M1009 Won't Start Suddenly and Melted Battery Post

[Spielmannsfluch]

I left my M1009 sit for a few weeks in the Oregon rain. I got in to move it so I could attach a new fan inside. It started the usual way, had to crank it three or four times, using glow plugs, but it got going. Nothing strange or unusual.

I drove it fifty feet to my garage, turned it off, and installed a new fan to an existing piece of electrical on the right side. I never touched the fuse box or the glow plug relay.

After I finished, I went to start it. Again, typical. Turn key, I hear the glow plug clicking, I wait for the wait light to go off, then crank for a couple seconds. Turn back, give it another shot with the glow plugs, hear the click and wait for the wait light. Normally, the engine will turn over and almost start when cold. Takes two or four tries, but has always started without fail. But this time, the engine won't start. I have all electrical inside, the wait light goes on and turns off after a few seconds. But it would not actually start when cranking. I tried about ten or fifteen times. White smoke coming out of the tailpipe, means it's getting fuel, right? The next step is to check the glow plug module? What about hearing the typical clicking? Could it be something else?

Should I just bypass the glow plug module and put in a momentary switch, instead?

Anyway, after cranking it for a while, the ground battery terminal on the battery closet to the firewall melted. That sucks! Question is, how bad is it to run mismatched batteries?

For the first problem, think it's glow plugs?

 

[pjwest03]

I would believe that it all relates to the bad ground connection. Low voltage and bad grounds are the sources of much evil. Cranking it a lot just exposed the weak point for you as the bad/dirty connection overheated from the starter load. I would start with repairing the wiring and cleaning/replacing the grounds and battery cables.

The batteries in a 24V system should match otherwise, one battery and/or the other will die sooner or later. It's OK to throw a miss matched one in for a short term test. In the long term it shortens the life of both.

 

[Spielmannsfluch]

I was reading some other posts where folks molded their own new post. So, I screwed in a small one inch screw into the lead where the post is missing, attached a charger and it is taking a charge! Cool. Question is how thick is that lead on top of the battery?

And the no start bit. Glow plugs?

 

[doghead]

It makes little difference in a cucv(dual 12 volt alts) if your batteries match.

I would follow the diagnostics procedure in the -20 tm for no start. It covers the gp system very well.

You could have a fuel issue causing these hard starts too. Look for any wetness near the fuel filter.

 

[Spielmannsfluch]

After looking up the glow plug module bypass instructions, that looks easier than the -20 TM.

What is a good modern compatible part # for the glow plug switch under the hood?

 

[doghead]

Try reading the stickies.

 

[cucvrus]

After looking up the glow plug module bypass instructions, that looks easier than the -20 TM.

What is a good modern compatible part # for the glow plug switch under the hood?

I have had great success using a snow plow relay/solenoid for my glow plug relay. I also have used Cole Hersse solenoids /relays. But a GM dealer will still sell you a glow plug relay for a mid 80 early 90's diesel pick up truck. They work great also. I don't have the part numbers at my finger tips. But I use a Western Plow relay/solenoid and they last for years on hard use vehicles. A Standard Motor Products Part number is SS591. Amazing it was made for Steel Soldiers. Not really. But that's the part number. I think it was about $40. Made in Mexico. Bolts in the original location and works like a charm. good Luck. Ask anytime I will give you the truth.

 

[Spielmannsfluch]

There were two mods suggested, dog head and another, one under the hood on the firewall, another under the dash. I did both. The glow plug switch was that thing in the TM where the wires plug into the engine, back driver side. Does that go bad?

I had an issue four years ago with that card in that cig pack sized module under the dash. I ended up just rewiring one of the wires when there was no voltage. Light blue one?, Maybe?

I remember picking up a momentary switch but never installing it to bypass the glow plug card thing. I'll install that and see if it cranks up.

Anyway, anyone in the Portland Oregon area, I am thinking about selling it because a diesel suburban would be better with three kids....but that is a different forum.

 

[cucvrus]

I guess anything can go bad. I am guessing you are talking about the temperature sensor on the back top left. Yes they go bad. But if you have the system bypassed you will not need that anyway.

