M1009 wont start/no crank

[justinwregier]

UPDATE

NEW STARTER MULTI GEAR 24v
TWO NEW BATTERIES

The electrical system seems sound, all lights are on strong, heater fan blows high but...
still no start.

This may be bad but it does turn over with a little starter fluid so I know the engine fires up. I drove
a bit and then stopped the engine. I waited a few minutes and it started up fine.

A few hours later the truck wont start on its own still. Before the "issue" it was starting and running.

Air in the fuel lines? Bad fuel filter? Clogged injectors? any ideas?

 

[topgun217]

I don't know if this helps, I just got my 1009 a week ago. My friend who is a mechanic discoverd something odd; my solonoid had a 24v connection hooked up when the sticker clearly said it was 12v. The thing had new batts just put in and it would crank, however no start. I turned him onto SS and low and behold to the easy way fix, I now activate the glow plugs via. push button, and he also found that there were numerous grounds corroded and they were cleaned and he also replaced a few fuses etc. He also suspected foul fuel prior to doing all of this so a complete empty tank and started fresh along with Lucas fuel treatment, and this all did the trick. Oh yea, the glow plugs were also changed using Delco's. Now she purrs like a bug cat

Good luck! If I find anything else I will pass it along. Just keep reading all the posts on here you'll have success I'm sure of it!

 

[4bogginchevys]

I am going to keep track of this thread because I bought my m1009 last week and drove it around the parking lot fine. The dealer turned the key for the wait light, tried to crank, then tried again to get it going. This truck is missing an alternator. I knew that going out there and got the deal on account of it. I have been looking for an alternator, bolts, and new pulleys to get it in shape. In the meantime, I towed it 300 miles back to home and couldn't get it going. It has the same problem described above in terms of the clicking when the light is on. The light doesn't go off or at least I don't let it click more than 15 seconds because I don't know that the clicking is good or bad. I think the headlights are out because nothing comes on anywhere. I'm just kind of diagnosing as I go. I figured I'd get serious when I find an alternator. Does anyone know where I could find an alternator for this truck if I need two? I'm not sure what amps are required or if it is recommended to keep the 24volts over the 12 volts. I found one on ebay but the dealer doesn't know if it fits. I'm assuming that the ones at oreillys and advance auto parts for the 6.2l diesel are good fits. Either one is fine with me. I couldn't find anything at a junkyard for 70 miles. Please let me know if the one at Oreillys will bolt on fine. I'll get the bolts and pulleys at the same time.

Sorry if I posted under the wrong thread, it just seemed so similar that I didn't want to start a new thread and be called out for it. Thank you for any help.

Look in the FAQ thread, a starter from an old caddy will fit, and one from an older chevy van, it's a large case unit. I could be wrong on the part #...if your auto parts store sells a 7157 thats the right one...I just cant remeber if thats the part # for the one with an isolated ground or not.....ISO ground must be on pass side of truck, drivers doesn't have to be isolated...good luck

UPDATE

NEW STARTER MULTI GEAR 24v
TWO NEW BATTERIES

The electrical system seems sound, all lights are on strong, heater fan blows high but...
still no start.

This may be bad but it does turn over with a little starter fluid so I know the engine fires up. I drove
a bit and then stopped the engine. I waited a few minutes and it started up fine.

A few hours later the truck wont start on its own still. Before the "issue" it was starting and running.

Air in the fuel lines? Bad fuel filter? Clogged injectors? any ideas?

If it starts with ether than I believe it's a glow plug problem. Fuel problem is possible aswell but less likely based on the fact it wouldn't start after cooling down....if your driveway is sloped than park engine side low, I have to do this to keep air from getting in the lines on mine, I haven't yet found all the fuel gremlins (it's winter). You could also back onto car ramps to make a slope...once the fuel is there gravity will take over and keep fuel in the lines. It is a good test anyways to rule other possibilities out. Remember to try one thing at a time or you wont know what fixed it for next time

 

[badassissimo]

Sorry if I made any confusion. I'm looking for an alternator right now. Same as Chevy van?

 

[badassissimo]

Here are some pictures of the missing alternator.

 

[4bogginchevys]

Sorry if I made any confusion. I'm looking for an alternator right now. Same as Chevy van?

