M1010 weird hum & vibration from motor

[squaretaper]

Had the GP relay go out halfway between WI and MA and sorted it out right then and there with a push button GP system. I'd love to get it cleaner under the hood so I'll give the Simple Green and gentle powerwash a try. I've redone a good percentage of the wiring in the engine bay with Anchor or other high quality stuff so not super worried about that.

 

[squaretaper]

Picked the truck up from the local shop today- guy didn't do much other than test drive it and said he thought it was the IP. I took it to the shop, changed the fuel filter (spin on on my truck) even though I just did it 1500mi ago, and poured a liberal amount of Diesel Kleen in the tank (and a capful in the new filter). Started her up and wow, idle way up and much smoother, quieter. Test drive revealed the problem still present, though, 1500 and 2000+ RPM bad vibration and hum. Thinking the rough idle and running and the vibration were 2 different problems, perhaps, and I may have half-solved one. I don't doubt the IP may need a rebuild, though- the tag stamped "E" that Chaski noted is not present on my pump.

Went trough a bunch of things and did notice the truck really doesn't want to shift into N or 4L on the transfer case. No problem between 2H and 4H but I've got to shift between D and P a number of times and keep trying the shift to 4L and eventually it'll go. Not sure if that indicates a related problem with the transfercase and the buzzing/humming vibration. I'll take a closer look tomorrow when there's light.

 

[Chaski]

Picked the truck up from the local shop today- guy didn't do much other than test drive it and said he thought it was the IP. I took it to the shop, changed the fuel filter (spin on on my truck) even though I just did it 1500mi ago, and poured a liberal amount of Diesel Kleen in the tank (and a capful in the new filter). Started her up and wow, idle way up and much smoother, quieter. Test drive revealed the problem still present, though, 1500 and 2000+ RPM bad vibration and hum. Thinking the rough idle and running and the vibration were 2 different problems, perhaps, and I may have half-solved one. I don't doubt the IP may need a rebuild, though- the tag stamped "E" that Chaski noted is not present on my pump.

Went trough a bunch of things and did notice the truck really doesn't want to shift into N or 4L on the transfer case. No problem between 2H and 4H but I've got to shift between D and P a number of times and keep trying the shift to 4L and eventually it'll go. Not sure if that indicates a related problem with the transfercase and the buzzing/humming vibration. I'll take a closer look tomorrow when there's light.

That is too bad that your pump does not have the "E" tag. That means you still have the old urethane governor weight retainer that falls apart.

 

[squaretaper]

Chaski- is the replacement part something I can order and install? The PO was running WVO full time, I've mostly run ULSD but some WVO as well and I'm wondering if that may be a contributing factor to IP issues?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Went trough a bunch of things and did notice the truck really doesn't want to shift into N or 4L on the transfer case. No problem between 2H and 4H but I've got to shift between D and P a number of times and keep trying the shift to 4L and eventually it'll go. Not sure if that indicates a related problem with the transfercase and the buzzing/humming vibration. I'll take a closer look tomorrow when there's light.

That shift really needs to be completed in neutral. My SOP is to slow to a crawl, 2MPH or so, toss trans in neutral then shift transfer case while still in a slight roll. Makes the shift easily.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Dynamo humm dynamo humm where's that dynamo comin from

I thought my M135 was almost perfect until I got in a 'tight' M135. Seems like there's always one more nut that could be tightened to make it better. It's real nice to get into a similar truck for vibration comparisons. Sometimes the noisy bunny can be right in front of our eyes and we can't see it.



My 1010 has a stiff TC shifter as well, sometimes. It's still new so I'm just breaking it in. The manual says it happens. After locking in the hubs, applying P brake, placing transmission in N, the manual suggests we may need to release the P, put the trans in D, move and retry.

I park on a wee hill, slip the brake a little and that seems to help the TC gears mesh. Sounds like you're getting closer so can't wait for the video, pics and troubleshooting manual to come out.

