M1009

[Hotwire]

What controls the fast idle sensor? just swapped engines and now my engine doesnt idle fast at start up, and its kinda rough idling but after a few minutes smooths out, 28 degrees when i started it today, i think its the push rod type sensor with a green wire, does the sensor that serews into the block on the passenger side rear area control this? I didnt change this because it looked the same, i went from a 85 cucv to a 88 civilian 6.2, i kept all the military wiring and swapped it all, used the civilian injector pump(same one) but i didnt change these two sensors or the vaccum switch on the pump that sends vaccum to the transmission, help its the only vehicle my St Benard( named Diesel) likes to ride in. Thanks guys.

 

[Recovry4x4]

This should be interesting to hear. It never gets cold enough here for mine to operate. I'd like to add a manual switch to operate that solenoid for times when I'm just idling for a while.

 

[mangus580]

What '2 sensors' did you not change? If you are referring to the fast idle solenoid, and the cold advance solenoid that is fine.

What I am wondering, is did you change the temperature sensors in the head. The military uses 2 or 3 of them. (I dont recall exactly all of them) I know there is the one on the back, top of the drivers side head, which controls the glow plugs, and whether they turn on or not.

There is one on the front drivers side head, on the side just foward of # 1 glow plug... that is I beleive for the idiot light. Be careful with this one, as its very easy to mix up the #1 glow plug wire, and this plug if the plastic has failed on it (just ask another member who I had to help with glow plugs a few weeks ago).

Someplace there is a temp swtich that controls the high idle solenoid. I suspect you have missed the connection, or the swapping of the proper sensor. Looking at the schematic (clip attached) it appears that it has 2 wires on it. If the way the schematic is drawn, is any indication, it will be somewhat close to the IP.

 

[Hotwire]

Thanks, i found it sensor with 2 wires on it, it was plugged in backwards i switched it and now have power to the green wire on the pump, now to get those oil cooler lines to stop leaking, im about to plug them off at the block, i dont tow anything or run it long distance, they got bent during the engine swap now they are rubbing on everything and are against the shifting lever, what a pain! new ones are $50 a piece and only list a inlet line. thanks Mike

 

[mangus580]

DONT plug the oil cooler.... Not if you intend to keep your engine! The oil cooler is there for a reason.

 

[Hotwire]

LOL, im about to head outside and put those wonderful lines back on it, i think thats worse than the engine swap, thanks for all your help.

 

[Hotwire]

cooler lines back on,22 degrees, still doesnt start as fast as old engine, i used the new pump that was on the 88 engine, maybe the check ball or valve that holds fuel psi in the pump when its turned off? after the initial start it, it starts right back up,Nothing i cant live with for now. thanks for the help.

 

[mangus580]

You could try swapping injectors.

 

[Westech]

try the seafome fuel treatment... that stuff works great