7157 part # doesn't work any more at my napa.......part # 4205 is a 100 amp model, 94.00 w/ 3 year...if you have 1 origanol iso ground alt put it on the pass side and this one on the drivers, then your done. I got out the old AC Delco # which is 1101015 and had it crossed. I have one on my truck now, and have for 4 months...works good.

 

[Warthog]

Here are some pictures of the missing alternator.

Looks like your also missint the upper and lower brackets along with the batteries and hold downs.

You can see what the barackets look like in the -20p and -34p manuals

 

[Wingman2]

I experienced the same problem. I went through three sets of batteries. Do you by chance have a steel plate inside with three electrical solenoids laying on the floor by the 4x4? I found that when this plate was allowed to lay on the floor my truck wouldn't always start. I'm no expert but I belive the gold/silver one is a relay and that was my gremlin. If you do have it on the floor screw that plate back up to the dash and off the floor and the truck will start. I also upgraded to 1100 cranking amp batteries. Now mine runs great. Hope that helps.

 

[topgun217]

Justin, you've been given some great advise from everyone here. These guys are great! I hope you didn't spend all your money for nothing replacing the items you did, but hey, this is a hobby and it's ok to live and learn, I have! Good Luck and keep us posted

 

[badassissimo]

Yeah, I think Oreillys is running the same deal. Just a quick question before I lock into it, are two alternators required or can this be done with one 100 Amp? Would two alternators make it easier? I know I'll need brackets and bolts. I figured I'd get those wherever I get the alternator because if I get the alternator at a junkyard, they might give me the brackets and bolts. Otherwise, new doesn't hurt. Let me know about the how many alternators. I'm fine with leaving the batteries where they are (behind the passenger seat) until I find out how far away the alternators are from those electrical leads.

 

[4bogginchevys]

Yeah, I think Oreillys is running the same deal. Just a quick question before I lock into it, are two alternators required or can this be done with one 100 Amp? Would two alternators make it easier? I know I'll need brackets and bolts. I figured I'd get those wherever I get the alternator because if I get the alternator at a junkyard, they might give me the brackets and bolts. Otherwise, new doesn't hurt. Let me know about the how many alternators. I'm fine with leaving the batteries where they are (behind the passenger seat) until I find out how far away the alternators are from those electrical leads.

I looked again at the pic you provided....are you missing the battery trays, you said the battery's were behind the seat? If the system is still 24V, yes you need 2 alts. I would be very surprised if oriely's had the brackets you need, but I guess it's worth a check anyhow. It sounds to me like there's more to this story.... is it a stock 1009 missing some parts or did someone try to change the setup under the hood?

I dont know if the alt location on the 6.2 pass side (the one your missing) would be the same on the caddy or van that you are getting the alt from. Maybe someone else who had to track down bracketry can chime in here soon.

 

[badassissimo]

Yeah, the trays are missing. I'm debating if I want to pull my AC from my C10. Having the batteries behind the seat isn't too bad because I don't have a back seat right now and there's rust everywhere anyways with some holes in the body. I get the feeling this thing is wired funky too. I can't depress the horn for sound on the steering wheel but if I turn the service light switch on then it goes off. Isn't that wonderful?

In regard to the brackets, I hope they do have them. I would be SOL otherwise. It should be the same as a 6.2L diesel shouldn't it? It is in their computer. How different could it be if I'm buying a brand new alternator and brackets and belts. It probably is an unspoken conversion. I need to check the opposite side for the other alternator because I don't recall it being present. I was drawn so closely to the gaping canyon on the passenger side where my c10 has a battery, AC, and alternator that I forgot to even wonder if I should check for what I have seen in other member's pictures that have dual alternators. I will check this tomorrow. Thank you for the reminder.

 

[badassissimo]

I looked again at the pic you provided....are you missing the battery trays, you said the battery's were behind the seat? If the system is still 24V, yes you need 2 alts. I would be very surprised if oriely's had the brackets you need, but I guess it's worth a check anyhow. It sounds to me like there's more to this story.... is it a stock 1009 missing some parts or did someone try to change the setup under the hood?

I dont know if the alt location on the 6.2 pass side (the one your missing) would be the same on the caddy or van that you are getting the alt from. Maybe someone else who had to track down bracketry can chime in here soon.

