• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

M1009 Tailgate Latch Repair?

ikanode

New member
7
0
0
Location
Lenoir, NC
I can't tell what components I need to complete my 1985 M1009 tailgate repair. (All part numbers reference LMCTruck catalog page 44.)


I bought the Tailgate handle w/o Lock 38-6678, Lock Cylinder 36-0859 Pawl 360781, Spring 30-3177. I took these to a locksmith and was disappointed that the cylinder can't be keyed to match the ignition key. The locksmith didn't even have a blank to make an extra copy of the LMC keys.


Attached is a photo of my assembly after the cylinder, pawl, and spring have been installed. It didn't look that hard to do. As far as I could tell, he:
• found the cylinder rotation that allowed the cylinder to slide in and out and held it about half-in/half-out.
• inserted the spring and pawl
• fully inserted the cylinder and then rotated it


At a minimum, the above instructions will get you close.

IMG_2211.jpg




Looking at the photos below how many more parts do I need to buy? Do I need a clutch or is the clutch already attached? Do I need:
• Clutch #360782 $20
• Ring #36-0783 $5
• Nut-handle #30-0868 $0.65
IMG_2214.jpgIMG_2215.jpg



Are the bolt and nut sticking out from the tailgate the stock components? What parts do I need to repair what's visible in the view of the tailgate? I don't understand how the handle assembly couples to the visible tailgate parts.


The threads on the bolt sticking out form the tailgate has damaged threads. Is that the:
• Screw-Latch Control $25 (or is it a temporary fix that someone added.)
• What's the rusted part under the star lock washer? Does it need replaced?


Thanks,
Irv
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
I can get you some pics of mine today, looks like you have the electric version of the handle and lock not the manual. cant really tell from the bottom side of the pics. on the tailgate picture, you are missing a part, It is the part that the handle engages. I will have to show some pics so that you can see what you are missing. It is hard for me to describe the part.
I can show some pics tonight if no one else has helped by then.
 

M1031CMT

New member
356
12
0
Location
Ontario
Looks like whatever is left in the tailgate is not stock. Didn't take a picture of what my tailgate looked like without the latch, but it didn't look like that. It had a part that the clutch fits into. Not that rod.

Just replaced the handle assembly on the M1009 here. This is what it looks like removed.

2012-12-14_09-41-26_164.jpg
2012-12-14_09-41-18_525.jpg

You are at the very least missing the clutch piece from the handle as well as different internals in the tailgate.
 
Last edited:

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
looking at the LMC catalog, yes you need the clutch, snap ring, and nut handle. I beleive the nut handle is the piece that goes on the threads that is sticking out of the tailgate part. The clutch grooves fit into the nut handle. no pic of nut handle in lmc catalog. after looking at the electric ones, I beleive you do have the manual, You would know by looking at the other side, it flips open and makes the crank. So at this point, It looks like you have all you need but the last three parts
 

ikanode

New member
7
0
0
Location
Lenoir, NC
Thanks for the replies. A picture of what the tailgate well should look like would be helpful.

I definitely have the manual version since it has the crank.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
sorry I did not get those pics today, I will get them tomorrow. I am fairly certain you need the last three parts. the clutch and snap ring go on the back of the handle and the nut handle goes on the tailgate piece with the threads.
Sorry for the delay.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
I could not get the pics, I have a scrap tailgate that I thought had the pics you needed but the regulator was not in it. i am pretty sure what you need is actually on the back of the regulator. I have attached the diagrams from 'TM9-2320-289-34 parts breakdown'. It does not show the back side of the regulator but I beleive it sticks out the hole where the handle bolts into. Yours has been modified so someone could roll the window down with a ratchet and socket. I think the bad news is that you will have to get a new regulator but the good news is they are still available. Sorry for not getting pics of mine, I would have to remove the glass and pull the regulator to get a pic of the back or to remove the handle to get a pic from the outside.
I am not sure what they are calling the nut handle and if you need it or not but you definately need the clutch and snap ring
 

Attachments

ikanode

New member
7
0
0
Location
Lenoir, NC
Do I need a whole new regulator or just what LMC calls the Screw-Latch Control. It's item 24 http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/full.aspx?Page=44
It's a $25 bolt so it must be "special".

