally got the motor to roar! yay! My gen1 is def dead. threw a multimeter on it while the motor was runnin and only saw about .3volts comin out of it haha. gen 2 had about 25 something volts. I also drained and flushed all the fuel lines as there was some unknown substance in there. The previous owner had a veggi setup that i removed.

A few more new problems. i have a slight leak of coolant at the back left of the block. This also disappears when the motor is all warmed up (guy forgot to seal something properly?). My voltmeter is also just above the red in the yellow. I am guessin that this is from the bum alternator 1. still missing a lot of parts that goin in the engine bay. Looks like a big run to the junkyard is in store. Thanks for your help guys, and i also must thank the TM -20 manual for all of it's wiring goodness.

Edit: oh yea... When i have the tranny in DRIVE, it doesn't seem to want to shift out of 1st. i can manually put it in 1st, then to 2nd just fine. Would this be the cause of dirty tranny fluid?

Edit2: Took a look at the TM haha and will follow indicated troubleshooting directions and let you all know my findings.

51. WILL NOT SHIFT PROPERLY
Step 1. Check transmission fluid indicator for proper reading. (See TM 9-2320-289-10)
Inspect vacuum hoses, vacuum pump, and vacuum regulator valve for improper
Step 2.
connection, leakage, or damage.
Connect or replace vacuum hoses and vacuum pump as required. (See
paragraphs 3-21 and 3-7) Adjust vacuum regulator valve. (See paragraph
3-21.1)
Inspect vacuum modulator (right side of transmission near base of transmission fill
Step 3.
tube) for leakage and damage.
Tighten mounting bolt to 20 Ib.-ft. (27 N•m). Notify your supervisor if damaged
or still leaking.

 

[motormayhem]

Most transmission problems are vacuum related. I also noticed that you oil pressure light didn't come on when the key was on. It might be because your other oil pressure gauge has eliminated it, but just a fyi. It is the top right one above gen2.

 

[msoumas]

For the transmission problem, check the vacuum lines coming off the left side of the IP. Mine were both pretty rotted, and when I moved them in the process of changing the pump, one cracked pretty badly and the other tore right off. I took her out for a test drive, and no 2nd gear! Also check the little bracket that holds the two together before they go on, I bypassed that and just put the lines directly on, since it was also pretty beat.

 

[DaGlitch]

Most transmission problems are vacuum related. I also noticed that you oil pressure light didn't come on when the key was on. It might be because your other oil pressure gauge has eliminated it, but just a fyi. It is the top right one above gen2.

Yea, my oil pressure guage has replaced it.

For the transmission problem, check the vacuum lines coming off the left side of the IP. Mine were both pretty rotted, and when I moved them in the process of changing the pump, one cracked pretty badly and the other tore right off. I took her out for a test drive, and no 2nd gear! Also check the little bracket that holds the two together before they go on, I bypassed that and just put the lines directly on, since it was also pretty beat.

I'll pull the vacuum lines lines n replace them when i get a chance. Do you know how that black sensor on the left of the IP is suppose to set? i looked in the TM and noticed it said "dont fully tighten". I am guessing that this is because it is plastic. But, do you know the proper setting for that guy?


Also, it looks like my Gen1 alternator needs a rebuild. Also the radiator fan hit the plastic shroud around it and threw some plastic through the radiator . So i just ended up JB welding all the holes and it seems fine. I think i am going to switch to some electric fans . Jus thought i would give ya'll an update.

 

[mangus580]

Dont switch to electric fans. You will have a hard time keeping the 6.2 cool with them.

 

[DaGlitch]

hmmm really?. What about if i dont have the fan shroud? would the cooling be sufficient enough? It got pretty eattin up when the fan hit it n threw pieces through my radiator.

 

[mangus580]

You really should locate a fan shroud for it too.

I have heard of people using just electric fans.... but most of the ones I hear about end in failure.