I forgot to ask you, is 24v required on a 6.2L or just recommended? I had been told that converting to 12v isn't a big deal but then someone said to track down a TM to check if everything would work on 12v. Either way, I can't seem to find a TM as of yet and I'm still unsure if I want to hold on to two batteries if I'm not going to use them even when I start the engine. The only thing I can think of that would shut me down is running two winches or a 24v winch unless of course the engine requires 24v. I'm confused and need to be fixed. lol.

 

[4bogginchevys]

I have a set of military trays if you need them, the ones that fit the 6tl or whatever they are...and 1 hold down for same batt. If you dont mind changing the configuration of stuff under the hood I have given detailed explanations of how to mount civvy trays from a 1 ton 6.2 truck, 1 batt on each side. You could try an advanced search of Battery trays or something, and ONLY threads I have posted in. That would be the best shortcut to find it. I also took pictures that may show more you are missing....

Edit: sounds like you need to determine if it is still setup to run 24V, if it is, it would be easier to put it back together as 24V...24V is not required, but info on this site will be a little more limited if you choose to do a conversion. Look for the iso alt, see if starter#'s cross to 24V, look for wiring that puts 24V to the glow plugs along firewall(box behind vaccuum pump), these answers will tell you if it was last ran as a 24V setup.

 

[badassissimo]

I have a set of military trays if you need them, the ones that fit the 6tl or whatever they are...and 1 hold down for same batt. If you dont mind changing the configuration of stuff under the hood I have given detailed explanations of how to mount civvy trays from a 1 ton 6.2 truck, 1 batt on each side. You could try an advanced search of Battery trays or something, and ONLY threads I have posted in. That would be the best shortcut to find it. I also took pictures that may show more you are missing....

Edit: sounds like you need to determine if it is still setup to run 24V, if it is, it would be easier to put it back together as 24V...24V is not required, but info on this site will be a little more limited if you choose to do a conversion. Look for the iso alt, see if starter#'s cross to 24V, look for wiring that puts 24V to the glow plugs along firewall(box behind vaccuum pump), these answers will tell you if it was last ran as a 24V setup.

Will do. It's snowing here in Ruston, LA and that means I'm too lazy to go outside except for work. I will look at it tomorrow and see if I can't find those things on the wiring and starter. I have a feeling nothing was converted or started to convert so 24v may be the way to go? I'll see if I can't search your posts/threads for the tray mounts. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Warthog]

Sorry if I posted under the wrong thread, it just seemed so similar that I didn't want to start a new thread and be called out for it. Thank you for any help.

This thread has gone WAY off track. There is a BIG difference of not starting and alternators missing. You may want to start a new one.

If you need help putting it back together you will need to post pictures of how the batteries are hooked up, both alternator locations, any cut wires etc.

You also need to decide if you want 12v or 24v.

 

[badassissimo]

Will do. Sorry for the inconvenience.

 

[Warthog]

Will do. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Not trying to bust your chops in anyway. Anytime you have a question PLEASE ask it!!!.

It is just that you took a different direction than the original post. You may not get your question answered because the person with the possible answer may not read this post.

Let us know how your wiring is as we should be able to help figure it out.


Warthog

 

[snausages]

Check the relay first - under the dash to the left of the steering column. Make sure you are getting voltage (purple wire) when the key is turned. Then again at the connections at the starter.

Have a M1008 I just replace the start on with an aftermarket starter from dbelectrical (Ebay auction). Turns over great now however there is enough of a gap between the start housing and flywheel cover to allow oil to push out. Made a gasket to stop it but not the long term fix I want.

Be careful of aftermarket starters. I've ordered a replacement solenoid for the the old 27TM stater and will swap them out.

 

[ABN173]

I had been told that converting to 12v isn't a big deal but then someone said to track down a TM to check if everything would work on 12v. Either way, I can't seem to find a TM as of yet and I'm still unsure if I want to hold on to two batteries if I'm not going to use them even when I start the engine.

The cucv TM's are on the 8th or 9th page. Click the resouces tab then click TM's. Although you won't a "how to guide" on converting to 12V anywhere in there. You could reference the wiring diagrams to clue you in about what is 24V.