m1009 turbo/lift buildup

[kapnklug]

Been driving my 85 M1009 ("The General") for three years, and now its time for General V2.0! It's getting a set of 3/4ton axles, 2" add-a-leafs and Zero-rate blocks, 35X15 Swamper TSL-SX tires, and the turbo setup from a '93 K3500 6.5TD.
Heres some pix from the first stage, swapping in the GM 14-bolt rear axle. This went pretty smoothly, but required a conversion U-joint at the rear pumpkin, and some modification to the parking brake cables. I'm currently driving it like this (2WD only!). The 4.10 gears with 35" tires give it much better throttle response without winding out all crazy like an M1008.
Next step will be more complicated, since I plan on removing the front clip to replace the front axle, rebuild the heads (right bank is smoking blue) and install the turbo. Pictures will be posted as work progresses.

Heard different opinions on using the (.010") thicker head gaskets when installing a turbo -- anyone want to chime in on this issue?

 

[SGT LongT]

Axel upgrades and turbo are on my wish (to do) list. I read a thread on another site and he used two 6.2 gaskets on the turbo side. Here is the link in case it helps Turbo a 6.2 with 6.5 parts - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

 

[kapnklug]

Sgt LongT, he's talking about using 2 EXHAUST gaskets on the turbo side, to shim the exhaust manifold away from the cylinder head. Not two head gaskets on the same side

 

[dstang97]

Use 6.5 headgaskets and try to get the pump off the 93.

 

[SGT LongT]

Sgt LongT, he's talking about using 2 EXHAUST gaskets on the turbo side, to shim the exhaust manifold away from the cylinder head. Not two head gaskets on the same side

My bad. Its been a while since I read that thread. Still hope it helps out.

 

[timarr]

Whos leaves and block are you using?

 

[AllenEM]

I put M1008 axles under mine no lift and 315/75/16 tires and they don't hit. but I would like to add a add a leaf to all four corners was to give a little more lift.

 

[Firejareen]

I have an M1028 and on my turbo install I had a .25" plate made under the turbo to raise it up away from the
manifold and valve cover a little. It is a PIA to get to that glow plug but it works well.

 

[kapnklug]

Timarr, the Zero-Rate blocks are from Off Road Design. I'll be using the front one to move the axle 1.5" forward in the chassis. Rear axle is installed with no offset. The add-a-leafs are Rough Country, about $60 each.

Dstang97, yep I've got an IP from a '93 hummer (not the same vehicle that donated the turbo setup). I've heard all I need to change is the 24v stop-solenoid for my current 12v one. Wondering if I have to change to 6.5 injectors at the same time? Running out of funds for this project!

 

[timarr]

THANK YOU sir

 

[bearboley]

No injector change needed. But the 6.2 heads are different they have a different injector angle will not clear the turbo you will need the 6.5 heads, if you lucky you might already have the short injectors the last 6.2 I did had them and the motor was out of a 93 military pickup. If your running the db2 IP look for one from a j code truck they are tuned a little better. Finding injector lines for a db2 ip and short 6.5 injectors can sometimes be fun. Throw a 4l80 in there and you got a truck.

 

[southdave]

Use 6.5 headgaskets and try to get the pump off the 93.

I have a couple of those pumps, if you need one?

 

[dstang97]

How much?

 

[kapnklug]

So the project is moving slowly, but here's the latest pix.
The lift/axle swap is done; I'm using 2" rough-country add-a-leaves and 1" zero-rate blocks all around. The axles are from a 76 3/4ton (dana 44 front, gm 14-bolt rear with 4.10 gears). Front axle has been moved forward 1.5". The detail pic shows where the front pass. side zero rate block needed grooves ground in it to allow the outside u-bolt to fit parallel. Also visible in this pic is the ORD swaybar relocating kit, necessary when moving the front axle. There's a random hose hanging over the swaybar, not a part of the suspension (oops).
The other detail pic shows a test fit of the pass. side exhaust manifold for the turbo, and how it hits the flare nut of the #6 injector. Gotta work on that a little...

