M1009 tire size question

[RedneckMilenko]

I have an M1009 with 31/10.5/15 tires on it at the moment and am wondering if I can upgrade to a 33" tire without needing to put a lift in. If anyone else has done this I am wondering if theres any rub issues off road or when turning. I really don't want to spend the $ for 33"s then end up having to get a small lift when right now I'm trying to save up for an 8" lift to go along with the M1008 axles that're in it's future. Also, if 33"s are possible, will a 33/13.5/15 be plausable or do I need to stick with the 10.5 width?

 

[4x4 Forever]

The 33's in a 12.5" wide will fit but you have to trim the lower flange at the bottom of the cab on each side. Don't know if 13.5's will fit without more 'bodywork'.

But why spend the money right now on tires if your saving up for the 8" lift and the 'new' axles? I'd just as soon put all of my money on the final project.

 

[doghead]

Since your interests have changed based on the thread you started yesterday, why not continue the discussion on that thread?

Now you'll have people answering both threads.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

The tires on it right now are over 9 years old. I used to be tech at Goodyear and rule of thumb was never have anything 10 years old on a truck. The composition of the rubber starts to break down and they become rather dangerous. I drive the truck rather regularly and really don't feel like dealing with a complete blow out resulting in further damage. Plus it will be a wile before the D60's go under it to run the 40"s. But you talk about trimming, do you know about how much I need to trim? I've never been one who was great at body work so I'll end up having a buddy of mine come help me with that so it doesn't look horrible.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

Doghead, my intrests haven't changed all that much but o the other thread it was explained to me that in the end it'd be suggested to just do the axle swap after buying a M1008 for parts. It will be a wile before I have the extra $ for that project so for them moment I just need to have a useable rig that I can drive with confidence instead of worrying about a blow out. Also, you're relay modification has been a great help. Before I did it I couldn't even start it comfortably being as it cost me a $130 starter in the Cici's pizza parking lot the 1st time the poles fused in the weak relay. So thank you very much.

 

[doghead]

I definitely agree that tires need to be replaced based on age, as well as tread wear.

There is nothing like the confidence of a new set of tires on your rig.

 

[4x4 Forever]

Didn't see your other thread about updating the axles...

Yup, change the tires. The trimming is at the bottom of the wheelwell on the cab side on both sides. Don't have any pics with me, but after you get the tire on, you will see where you need to trip. Usually no more than about 1/2 to 3/4".

Good Luck!

 

[Skinny]

Run some retreads from treadwright.com an save your money for the axle swap. Or find some used tires on craigslist.

 

[11Echo]

Been running 33/12.50's for nearly 40 years on GM square body 4x4's and never lifted one or cut out a fender well as long as I was using a GM wheel. Only fitment problems I ever had occurred when using aftermarket wheels.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

Right, it's also going to double as a farm truck and need some agressive tred so I don't float off the **** into the lake when it gets muddy. One side it's the watery grave, the other side it's sliding off into a vally and a lot of body damage from t-boneing trees. So that also plays a bit of a role in ti.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

Well I found a set of 33/13.5/15 on craigslist, thats why I was asking about them but I'll mount some 33"s on it and see how they run. If I have any rub I'll trim it. I'll probably need to trim in the long run running 40"s anyway. But retreads, are they as reliable as just getting a set of tires? I'll be honest, I've never encountered anyone running retreads.

 

[beltfedonly]

I put 33's on my M1009 with original wheels without any problems, no trimming required.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

Is your avatar with the 33"s on stock springs?

 

[Cletus09]

I don't think it looks like factory springs... I have read other places that 33x12.50 will fit on a m1009/8 with no trimming required... Post your results, I am looking at putting the same size tire on my 09 next summer...

 

[RedneckMilenko]

No problem, I'm ging to do my best to try to find a set of used 33"s pretty cheap to see if I like them on the truck. I'll take pics and post on this thread. If any trimming is needed I'll do a complete write up. (although it wouldn't be much anyway). I may go ahead and trim it for the future 40"s but I'll test out the 33"s stock first and let you know for your own use.

 

[paramilusmc]

Some on here have been able to go with the 12.5 inch wide 33" tires, however some don't quite make it. I put on Goodyear AT's 33x10.5R15's and done enough off roading to know if any issues would arise. No issues to date at all, three years with these bad boys on.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

Then I will stick with a 10.5. With the clay we have around here it's better to run a skinnier tire anyway, actually cuts through to hard dirt instead of getting gummed up and floating on top of the mud. But on this note talking about off roading, does anyone have any tips on how to change your U-joints in the front drive shaft? The back 2 joints have what looks like green plastic pins holding the caps on. I've been told to burn them out but I would rather find another way to do it. Putting that much heat to the assembly runs the risk of weakening the yolks (or whatever the proper term is for those joints)

 

[Skinny]

That is the factory plastic injected retainers. If you put them in a press and push hard enough they will snap but it will be violent and unnecessary. You can heat them up with a propane torch. You do not need to get the yoke glowing cherry red. Just enough heat to make the plastic squeeze out of the injection holes where the little nubs are. Again, you just need to heat the yoke up enough to melt the plastic. You will not do any damage. Use a hammer to drive the ujoints out. Presses are great ways for bending and cracking yokes. The impact of a hammer works wonders. Or put them in a vise and put pressure on them with junk sockets. Then smack the yoke with a hammer.

 

[RedneckMilenko]

Alright, sounds like a good plan to me. I'll get that done this week. I've been driving around for 3 weeks now w/o a front drive shaft being as my forward U-joint fell apart on me when I put the new trasmission and transfer case in. I wanted to replace all of them, not just the one bad one. It'd be my luck one of the others would pop first time in the mud.