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M1010 Starter Button

SandM1010

New member
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Location
Franklin/MA
Quick question about my M1010. I am currently having a starting problem and before I get to deep into it I want to see if anyone has the same starter setup as my truck. It has a standard key ignition switch but you only turn this to the on position. once the glow plug light goes out, there is a red push button starter switch on the dash that you push and hold until the truck starts. is this stock?
thanks
 

Recovry4x4

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Odds are it isn't the keyswitch. That cylinder has a rod that actuates a switch on the top of the column above the pedals. There is also a start relay under the dash in the area behind the radio blockoff plate. In the CUCV forum check out the helpful threads stickies. There is a wealth of info there broken down into specific areas of concern. Is your charging system still stock? 2 alternators, blue DUVAC box on the inner left fender? Lots (too many) of M1010s have been converted to 12V. Detailed pics of the engine compartment may help us see if it has been heavily modified.
 

Tinstar

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It always amazes me the lengths guys will go to bypass a problem, instead of just fixing the problem.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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It always amazes me the lengths guys will go to bypass a problem, instead of just fixing the problem.
Bingo. You are a winner. I see the carnage every week of these poor trucks that get into the hands of hackers. They cut everything out and add everything and still can't get them to run and start. I know a lot of bad information is out there. And many act like it is sworn gospel. I am guilty of converting M1010's to plow trucks. At the time I did not have any use for them. I still don't. I know guys that can't get the truck to start but they are putting lift kits and big tires on them. It must be something I don't understand. All vehicles require maintenance. 30+ year old vehicles may require a little more depending how you use them. Great subject and it gets my gut every time I see the poor hacked up vehicles of all sorts. Have a good day. Used hard and maintained harder is the key. It's a simple task.
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
Bingo. You are a winner. I see the carnage every week of these poor trucks that get into the hands of hackers. They cut everything out and add everything and still can't get them to run and start. I know a lot of bad information is out there. And many act like it is sworn gospel. I am guilty of converting M1010's to plow trucks. At the time I did not have any use for them. I still don't. I know guys that can't get the truck to start but they are putting lift kits and big tires on them. It must be something I don't understand. All vehicles require maintenance. 30+ year old vehicles may require a little more depending how you use them. Great subject and it gets my gut every time I see the poor hacked up vehicles of all sorts. Have a good day. Used hard and maintained harder is the key. It's a simple task.
When I built my Jeep, decades ago, I painted "If it don't run, chrome it" on the rear cross member.
That writing has had to be touched up a few times over the years, but there's still nothing shiny on the Jeep. It runs good, though.
 

SandM1010

New member
14
7
3
Location
Franklin/MA
I have had this M1010 for a number of years. When I first got the truck I was having problems keeping the batteries charged. I did make the conversion posted under M1010's to remove the blue box and one 24 volt alternator. I replaced it with a heavy truck 12 volt version of the same make that fit the stock mounts. My charging system has been great for several years know. I have both 24 volt and 12 volt with no problems.
I converted the rear to a camper and use the truck for surf fishing trips to the beach. Propane stove, sink, fresh water and grey water tanks. It's been a great reliable truck and always gets positive comments.
I'm sure once I take a look into the new starting problem it will be a simple fix
 

TechnoWeenie

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It always amazes me the lengths guys will go to bypass a problem, instead of just fixing the problem.
Guilty as charged...

My ignition cylinder froze... couldn't remove it.....

So I pulled out the actual switch at the base of the column, remove the rod, and actuate the switch manually...

Just waiting for a warm day to wire in a 'boat' keyed ignition switch w/ accessory AND push to choke, which will be wired to the glow plugs.. Put key in ignition, rotate to 'ON', PUSH key in and hold to power glow plugs, then crank over and let it run.... It was either $40 and a couple hours... or disassembling the entire steering column, and having more issues pop up... :p
 

SandM1010

New member
14
7
3
Location
Franklin/MA
yes steering columns are a pain. I just removed the entire dash and column from an old Scout to paint the metal dash and it was a pain to put everything back together.
 
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