M1010 - No more DUVAC!!

[TexAndy]

I don't know about the LED, but 16.1 doesn't sound really bad. The front one was the one that was overcharged/undercharged all those times, right? If it wasn't working at all, the front would be charging at 26+ Volts, wouldn't it?

 

[lavarok]

Well back to square 1 or at least 1.5.

LED is not coming on. Front batt is charging at 16.1 while the rear is at 14.6. The LED came on once this morning as I saw it through the open hood while I was starting it and then it went out and hasn't been seen since.

Any way to test the equalizer outside of the system? I hate to think something has gone haywire with it already.

Is the duvac removed? How did you rewire the top alternator?

 

[mkcoen]

Is the duvac removed? How did you rewire the top alternator?

DUVAC is removed and the top alt is wired straight to the 24v bus bar and the top IGN is wired to the bottom IGN.

I'm getting 30v coming in to the batt equalizer and 16.2 going out. Maybe need to turn down the top alt regulator?

 

[Crash_AF]

Yea, I'd try turning down the top alt to as close to 28V as you can get it.

Later,
Joe

 

[lavarok]

Check the regulators on both alts. Just be careful when you reinstall them as the metal prongs can push the metal sleeves into the housing on the alt if your off center. In which case, you'll need to take it apart to reseat the metal sleeves.

I believe my two are at the middle position. You have three settings to choose from. I believe they were set to high from the factory.

 

[docfarmall]

Thank you for the wealh of information here

 

[natem]

I spent the afternoon removing the DUVAC in my M1010. Here are a few photos.

 

[lavarok]

YAY, no more duvac for you!

What are you going to use for 12v?

 

[natem]

100 amp Sure power, ouch! Thanks for the info in this thread.

 

[natem]

I finished the DUVAC replacement this past Saturday.

Using the DUVAC wire to hook up the 100amp Sure power equalizer. It us protected by fuse-link wire.

I also removed the top alternator. I think 100amp 24 volt alt should be enough.

In pic #1 you can see the mounting plate, it is 3/16 plate drilled to use the original mount bolts.

 

[lavarok]

Wow, those new Sure Power units look cool.

I think your wires are undersized given the 100 amp potential that the DUVAC never had.

 

[natem]

They are the same as the wire for the 100 amp Alt. The worst that will happen is a burnt fuse-link. (I hope) I just thought 4ga wire was extreme over kill.

 

[RaginCajun]

Today I start removing the DUVAC from my M1010 in preparation for the Sure Power 100 install. I may ask for technical assistance from you guys if that's ok. This Thread has been a wealth of knowledge and experience!

 

[papakb]

Here's a link to a PulseTech battery charge monitor. PulseTech is the company that's been supplying the Solargizers to the military for years now. This particular unit lists for over $800 but they showed up on the GL market a short while back for some reason and now they're here. I installed one in my HMMWV ambulance as a source of 12 volt power. Plenty of fused connections for power.

***** removed eBay link. DO NOT post eBay links *****

 

[41cl8m5]

This is what I did: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?68461-M1010-Electrical-Drain-on-front-Batt .

papakb, I saw that unit also, does the pulsing part work without the solar panel? and is there a continuos draw from the batteries?
Just thinking this would be great for the M35a2 to get 12v, would be alot simpler than adding a 12v alt or a 24v to 12v converter assembly.

Thanks

 

[m38inmaine]

Correct me if I am wrong but it doesn't look to me like it reduces 24 to 12 as it has a 12v and 24v input cable. It looks to me as if it just provides multiple fused connections and some sort of charge pulsing. I went to the site to look for a manual but I don't see one. The site does show it as a whole kit and the ebay unit does not include all the items. It shows a solar panel as part of the kit so I am wondering if there is a drain on the batteries when the truck is off.

 

[RaginCajun]

Thank you guys for the input.

41cl8m5, I was looking for your post the other day because I remember you had pics of the install. Thanks for sharing.

I'm new to the site. Picked up this U.S. Navy M1010 from a neighbor recently. It was all green originally but had a funky camo job added to it at some point. Sat in his back yard for years...he kept telling me it had low miles but I just figured the odometer flipped. After close inspection of the vehicle, I was surprised the 2,765.6 mileage was legit. It's had all the common 1010 electrical problems but hopefully this mod will end them all. Here are a few pics:



I will continue working on her after Christmas.

 

[natem]

Looking good, your well on the way to trouble free charging.

 

[cuffnstuff]

I have been reading and trying to figure out my m1010's issues, which seem to be common, but I am lost and need some help.
Problems:
Front Battery not charging/ goes dead when sitting; rear is fine and getting approx 15 volts
Top generator not putting out any power when tested at the terminal on the back, but exciter has power (bad generator?)
Otherwise all seems well with the truck, and she runs and drives great. It seems the best thing to do is remove the DUVAC system and replace it with one of the surefire units like you guys have. Do I need to use both generators, or if the top on is bad, can I use just the lower one? I want to make this as reliable as I can without spending a fortune, and the ocean of wires under the hood has me lost; I have 5 gallons of gas and a road flare as my back-up plan; lol -any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[bluesteel]

I am at the same stage as you are. I have a 84 m1010. Does any one have the answer to this question? I took my top alternator in to get rebuilt. It looks like maybe its not bad.