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M1010 Engine Wont Shut Off!

brazengoat06

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2
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Location
Tulsa, OK
Im guessing this is a fuel shut off solenoid issue but i didnt find any info concerning this problem. The truck will usually stay running for 1 sec up to about 2 minutes and then finally shut down. Im worried i wont be able to turn it off at all if i dont figure this out. Anyone out there with this issue or advice. Thanks
 

brazengoat06

Member
362
2
16
Location
Tulsa, OK
Ignition switch seems to function properly. I'm gonna try tapping the pump in a few. What does the red wire tell? Also what does tapping the IP do? Thanks
 

cucvrus

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The red wire will disconnect the 12 volts to the pump. It should shut the engine off immediately when the power is disconnected. If not the LIGHT tapping will jar the switch and help close the valve. I hope that helps. This may be an intermittent failure and it may shut off normally everyday except once. I have seen one running with no power. I tapped LIGHTLY it shut off and I never had the problem again. Worth a look see. I hope that helps.
 

cucvrus

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IMHO you may have had a piece of dirt of what I call a fluke. I had one do it to me and I just did the disconnect and light tapping. I put a QT of ATF in it and ran it. Never done it again. Is this one that has been sitting around and seldom driven by chance?
 

brazengoat06

Member
362
2
16
Location
Tulsa, OK
mine does it every time i try to shut it down. i put a meter on the red wire and key on i have 13 volts running, and when i turn the key off i have 1 volt. I did unplug the wire again and it died immediately. 1 volt should not be able to keep this solenoid working. No this truck is driven frequently.

BTW when the engine does finally shut off the voltage reading is 0 volts
 

cucvrus

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Could be. I would also just add a ground to the pump and see if that helps it. I have several added grounds on my vehicles. Engine block to frame and frame to core support on both sides and a few extras to the buss bar and firewall. I think I have the grounding covered. I did it to stop slight flickering of LED licence lamp when turn and flashers was on. It solved the issue. Not saying your will be solved but no harm in trying.
 

brazengoat06

Member
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16
Location
Tulsa, OK
but when i cycle the key with the engine off i get B+ and then 0 volts (key on then key off) i only get the 1 volt when the engine is running after the key is off
 

cucvrus

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? that is hard to diagnose from afar. I have no idea of any wires that may be chaffed or changed. That is all I know without a look see. Sounds simple enough.
 

cucvrus

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I must admit I know about as much about electrical items as I do about brain surgery. So I am not going to try and BS you. I know enough to get by and that is all I ever needed. I have a few good test lights and a Fluke meter. All I ever needed. So you know more then me about electric if you can use them terms. Good Luck.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
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Location
galveston/Texas
mine stuck all the time. I kept a 12 inch piece of 1/2 pipe in the truck so i could tap on the ip to shut it off. I have a rebuilt pump being installed now so i hope that stops it.

The 1 volt may be able to hold the swithc once it is engaged and since it is probably sticking some anyway. Run some two stroke thought it on the next few tanks. I put 1 quart in every tank on my truck once the problem started and it relieved the issue about %50 of the time. You have some transient voltage coming from somewhere in the electrical system. I do not know what kind of radios and other equipment you have but it could be an accessory device bleading voltage back to your grounds or fuse panel. If you have a bunch of accessories, start pulling fuses on them one by one and see if it gets rid of the 1 volt. Alternator diode may be going also.

The valve can stick with no power so one volt can make it stay open, it will start sticking and get worse without some lube. I think it is just an age thing with the IP's my last 1009 did it on occasion also.
 

brazengoat06

Member
362
2
16
Location
Tulsa, OK
im running transmission fluid through it now and no luck so far. The weird thing about the 1 volt is that it is only when the truck is running and the ignition is turned off. When the ignition is on and the engine is off I have 0 volts. So im picking up interference I would think. However I have everything switched off at this moment, even with the master light switch in the off position. Im also guessing that its not ignition switch related due to 0 volts with ignition on and engine off.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
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Location
galveston/Texas
that is a function of the dual voltage alternators. when you turn the truck off you turn the exciter wire off to the 12V alternator. This effectively kills the electrical field in the alternator and thus the 12V is not being produced. The second alternator is now not putting out 12 volts and not the 24. This actually back feeds through the 12V alternator since it is isolated ground and puts a small amount of voltage back to the 12v side of things through the alternator.

Everything is actually working correctly.

It is not good to run these truck with only one alternator, It can burn stuff up.

You just need a new IP shut off valve. one volt will hold it when it is already trying to stick
 
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