 

[GM72K10]

Been using these solenoids
No Problems
[h=1]Trombetta 12 Volt Metal DC Contactor Part No. 974-1215-011-09[/h]

 

[doghead]

The sticky, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123199-CUCV-Helpful-Threads

Nearly everything you need to know can be found with a few clicks.

Including relay replacement part numbers, testing, gp repair, etc.

Weather we post the info in every thread, or send you to the stickies or TMs, you need to read the results.

 

[cucvrus]

Been using these solenoids
No Problems
Trombetta 12 Volt Metal DC Contactor Part No. 974-1215-011-09

[h=1]TROMBETTA Solenoid Relay Switch Continuous Duty Golf Cart 12 Volt MADE IN USA[/h]

They will work awesome also. Anything that is HD continuous duty will do the job. Good deal. Excellent recommendation.

 

[antennaclimber]

http://www.murcal.com/Catalog/Metal-DC-Contactor-Family/974-1215-011-09

I have bought quite a few of them from Murcal.

They are very good relays.

 

[GM72K10]

Yes!
That's where I get them from.

http://www.murcal.com/Catalog/Metal-DC-Contactor-Family/974-1215-011-09

I have bought quite a few of them from Murcal.

They are very good relays.

 

[Spielmannsfluch]

OK, got some time today and am more confused. Picked up a new battery, made sure it had 900 cranking amps. Made sure it was charged. Wired it up.

The light blue was already slightly exposed from before, so I alligator clipped it and ran it to a ground I use for the working cb. I heard something activate. I turned the key to on, wait light came on. I left the bypass clipped until the wait light went off then cracked a few times. Nothing. I reattached the bypass, heard activation. Left it on for 10-15 seconds, cranked, did not start. I tried a few more times, and the wait light stayed in less and less, so something is getting warm. But it would not start.

I stopped when the batteries started to feel like they were getting weak.

I started to smell diesel, so it's getting gas. Fuel filter is not leaking, but maybe four years old with three thousand miles on it. I know the tank is almost full.

It was dry and 57 degrees out today.

Reading the TM, the next steps really don't apply because they want me to pull glow plugs, and check the relay, etc. But it's already bypassed with indication it's getting warm. And it wasn't warm out, but not cold at all.

Next steps and advice? Help, please?

 

[Jeeperjoe]

I guess you could try to see if it'll run on WD-40 if it will that indicates a fuel issue if not maybe not enough compression?

I try and break down an engine is easily as possible if you know it's getting warm from the glow plugs the only things you need now are air fuel and compression

Of course the WD-40 trick I've never personally tried I just hear it's easier on engines than ether but I don't know if it'll work in a cucv

 

[cucvrus]

It will work. But ether will also. As long as you are not spray painting the inside of the intake. A little huff while someone is cranking and magic spray works wonders. But I would pull the glow plugs and bench test them.

 

[Spielmannsfluch]

No time tonight, but tomorrow I am going to put on the new fuel filter and check the fuel pump while I'm there.

I'll also check the fuse box, again, just to be sure. Then I'll try the WD-40 thing.

I have a new set of glow plugs I picked up years ago still in new packaging, just in case. I'd just change them rather than bench test them.

But the really confusing thing is why this would happen in the first place. It started, and I drove it 50 feet. Added a interior fan, and it wouldn't start two hours later. Makes no sense.

Thanks for the help.

 

[cucvrus]

It makes perfect sense if you somehow shorted a wire and blew a fuse. It's possible. Check all the fuses.

 

[Spielmannsfluch]

The wife does work today, so not as much time as I thought watching the kids. No time or second set of hands for the WD -40 boost.

I found the new glow plugs, the extra fuel filter, and the spare box of fuses. I pulled every fuse and checked it. There were several that were very old, but only #5 the top most heater fuse looked a bit melted. I never tapped that one, and the heater still worked. I changed them all.

I tried the same thing. The GP relay bypass is working for sure. The wait light comes on, and stays on for less time as I continue to crank and bypass intermittently. Getting white smoke and diesel smell. Compression "seems" OK.

Still won't start. Tried for a few minutes, then put the chargers back on the bayteries after disconnecting them.

If we can get the kids distracted long enough, I'll pull off the air filter later today and change out the fuel filter.