Recent Update: This suspension combo on the front axle WILL REQUIRE a drop-steering arm on my new dana 44 ft. axle, to regain full lock-lock turning radius. After shortening the steering link by 1.5" to compensate for the new axle location, it's at a sharp angle and jams up before the steering stops contact.

 

[kapnklug]

So here's some recent updates:
1. The oil return pipe from the '93 K3500TD turbo donor truck hits the injector lines. Also it runs between the exhaust manifold and the block, heating up the oil even more. I'll make a new one, there are kits on FleaBay for $50.
2. While I'm taking the engine apart, gonna replace that water pump. Here's a shot with the water pump and plate removed.
3. The new exhaust...sure it looks cool, but will it pass inspection??? Nope. Obviously this downpipe (from an SS Diesel kit for a 93 Tahoe/Yukon) is gonna need another elbow (or something). Might need to sacrifice those dual shocks also.
4. The DSG stud girdle installed. The circles indicate the tabs on the stud girdle that needed to be ground down slightly, in order to clear the throws of the crankshaft.

 

[kapnklug]

Some more recent pix:
1. The turbo manifold, all dressed for dinner. IDE Heatwrap protects the glow plug wires and injector return lines. Thermocouple for the pyrometer sticking out to the right.
2&3. One of the rebuilt heads mounted. Man this job would suck bigtime if I hadn't removed the hood and fenders. Ended up grinding half inch off the backing plate of the hydroboost to get to the rear bolts on the driver's side head.

 

[kapnklug]

Latest pix from the endless buildup:
1. top of engine (yes, lots of bolts still missing) showing turbo oil supply manifold and intake manifold. DO NOT forget to blow the aluminum shavings out of the upper intake from drilling the boost sender port, before installing the manifold! That was a close one!
2. side view of the turbo manifold, showing the tight bolt clearance to the frame. I used header wrap and DEI silicone paint on the manifold, 1/4" heatshield loom on the injector returns and the glowplug wires, and 2" aluminized heatshield on the main wiring harness. All supplies from JEGS. The turbo oil return line is AN-4 with a 90deg fitting at the engine blockoff plate. Shoulda used a 90deg fitting at the turbo side also, but at least it clears everything (barely)
3. front view of the turbo manifold (w/o pass alternator). You can see the extremely tight fit with those pesky #4 & #6 injector flare nuts. I tightened the nuts til they were horizontal, then ground a little off the outside of the nuts. Clearance flarenut-to-manifold is about 1/8" using (2) exhaust gaskets. The return lines for those injectors are touching the manifold, but they're inside heatshield and the manifold is in header wrap, so we'll see how it goes.

 

[chevyCUCV]

Looking good

Have you heard of a boost bolt? threads into the upper intake where the hole goes into the intake area. Think they are available on pmd cable.com, Little late for you but could help someone else in the future.

Also i like your exhaust, what size pipe is that?

 

[kapnklug]

Making the exhaust system.
I started with a kit from SSDIESEL, 3" downpipe to 4" exhaust, made for a GMC Yukon (they don't make one for old blazers). They told me it wouldn't be a bolt-on and it wasn't, but not really hard to make it work with the M1009. I had to add an extra 3" 45deg elbow in the downpipe, then rotate the following section to bring it in straight with the frame. I chopped about a foot out of the 4" pipe to make the turnout right in front of the pass rear tire. I plan on hanging the tailpipe from the same bolt that holds the support rod on the corner of the wheelwell.
The crossover pipe was a little trickier. I'm using turbo parts from a 93 K3500 6.5TD, and the drivers side exhaust manifold would not clear my oil cooler lines, no matter how I rotated them. So I put back the stock 6.2 exhaust manifold, but then the crossover pipe didn't line up. Ended up using the ends of the crossover pipe, but cutting out the middle and replacing it with a 90deg elbow and rotating the ends to to the elbow.

HEY, WHERE ARE MY PICTURES???

 

[kapnklug]

pics that I tried to upload last time...

PS Be sure to build your downpipe with the front tires turned all the way to the right, and consider suspension travel, or you'll wind up with the tire rubbing on the exhaust