On the LMC diagram it looks like it goes through the center of the regulator and sticks out the other side. As far as I can see, the military manuals don't show this part at all. I didn't want to expose the regulator until I had all the parts but maybe I'll have to and see what's actually there.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
That bolt is on the inner handle assembly and not on the regulator. the inner assembly and outer assembly are completely seperate because the glass slides up and down between them. I think your best option is to go ahead and take yours appart so that you know what you are working with. If you are carefull, you do not have to completely remove the glass. lower the tailgate. roll the window out with some saw horses and cussions to hold the glass. you have to disconnect the glass from the regulator when the glass is about half way out.
If your glass weatherstrip is in good shape, you can save it by not removing the glass completely. To remove the glass you have to take the weatherstrip off and it normally gets trashed in the process of removal. If you need new weatherstrip, this is the time to replace that also.
If you can get it appart, you will probably know what you need to fix it. If not, put some pics of what you have and the SS crowd can get you pointed in the right direction.

IF someone here has a spare regulator, maybe they can post pics of both sides of it so you can see what is needed. I have one somewhere in my barn but was not able to locate it for pics.
 

edpdx

Active member
792
73
28
Location
Oregon
OP, what exactly is the problem that you are trying to fix? Window won't go up/down. Handle crank turns- window goes nowhere? Key can't lock/unlock?

If the glass is giving you a problem and won't go up or down anymore. The problem maybe the teeth that drive the regulator gearing. A new regulator will be the fix. Clutches can burn out; but they are usually a symptom of gears not meshing, channels and sweeps deteriorated causing strain/wear on the clutch and gears

There are some good threads that address this issue on the M1009.

Reline the channels on either end of the window using your own felt, get some new sweeps to keep the water out and replace the regulator ($ 125.00 +/-). Lube everything.
 

ikanode

New member
7
0
0
Location
Lenoir, NC
OP, what exactly is the problem that you are trying to fix? Window won't go up/down. Handle crank turns- window goes nowhere? Key can't lock/unlock?
The tailgate handle was missing when I bought the M1009 but the previous owner had bought a replacement but no other parts. The window was closed by lifting and the pushing up the glass and sticking a cotter pin in to hold it up. I probably won't know if the regulator is bad until I start putting it back together.

Since no one has pictures, I'll take and post some.

Thanks,
Irv
 

ikanode

New member
7
0
0
Location
Lenoir, NC
Based on earlier feedback, I purchased and installed the clutch on the crank assembly (first photo). However, it didn't engage with the regulator hardware shown in the second photo. (I made sure the crank was unlocked.) I don't see how the clutch is supposed to engage the pinion gear assembly. Do I have missing or broken parts? (See photo 3.)

I then removed the regulator and took apart the gear assembly.

Crank Assembly.jpgtailgate.jpgGear.jpgGear on Clutch.jpg
• The first photo shows the assembled crank.
• The second photo shows the regulator pinion gear assembly from the outside.
• The third photo shows the pinion gear and bolt and a semi-circle that may be broken but I don't see how it would mate with the clutch even if a full circle.
• The fourth photo shows the semi-circle laid into the clutch of the crank assembly. It kind of fits but is off center.



There's either a part missing here or I'm not understanding how this is supposed to work.


Thanks,
Irv
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
your pinion gear on the regulator is broken and has been modified. Instead of a nut and bolt, the back of it had what would resemble a fat wing nut. this fat wingnut is the mirror image of the clutch. I believe a new regulator (maunul regulator not electric, they are different) is what will be needed to fix your problem. I am not aware of any place you can purchase the pinion gear without buying the entire regulator. It is possible that someone may have a bad regulator with bad gears and good pinion, you could make two bad regulators into one.
 

ikanode

New member
7
0
0
Location
Lenoir, NC
I bought a new regulator from LMC Truck. Attached are photos as references for the next person going down this path. Thanks to everyone that helped me!

Regulator gear side.jpgRegulator other side.jpgRegulator closeup.jpgRegulator from outside.jpg
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks