M1009 Transmission Questions

[rmesgt]

My torque converter and my engine are no longer friends, meaning there are no longer any bolts connecting the flywheel (flexplate?) to the torque converter. Reviewing the -34P, I came across something I found confusing.

Figure 81 shows the "Transfer Case Assembly and Adapter (Model 20. I am guessing the Model 208 is the transmission model number and not related to the UOC code.
The UOC for the M1009 is code 209 and the parts description for figure 81 shows UOCs 194, 208, 209, 210, 236.

Figure 82 shows the "Transfer Case Assembly and Adapter (Model 205). The UOCs for the Model 205 are 231, 252, 254, 256.

Both figures (81 and 82) are similar, but I am guessing I should use Figure 81 because of the UOC's.

Thoughts anyone???

 

[Curtisje]

My torque converter and my engine are no longer friends, meaning there are no longer any bolts connecting the flywheel (flexplate?) to the torque converter. Reviewing the -34P, I came across something I found confusing.

Figure 81 shows the "Transfer Case Assembly and Adapter (Model 20. I am guessing the Model 208 is the transmission model number and not related to the UOC code.
The UOC for the M1009 is code 209 and the parts description for figure 81 shows UOCs 194, 208, 209, 210, 236.

Figure 82 shows the "Transfer Case Assembly and Adapter (Model 205). The UOCs for the Model 205 are 231, 252, 254, 256.

Both figures (81 and 82) are similar, but I am guessing I should use Figure 81 because of the UOC's.

Thoughts anyone???

Yes, figure 81 (np208 ) applies to your M1009. According to the 10 manual the np205 was only equipped on the M1028A1 and the M1031. Good luck.

 

[Barrman]

If you don’t want to drop the transmission and transfer case. People have had success putting 6 inch long bolts or studs in place of the bottom 4 transmission to engine bolts. Then just slide the transmission back on the studs. You still have to drop both drive shafts, undo the shifters and the crossmember. But a floor jack lined up lengthwise with the truck will let you just slide it back. Don’t forget to support the bottom of the engine too so it doesn’t snap off the vacuum pump.

 

[rmesgt]

Wow... that would seem to save a great deal of effort. After reading the TM's (-20 and -34), I was prepared to separate the driveshafts from the transfer, the transfer from the transmission and finally the transmission from the truck. By sliding the entire assembly to the rear, I should be able to extract the torque convertor and if necessary, replace the flywheel (flex plate?) as well.

To support the engine, I will build a crossmember that I can bolt or clamp to the frame and slide a block between it and the oil pan. Hopefully, that will prevent the engine from moving or dropping down. Your thougts?

Thank you for the great idea. I will remove a bolt and match it at Lowes so I can get the 6" variant

 

[rmesgt]

I removed the access cover (Inspection Plate?) from the transmission. As I was cleaning it, I found an amazing number of radiant cracks all over it. I would like to replace this part, but if I can't find one, I suppose I could have mine welded/repaired.

 

[nyoffroad]

I removed the access cover (Inspection Plate?) from the transmission. As I was cleaning it, I found an amazing number of radiant cracks all over it. I would like to replace this part, but if I can't find one, I suppose I could have mine welded/repaired.

View attachment 853010View attachment 853009View attachment 853008View attachment 853007View attachment 853006

That's nothing to worry about, it's not a structural part.

 

[frank8003]

That's nothing to worry about, it's not a structural part.

Yeah, and it ain't good either. What caused the cracks is the real question.

 

[Skinny]

They all eventually crack. I wouldn't sweat it, have someone weld them up. Old inspection covers are becoming hard to find. I have two spares if you want to buy one. Of course I also need one for a 4L80 so spread the word...

Sliding it back is easiest and can be done cheap with a floor jack. The 208 is pretty easy to manage because it's fairly light.

If you have a flat surface to work on the $100 crap jack from Harbor Freight will get the job done. I've installed and removed a 205 and 4L80 which are pretty heavy. Just don't have high hopes for it. It gets the job done but I don't expect it to last forever.

 

[rmesgt]

Thank you all for the great advice. I removed the front and rear drive shafts without too much trouble, although one of my caps fell of the forward most U-joint, spilling my needle bearings across my shop floor. I noticed that the U-joints have no grease zerks on them. I thought about replacing them with greasable joints because A: The drive shafts are out and easily accessible right now and B: I have no idea if these parts have ever been changed and C: I am old and all of the U-joints I have ever dealt with had grease zeros on them. What have you all done in the past on this issue? I would love to hear your thoughts and insights.

 

[royalflush55]

The hardened non greaseable u-joints will outlast the cheaper greaseable ones at least 2-1 or more is my experience. The cross is a lot stouter without the hole drilled for the zerk too. If yours have the originals there is your answer for sure!

 

[cucvrus]

You have received good sound advise. But yes that bottom cover does supply support when it is bolted in place. And if you are concerned with the condition of the one you have used ones are available. Good Luck and Happy Holidays. Let me know if you need any parts.

 

[WWRD99]

Thank you all for the great advice. I removed the front and rear drive shafts without too much trouble, although one of my caps fell of the forward most U-joint, spilling my needle bearings across my shop floor. I noticed that the U-joints have no grease zerks on them. I thought about replacing them with greasable joints because A: The drive shafts are out and easily accessible right now and B: I have no idea if these parts have ever been changed and C: I am old and all of the U-joints I have ever dealt with had grease zeros on them. What have you all done in the past on this issue? I would love to hear your thoughts and insights.

