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M1009 Tire fitment

hoplite666

Member
153
1
18
Location
Fairfax VA
It seems to me that there is no conclusive "hit or fit" guide out there for those of us with the 1009. I've seen everything from 33x10.50's (what I run) to 33x12.50's, even the occasional 35x12.50 fiting on a totally stock suspension. I suppose it all depends on how tired and saggy your springs are.
Anyways, I spent my Saturday night fishing out a Jeep and and f150 that some kids had gotten stuck on some local powerline trails. Don't get me wrong, I love my Bfg a/t's but there comes a time when a genuine mud tire is needed. Such a tire would have made those extractions much easier. ...here's the thing. I just so happen to have a set of 35x12.50r15 Bfg mud terrain km2's on my Ranger wich basically sits on the side of the house.
I work in a tire shop so swapping everything out isn't gonna cost me anything.
I don't wheel the 1009 hard nor really need a mud terrain but I figured I may put them on just to see how they feel/fit. I wouldn't be leaving them on long term so spare me the lectures on u joints etc.
What do y'all think?
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
My personal opinion after many years of wheeling, with a general purpose rig I would not chase tire size. If you need extra traction, a set of chains works best for the rare time you need it. The smaller tire works best for economy, mileage, and wear/tear on driveline. Since you are on an M1009 two of the top most reasons to stay away would be 10 bolt strength and gearing unless you swapped out for something stronger. The other M series make sense due to the 4.56 gears plus the 1 tons can take the extra tire diameter without question.

I've had a few rockcrawlers and chased tire sizes up to 37's and eventually found out that on a machine you want to run on the street, you are better off with something smaller, more manageable, and can actually steer without hydro assist or cutting up firewalls. Obviously if you are more geared for offroad driving, then you must get something more aggressive to suit the need.

AT's with chains are just as unstoppable if not better at everything (except rocks) than a super swamper. Plus you have the extra traction in snow/ice that no tire unchained can match.

All of this knowledge gained watching a pretty much stock Land Rover Discovery chase the big dollar 37" D90's up obstacles. Chains, momentum, and proper throttle kill a super swamper hands down.

I'm sure others may have other approaches though...
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
Since it's a no cost option, wedge them on there and check it out for yourself. I run BFG Mud Terrains (255/85R16) on my ambulance and I'm going to switch over all of my CUCVs to them. They aren't cheap and I'm fretting buying 12 more but they are that nice!
 

phil2968

Active member
2,591
18
38
Location
Lakeland, Florida
... I run BFG Mud Terrains (255/85R16) on my ambulance and I'm going to switch over all of my CUCVs to them....
Street trucks all of them!
Besides Herman's deuce and a horse I was the only one in the mud at Mikes! I even got stuck!
On 31x10:50's! uploadfromtaptalk1398206388204.jpguploadfromtaptalk1398206433925.jpg
I still have some biological debris left over from Feb!
 
Last edited:

M1009 NEWBEE 2013

New member
164
0
0
Location
Colorado
I run BFG 32x10.5 T/A M/T KM2 on my 009 and love them. For a 100% street machine A/T may be the proper choice but they do ok on the road (just drove 900 miles round trip no issues with noise but I have sound mat, flooring and hood insulation) and great in the winter and for the minimal off-loading I do actually do, they are awesome. Work really good at the various lakes, we camp at in the summer, in the simulated sand they use at the various lakes. It's all about your needs, preference and what you are willing to sacrifice as far as ride and noise. Go for it!
 

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,836
987
113
Location
Paris KY
You can run 9.00/16 NDT on a M1009 with no lift or chassis modification, and enjoy outstanding traction and fuel economy. I ran this tire/wheel setup on a brand new 1983 K10 pickup for over a year with excellent results. The NDT tread gets an unfair bad rap (in my opinion) in today's tire and tread discussions, however World War II was won with this tread design. No other tread cleans itself like NDT. 4WD enthusiasts either love or hate this tread design. I personally love it. You will not need chains. In 1985, I purchased a brand new '85 K30 SRW truck and built my 20" Firestone split rims and mounted 11.00/20 NDT tires on them. I ran these tires and wheels on the truck for 10 years and over 225,000 miles before selling the truck in 1995. During that 10-year span I made the elk hunting round-trip from Georgia to Colorado every year and the 11.00/20 NDT performed flawlessly, on the highway as well as off-road. So if you are looking for maximum traction and fuel economy for your M1009 with no chassis modification, I suggest you consider purchasing some 16" x 6.5" wheels and mounting 9.00/16 NDT tires, tubes, and boots. 8 ounces of Dyna Beads in each tube should provide a smooth, vibration-free ride.

By the way, I re-acquired my 1985 20" split rims and used them on my M1028 rebuild. I am running 11.00/20 NDT and am enjoying a smooth, vibration-free ride.

Hope this helps.

Copy (3) of DSC02634.jpg
 

lostintexas

New member
175
0
0
Location
Houston, TX
I am running 33x12.50s on my stock suspension M1009 and I get a slight rub backing out of the driveway at full lock. I'm talking <6" of elevation drop and it's only a slight rub but on the trail I would need more lift.
 
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