M1010 Electrical Drain on front Batt.

41cl8m5

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I have been scratching my head as what is going on with the front battery draining.
A little back ground. I bid on a M1010 that was up for auction at Ft. Riley back in January. I was out bid by $100 but was way over what the wife said to do. Afterward she desided lossing it by $100 was not going to do. Like being in second place sometimes it just sucks but that is life. I was in a good place at the time for going as high as I did with her. By the way, she is the one that wanted it. I already have my hands full with a M1009, M101a2 and A M35a2. I think she has the BUG!

Anyway, I contacted a member who had a M1010 for sale back in January near Austin TX, and he said He would hold it for me until I could pick it up in March. He picked it up from a local Sheriffs Dept. or something like that. It was used as a Comand unit for swat I think. When he picked it up the the front Battery was dead and the rear battery was over charging. He found a bad fuse in the fuse panel and some other things he adjusted and said the condition was fixed.

After getting it back to my house the wife started to make her list of honey dues for me to work on. Mostly it was cosmetics. After some time and driving it around the Denver metro area I found the front Battery was slowly going down in charge. The m1010 was towed back using a Military Med. towbar so just the wheels were in motion (disconnected the rear axle) It took awhile but I got It figered out.

I'm thinking the Authority that had it had issues with the Glow Plug system and removed the card. They did a bypass switch to manually "fire the plugs". First they added a wire from the fuse box to the switch. From the switch they cut the ground wire that goes to the relay on the fire wall and put it to the switch then they diconnected the pink wire from the relay and added a groung wire in it place from the soleinod mount. Basicly reversing the origanal set up. Are you totally confused yet, just wait.

The soleniod was replaced with a 24V model that has one contact that grounds to the case. It works, so you would not think anything was wrong. The resistance of the coil in the soleniod was way to high and since the power was coming from the fusebox (non fused) all the time resulting in the power drain. It was slow so it was hard to find.

After putting the wiring back to the origainal configuation and keeping the manual swicth (just grounded this time) I changed out the Soleniod with one that all 4 posts are isolated from the case and the main is isolated from the coil (the right one for the cucv seires) and added a new glow plug card from 1ST Sargent. His manual He put together for just the glow plug system is top notch and a must for any one that owns a cucv.

At this and after recharging the batteies the glow plug system works as it should and hopefully the parisitic drain is gone.

Sorry for the long post.
 

lavarok

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If your charging system is stock, your troubles are not over.
Search "DUVAC" on this site. Read up then PM me with questions.

This topic has been discussed many times in regards to the M1010. A stock M1010 has a different setup than all the other CUCVs in regards to the charging circuit.
 

41cl8m5

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lavarok, I did search all the M1010 related posts, That is why I did not realy what to get into the M1010. Just too much of a pain to deal with in my opinion.

Ron Thanks, It only has 7900 miles on it. Still has that moth ball smell to it!

I try to search everything before I post that is why my post numbers are down. Can't realy add to what is allready out there
 

mkcoen

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Welcome to the M1010 club.

As Lavarok mentioned your problems are not over. I tried fixing the Duvac because replacing it with the battery equalizer is fairly expensive. What I wound up doing was wasting a lot of time trying to fix it only to have it come up again and again. In the end I bit the bullet and did the fix and haven't had a problem with that since.

Here's the thread to read about fixing it right:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/electrical/37909-m1010-no-more-duvac.html
 

lavarok

Well-known member
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There are two 52210 equalizers on Ebay right now. I can not vouch for them, but if they work then the price is right. You need a battery equalizer and you need to read the thread mkcoen linked above.

I don't mind answering questions by email or pm, but please don't ask me something I have answered in a thread or post.
 

41cl8m5

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I know this is old but I got good news. No I still have the M1010.

I still need to replace the batteries but I went with the 100amp equalizer and removed all the Duvac wiring. In removing the ducav components I found the duvac was not like the one in the wiring diagrams, mine only had 3 post, looks like a battery isolater was in use. I still had the relay unit next to it. I could not figure out why some wires were spliced and others were just taped off. I went with lavarok's rout M1010 - No more DUVAC!! I removed the useless wiring and added 3 cables to the unit. I got the used equalizer that was listed on ebay and was not sure if it was actualy working, the guy I bought it from had no idea.

The only thing I did different was the breakers I used were not automatic resetting. I used a 75a on the 24volt sidde and a 120a on the 12volt side. The paperwork on the equalizer recomended the 75A for the 24volt side and a 125A for the 12v side. Could not find a 125a one for a reasonable price. I was already into this for alot of money, I don't think I'll miss the 5amps. Both breakers have a push to trip feature, my wife does not use this vehical but for shows and paraids so being able to shut down the equalizer seems to me to be the best option. The only downfall to this is the need to open the hood the activate the disconect and also to reset the breakers to get the equlizer operating again.

Well I did the change over two months ago and everything seems to work. Today I went to start it up and it fired right over after no action for a month. Before the mod, after 2 weeks no joy. So with the bad batteries the drain that I have been dealing with looks to be gone. I'm still keeping my fingers crossed because the drain seemed to be intermittant.

I needed to cut the "blow out" plastic elbow on the coolant overflow bottle to move the equalizer more forward so i was able to put the windsheild fluid bottle back on the fender just a little back. Clearance is tight with the hood hinge almost closed I have about 1" of space.

I will post pictures later

I would like to thank everyone for their help and to lavarok for his posting.

Next is the air conditioning.
 
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Recovry4x4

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I've been reading all of the M1010 posts alot lately. I've gone through the "No More Duvac" thread a dozen times comparing it to the schematic. I'm going to work my way into the 1010 and I'm pretty sure I have a grasp on what I'll need to get it done right. Thanks to the both of you for useful posts.
 

41cl8m5

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Littleton, CO
I got red, black and yellow battery cable wires. The red is 24volt positive tied to the buss bar on the fire wall. The black is for ground and is also tied to the buss bar gound terminal. The yellow is between both batteries for the 12 volt feed. I then ran wire from the lower alt to the upper alt for the exiter wire.

I think the upper alt was electricaly disconnected at the duvac, that may have been why the front batt was going dead and the rear was overcharging. I also studied the charging diagrams from the TMs and what I had came close but the 12 volt part of the circut was not working correctly. I also think the duvac regulator may have been grounding I had put hours into what was going on.

When I started to remove the duvac wiring there was splices and cut wires and other wires added all inside of the plastic casing. No wonder I could not figure it out. The new set up has only three wires and rewiring the top alt the same as the lower. Very simple in comparison.

You can see the cut off overflow plastic elbow. I used 3/4" aluminum straps to secure the equlizer to the fender, also the windshield washer bottle was reattached the same way. I used one flat head screw to secure the strap to the fender and the bottle to the stra ps. I have a 12 volt meter and an alarm that will go off if the voltage drops, I need to install the unit under the dash. I think having this will complete the mod.

Anyway this is my wifes ride and yes the lights (light bar, alternating headlights and rear lights) and siren work. I get to work on it but she is the boss. My ride is a 1968 M35A2 some day I am going to fix it up.
 

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41cl8m5

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Just an update:

Still using the batteries that came with the truck. The charging system is working great. The only issue now is operator error, sometimes the wife forgets to turn the light switch to off. I found what the drain is if its left on, a relay is energized to operate the roof mount spot light and control for the light operation in the box.


Best thing I have done thanks to lavarox and everyone else for the info.
 
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