I'm split on the zerks...being ones that don't have them last a decade or more and ones with are about the same if you get the ones with the zerk on the end cap and not the middle of the cross...it's definitely a mental check knowing, I put grease in that I should be ok vs is that ujoint gonna blow out this year since I can't grease it...the trans cover does add rigidity to the trans case...getting the little cracks tig welded up should be a easy thing to get done...check to see if the mating surface is flat to the trans...could be why it's cracking...crayons or lipstick work good for seeing that...side note too on the cover...it has the 2 lower bolt holes that don't hook to anything in the cucv AFAIK...they did use steel rods in the campers and high torque engines from the cover to the motor mounts to add strength to the case...the 400 was used for a very long time in many different vehicles and not many actually break from normal use...some of the covers out there were thin stamped steel that just kept your fingers safe if under it while running.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[frank8003]

~~...the trans cover does add rigidity to the trans case...getting the little cracks tig welded up should be a easy thing to get done...check to see if the mating surface is flat to the trans...could be why it's cracking...crayons or lipstick work good for seeing that...~

I have checked things for flat and made things flat to join with my favorite stone, I never let anyone use it because they will dig a hole in it doing knifes and stuff. I have always, and still do use, a light spray of Dykem blue and the proper Norton stone & oil and one gets things flat.
Norton combination crystolon bench stone UPC 614636854557

Tell Santa You need one of these

Amazon.com

And some of this too, don't use any old oil or motor oil.

Amazon.com

 

[rmesgt]

I purchased a have a new front driveshaft U-joint from O'Reilly Automotive (Spicer 5-1310X $26.09) but haven't yet installed it. It took an act of congress to remove the old U-Joint and I don't want to mess up the new one with poor installation procedures. I will have to google how to do it. I also bought a new torque converter. I don't know if my existing torque converter is "bad" or not, but I thought a new one would be a good idea. The torque converter I purchased from O'Reilly Automotive is PTQ TC1149 ($82.99). This torque converter is significantly different than my existing unit. The existing torque converter has SIX bolt holes, matching perfectly with my engine flex plate. The recently purchase torque converter has only THREE bolt holes. I am thinking I have the wrong torque converter. I would appreciate any insights on this dilemma. Have any of you had this experience? Please advise...

 

[royalflush55]

You have the wrong torque convertor! It must have the six mounting pads on a 6.2 diesel. Squibbly just went thru this on his rig.

 

[rmesgt]

Thank you for your reply. I figured as much. I will return it tomorrow. I did see a rebuilt torque converter on ebay for slightly more than the one I got at O'Reilly.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I'm split on the zerks...being ones that don't have them last a decade or more and ones with are about the same if you get the ones with the zerk on the end cap and not the middle of the cross...it's definitely a mental check knowing, I put grease in that I should be ok vs is that ujoint gonna blow out this year since I can't grease it..

Agreed! I don't think the zerk fitting makes any materiel difference in the strenght. It's more a matter of having a quality unit vs. cheap Chicom knock-off, I think.

...getting the little cracks tig welded up should be a easy thing to get done...

Easy, yes, but with all those cracks, it might be cheaper just to replace it. Can't hurt to get a quote.

 

[rmesgt]

So, I returned the WRONG torque converter to O'Reilly Automotive. Apparently, that torque converter was for a 1/2 ton truck. A more knowledgeable associate requested the proper (6 bolt) torque converter on my behalf. The torque converter part number is PTQ TC1154 and was $118.74. I also purchased six bolts (Part # ACD 1261968, $2.96 each). Following the advice I received from all of you, I moved the transmission and transfer case rearward and removed the old torque convertor. It was toast. It seemed that whomever installed the transmission before I got the truck felt that three bolts would be enough, but apparently, that was not the case. One of the bolt holes on the old torque converter was completely stripped of threads and two others had broken bolts within the mounting lugs. The new torque converter slipped right in and fit perfectly.

With the help of my son, we soon had the transmission reattached to the engine. I decided to change the transmission fluid and filter (Part # PTQ FK106, $15.29) since the M1009 is new to me and I had no idea if it had ever been done. Naturally, I made a mess, spilling ATF all over my shop floor. Once I had the pan off, I cleaned it inside and out and removed the old gasket. Once clean, I noticed a line around the interior of the pan. I have attached a picture of this line. I think it was created by water. What do you all think?

 

[ezgn]

So, I returned the WRONG torque converter to O'Reilly Automotive. Apparently, that torque converter was for a 1/2 ton truck. A more knowledgeable associate requested the proper (6 bolt) torque converter on my behalf. The torque converter part number is PTQ TC1154 and was $118.74. I also purchased six bolts (Part # ACD 1261968, $2.96 each). Following the advice I received from all of you, I moved the transmission and transfer case rearward and removed the old torque convertor. It was toast. It seemed that whomever installed the transmission before I got the truck felt that three bolts would be enough, but apparently, that was not the case. One of the bolt holes on the old torque converter was completely stripped of threads and two others had broken bolts within the mounting lugs. The new torque converter slipped right in and fit perfectly.

With the help of my son, we soon had the transmission reattached to the engine. I decided to change the transmission fluid and filter (Part # PTQ FK106, $15.29) since the M1009 is new to me and I had no idea if it had ever been done. Naturally, I made a mess, spilling ATF all over my shop floor. Once I had the pan off, I cleaned it inside and out and removed the old gasket. Once clean, I noticed a line around the interior of the pan. I have attached a picture of this line. I think it was created by water. What do you all think?

View attachment 854315

I think that line is visual guide to tell you when to stop adding transmission fluid.

 

[gringeltaube]

The torque converter part number is PTQ TC1154 and was $118.74

Next time anyone needs a NIB correct (diesel) TC for the TH400 (for a fraction of that cost) @gimpyrobb still has some at his place.
(And once he runs out of stock I know where to find dozens more...)