 

[M37M35]

That shift really needs to be completed in neutral. My SOP is to slow to a crawl, 2MPH or so, toss trans in neutral then shift transfer case while still in a slight roll. Makes the shift easily.

Yes, try it with the transmission in neutral and see how it works.

I'd strongly suspect the harmonic balancer. My dad has a truck with the 6.2 that had a similar vibration. Turns out the bolt that holds the HB loosened up and the HB was loose on the crank. The HB looked good and we didn't know that was the issue until we went to replace it. It had been loose long enough to waller out the key-ways causing the HB to be off a couple degrees, causing the vibration.

We repaired the key-way and replaced the HB. No more vibration.

 

[squaretaper]

Sounds like I'll be pulling the HB and replacing it to see if that sorts it out. Recommendations for a replacement part?

 

[Chaski]

Chaski- is the replacement part something I can order and install? The PO was running WVO full time, I've mostly run ULSD but some WVO as well and I'm wondering if that may be a contributing factor to IP issues?

The retainers just fail. That is why Stanadyne abandoned the design and went to an all steel weight retainer. You can get a gasket kit, with a new urethane ring if you want to try a diy repair. If you try to repair it yourself expect that it may not work... but then again it may.

There are some special tools you need. You need a fixture to bolt the pump to (an old engine block works), and you need a way to ensure you put the advance cam back on the throttle shaft in the same spot. The tool for it is a Kent J-29601, you can find them used sometimes for less than $30. You could probably do it without the tool if you took quality photos before you took it apart and made your best effort to clock it exactly the same as it was. You might also be able to mix up some knead able epoxy and cast a tool before you take it apart to use when you put it back. It is all explained in the TM, and it isn't actually that hard to do if you keep your workspace squeaky clean. You can get a gasket kit for the pump, and a new urethane ring for cheap.




http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/17930.jpg

 

[squaretaper]

Played around a bit today trying to get closer to the problem- pulled the fan (PO installed a flex fan) and took it for a spin- better but the droning vibration is still there, and the idle still has a miss here and there when warm. Much quieter and a heck of a lot more power, seemingly, without that flex fan; may have to look into a Windstar electric fan conversion, (there is a 14" aux fan set up already as a pusher outside the radiator) or simply hunt down a clutch fan. Took off the belts and checked water pump and P/S pump for play or bearing problems- both feel good and tight. Thinking that the improvement from the fan being off adds weight to at least some of the problem being the harmonic balancer- going to order a HB and a 16mm x 1.5 pitch bolt for my puller; having heard bad things about Dorman stuuf, assuming the AC Delco is the way to go?

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-14022671-Original-Equipment-Crankshaft/dp/B0049Z398C

None of that, of course, changes anything regarding the 30yr old IP, so it makes sense to me to replace it or have it rebuilt. Sounds like I could take the rebuild on myself but it also sounds like this would be one of those times where I would trade the fun and frustration of such a job for the peace of mind and cost of paying someone who knows what they are doing do it. Seems there are a few 300 dollar ebay rebuilders, and I've asked local shops for reman prices. Also, I have no information about the age or condition of the injectors themselves. Called around looking for a shop that can test the injectors (and comp test the cylinders while the injectors are out) and people here in RI are telling me they send stuff out to Maine or CT. Will keep at it Monday.

Thanks all for the helpful leads!

 

[squaretaper]

UPDATE- finally got a new HB (AC Delco) and installed it today. That was the problem. The old one didn't look bad but there was some cracking and wear in the rubber. With the new HB installed (not a difficult task) she's back on the road (took her up to 75mph, which is just scary in a CUCV anyway) and the nasty vibration is gone. I'd advise anyone with a phantom vibration that is RPM related to start with the HB.

Thanks all for the help. I know I still need to deal with the IP, but that'll have to wait until summer and the MB 300D is out of the shop with new rockers and floor pans- the M1010 will be my daily driver for the winter while I work on the car.