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M101 A3 Build Utility, Camping, etc.

justinh

New member
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Location
chino hills, ca
Pictures please!

I went simple and used an adjustible channer.
welded it on the front of the tongue V and I use a croft lunette and 2" ball.

I replaced my safety chains with safety cables and like them much better.
I really like what you did and that was probably more practical than what I did. However, I really wanted a receiver on the front for longterm reasons. I'd like the ability to have a max coupler and a standard ball tongue. Obviously if I had it to do over I'd have had them just weld it on since we had to modify the end of the existing rails to get the receiver tube in there. I got it all cleaned up though yesterday with a few cutoff wheels and a flap disc. Bought some new grade 8 hardware last night to replace the original hardware that was on there.

I'll get some pics soon I promise. I need to pull my tires and wheels and get a good measurement for my new axle.
 

justinh

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Location
chino hills, ca
Ok, I took a few pics for you guys. Like i said, I'll probably make some more small changes and end up welding it in since I lost the big front hole to the receiver tube. When I do that I'll probably plate the sides up to the receiver tube.

new tongue with hitch in.jpgnew tongue with receiver (front).jpgmodified tongue 2.jpgnew tongue with receiver.jpg
 

harleyhouse

Well-known member
1,256
30
48
Location
Oakmont, Pennsylvania
Looks good!

Sell the original chains and get a pair of safety cables.
I used a longer grade 8 bolt on the lower rear bolt holes.
I found a spacer to fit through the cable thimble and bolted it all together.
The cables are quiet bolted on good and strong and recoil when not hooked up.

I like the snap hooks better too. They stay connected.
 

justinh

New member
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Location
chino hills, ca
Here are a few couple of examples of similar attempts.

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=189516

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/50968-ROAM-Camper-build

I also agree with Marcus, if looks a little crooked. Could just be camera angle though. I would stick a long piece on square tubing in the receiver to check.
I've seen the one on great lakes offroad, it is a nice setup and probably similar to what I'll end up doing in round 2 (I also plan to eventually copy his wiring set-up with the dual wiring configuration). The tongue modifications were made so quickly because I was getting this all around on borrowed stuff and don't technically have a place to keep it of my own at this apartment complex. I need it to be towable quickly and immediately using my equipment for short distances. Once I get my axle swapped, etc it will go down to my buddy's shop to store until we head east this summer and we will make some additional mods to it there which will include some more tongue modifications including welding it on permanently and some more plating.

In the pics I posted everything was sat in there and not bolted together so there is a good chance it was a little crooked. It will be perfectly square before anything is welded permanently. It does tow and track straight with this bolted in setup.

I got the original wiring completely pulled as well as the hard brake lines and brackets yesterday afternoon before I had to head out to my wife's med school banquet. I got all of my new trailer wiring run and new lights installed. I need to still make my electrical connections on the lights and secure all of my wiring with the new tabs I purchased.
 
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ALL4GLH

Member
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Location
Watertown / Ft. Drum, NY
I've been looking at threads like this for some time. I am debating if I am going to remove the surge and do an adjustable channel like this or if I am going to try and cut the lunette off and weld on the channel (with bracing on the underside) and try to keep the surge capability. Thoughts?
 

justinh

New member
30
0
0
Location
chino hills, ca
I've been looking at threads like this for some time. I am debating if I am going to remove the surge and do an adjustable channel like this or if I am going to try and cut the lunette off and weld on the channel (with bracing on the underside) and try to keep the surge capability. Thoughts?
I honestly haven't looked at that for even a second as my primary goal was dropping the surge brakes and lunette assembly. I'd imagine it would be possible.

You may find you're better off going with something like these though... https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Tr...oupler-pt-Weld~On-pc-2_Inch_Ball_Coupler.aspx
 

ALL4GLH

Member
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0
6
Location
Watertown / Ft. Drum, NY
I saw that option as well. I was thinking of just cutting the lunette off and adding this: http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Ad...gs-and-Adjustable-Couplers-12-hole_p_504.html

Then I could add the lunette or ball depending on the application. The trailer as it is sits a little too high for my silverado when it's empty, I haven't loaded it with wood yet to see what it's like weighted. I figured if I kept it this way I would keep cost down, keep the surge and trailer leg.

Sorry to thread jack.
 

harleyhouse

Well-known member
1,256
30
48
Location
Oakmont, Pennsylvania
In theory it looks like it would work to cut the lunette off " square clean cut "
and weld on the adjustible channel and still have the surge system.

My surge system was trashed so I welded the adjustible channel to the nose. It was the easiest way to convert it to my needs.
 

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justinh

New member
30
0
0
Location
chino hills, ca
Got the trailer down to my buddy's shop to store last night. Happy wife, happy life, she has her garage parking spot back for now.

I'm in a holding pattern until my axle comes in, hopefully sometime early next week. Once that arrives I should be able to knock-out the axle swap, welding on my safety chain loops, finish welding the new tongue/receiver, in a day. Then I'll call it "done" until I head east in June.
 
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