m1010 Stalling/ Wont go over 5mph

[m1010freedom]

you can remove the motor mount bolt and put a jack under that side of engine and pick it up some, if your fenders are not rusted out, removing the passenger tire and inner fender makes it real easy especially once jacked up a couple of inches.

Going to try that next weekend so i can plate it off! Just want her running so i can leave tonight on a camping trip. Thanks for all the help so far. Its awesome that i can get responses on here so fast. You guys rock.

 

[m1010freedom]

She ran for 10 minuets after I put the electrical pump along the frame rail right under the passenger door behind this plate I had to take off. I took the inlet line off of the old lifter pump and put it on the inlet to the screw on fuel filter. When i started her up the first time, the pump went quiet no clicking and it ran for about 5-10 minuets then sputtered and died. Now everytime i turn the electric fuel pump on, it is clicking and when i go to start her she sputters and dies.

Not sure what else to do. I thought maybe there was still air in the lines. Maybe that is still true but when i take the line off the inlet to the fuel filter it's pumping pretty good

 

[dependable]

Is fuel return line working?

Won't comment on electric pump system , as I don't know what you have, but if you keep it electric, it would be good to put a block off plate where mechanical pump is, as it can develop a pretty good oil leak when its diaphragm goes out.

 

[m1010freedom]

I have the block off plate already. Just can't seem to get the mechanical pump out. The bolt facing the rear is almost impossible for me to get to.

Not sure where the fuel return line is

 

[cucvrus]

Just a word of advise. I can change a lift pump in about an hour. I do it all from the top side except the 2 M10 bolts on the cover plate. I remove them last and tighten them last. Like I said. If you are going to remove the pump and you have the front bolt removed . Break the pump off and get to that rear bolt. It is possible that the bolt is frozen into the aluminum housing of the pump. I do remove the right alternator from the mounting brackets. But I do not disconnect anything from the alternator. I know the M1010 has Leese Nevilles. But same goes. Get that area top side opened up so you can access that fuel pump. Hey just trying to help. Hope it is helpful tips. I really like challenges so everything is a simple task to me. I do things all the time that others complain and curse about. I fail at reading technical manuals and the inner workings of things. I think the 7/16"/11mm short socket a 1" extension and a 3/8" long swivel head ratchet. Preferably a fine tooth Snap-On ratchet. Good tools make a world of difference. Good Luck Report back.

 

[m1010freedom]

Just a word of advise. I can change a lift pump in about an hour. I do it all from the top side except the 2 M10 bolts on the cover plate. I remove them last and tighten them last. Like I said. If you are going to remove the pump and you have the front bolt removed . Break the pump off and get to that rear bolt. It is possible that the bolt is frozen into the aluminum housing of the pump. I do remove the right alternator from the mounting brackets. But I do not disconnect anything from the alternator. I know the M1010 has Leese Nevilles. But same goes. Get that area top side opened up so you can access that fuel pump. Hey just trying to help. Hope it is helpful tips. I really like challenges so everything is a simple task to me. I do things all the time that others complain and curse about. I fail at reading technical manuals and the inner workings of things. I think the 7/16"/11mm short socket a 1" extension and a 3/8" long swivel head ratchet. Preferably a fine tooth Snap-On ratchet. Good tools make a world of difference. Good Luck Report back.

Appreciate the advice! Do you know if my problem could be something else entirely? Not sure where my Oil Pressure Switch is but some people on other threads were saying that it could be an oil pressure switch as well.

 

[porkysplace]

Appreciate the advice! Do you know if my problem could be something else entirely? Not sure where my Oil Pressure Switch is but some people on other threads were saying that it could be an oil pressure switch as well.

The oil pressure switch is on the back of the motor . If you look in the parts TM's ( TM's ending in -P ) they have illustrations of the parts along with part numbers. A bad oil pressure switch won't keep it from running , well unless there is no oil pressure and it locks up.

 

[WARWAG]

The problem is definately a fuel delivery problem. Is it the new fuel filter system? Mechanical pump? I always start searching for the problem on what was touched last. This will be the problem 95% of the time. So going with that let me ask you a few questions if you don't mind.

1. What was the last thing you did to the truck before this issue occurred? No mater how minor.
2. How long ago was the filter changed?
3. At any time did you run the tank LOW?
4. Did you fill your tank shortly before this issue occurred?
5. Does the fuel smell like Diesel? Open your fuel cap and smell. If you even get a hint of GAS let us know.

My guess is that it has something to do with the fuel filter system. Just a guess from 457 miles away.

 

[m1010freedom]

-The fuel filter is a new screw on type filter maybe a month or two old, with a pre-filter on it. I checked the pre filter and its 100% clean.
-The last thing i touched before this happened was the box in the back we are building it out. Other than that i have just been driving it.
-My gauge varies when i hit the gas so its hard to tell what its at. But when its idling its at half and thats when it started having problems
- I was originally thinking it was bad diesel but what made me think it wasn't was the fact that it happened at half a tank not right away.
- It also smells like diesel not gas so i didn't accidentally put in gas haha

Since this first happened I have:
-Checked the injector pump was getting 12 volts
-bypassed the mechanical fuel pump (what i originally thought went out) by disconnecting the inlet to the mechanical and bending the tube upwards and attaching a soft tube to the inlet of the fuel filter.
-Installed a electric fuel pump ( rated at 4-7psi) at the first break in the steel line
- Tried bleeding the lines by using the bleeder valve on the fuel filter until only diesel was coming out.
- Checked the inlet hose to see if it was pumping.... It was.
-Checked the outlet line to see if it was pumping... It was.

Not sure what else to really do.

What is happening now is it fires up with a half throttle and when i hold it there it will run then after 2-3 minuets it was sputter out and die.

I also noticed that the electric fuel pump will make a clicking noise like its not getting any fuel through it. But when I take the inlet to the fuel filter its pumping...???

 

[FrankenCub]

If the new electric pump is rated for 4-7 psi it may be at it's low end. Check your fuel pressure after the filter befor the IP. I think the TM states you need a minimum of 2 psi before the IP. Possible it isn't keeping up with the IP?

 

[m1010freedom]

Whats the best way to measure the psi after the fuel filter? And to be honest i don't think its that because when i undid the outlet hose it would hold a steady stream out into the cup i was holding under it

 

[FrankenCub]

A low pressure/vacuum gauge is what I use, old school tune gauge usually used for pre-80's cars and trucks on a hose at the filter outlet. A lot of other options available as long as it's for low pressure. A gauge for modern fuel injected engines won't be accurate. Even 1/2 psi will produce a stream of fuel but won't be enough to supply the IP consistently.

 

[m1010freedom]

So i decided to bypass most of the fuel system and go straight into the injector pump. I used a bottle full of diesel and gravity fed the diesel using clear lines into the injector pump. I also put a clear line on the return line of the injector pump.

I noticed two things when I did this. One was when i used a small vacuum hand pump on the return line of the injector pump it wouldn't stop bubbling almost as if there was an air leak somewhere in the injector pump???

Also, after the engine would ultimately cut out, the return line off of the injector pump would be half full and would slowly start going back into the injector pump. Not sure how normal that is?

Any ideas?

 

[dependable]

Probably time for a IP.

 

[m1010freedom]

Is there any way to know for sure. I really dont want to drop 600 bucks on fa new IP if its not 99% the IP

 

[cucvrus]

This vehicle came with a binder with every wire that has been changed or cut. What each wire is. With notes and highlighted diagrams in the wireing and any engine modifications. Im sure the next owner will be fine since i plan on keeping things going with this binder.

Double check everything in the binder. At this point I or anybody else does not know what has been changed and modified. It could be a fuel restriction timing or anything else. Hard to say with all the changes have been made. But if I had to lay money down. I would lay it on the injection pump. That injection pump is 90% of the engine function. Once started that is all that is needed to keep the engine going. You do have compression and 12 volts to the top of the pump. Not much more left except precise timing and pressure delivered by the injection pump. Good Luck.

 

[m1010freedom]

Anyone you guys recommend getting IP rebuilt from?