M1010 will not start.....

[WARWAG]

A few months ago I ran into a strange issue. When I would start my CUCV I would smell an electrical burnt plastic smell. I knew instantly it was my Glow Plug card. So I disconeected it and continued on my daily travels. I parked the vehicle and pulled the card. No issues except every time I started it I needed to pull the card. After of few weeks of being parked I discovered that the Starter Relay was the wrong one. I replaced it with one from Hilly Billy Wizard. I also ordered a new glow plug card. After installing the new Relay and tossing the old incorrect one my vehicle will not start. The fuel injector pump seems not to be sending fuel. What am I missing?

 

[87cr250r]

If it has sat for an extended period of time and the fuel pump is older, a bad throttle shaft seal will allow the fuel injection pump to drain back into the tank. You'll need to go through the priming process as if you put a new injection pump on to get everything going. A new lift pump can mask the throttle shaft. Seal problem for a short time.

 

[WARWAG]

Will check and see if the bleeder valve spews diesel out when I get home. Last night I went out and looked at it and the two wires coming from the top of the fuel filter manifold (red and black) were completely chewed through. Are those for the "water in fuel" sensor?

 

[cucvrus]

Look in the valley of the engine under the intake manifold. Does it appear wet after attempting to start it or after setting a while after being started. That could be the throttle shaft screws, a loose clamp or a cracked rubber hose in the fuel system. I even encountered worn thru steel fuel lines. Not rusted thru but worn thru. Also check all lines for rust thru including the fuel return lines and hoses. This is 40-year-old rubber and it gets old and cracks. The fuel system must be airtight and will NOT always leak fluid if it is not airtight. It can just leak air into the system and vent enough to allow the fuel system to lose prime. Good Luck.

 

[chevymike]

First thing I would check is the fuel shut off solenoid. If that is not opening, no fuel will get through the IP. Mine went bad, where I could hear a "click" but it wasn't moving enough to open the valve. I replaced it with a new one that went "CLICK" and it started right up. If you have chewed wires, it's possible they chewed through the IP solenoid wire somewhere. I also had a bad fuse to that circuit, that likely blew when the solenoid died. Start simple, check wiring to make sure you are getting 12v to that terminal, when in run and crank mode with the key.

 

[chevymike]

Will check and see if the bleeder valve spews diesel out when I get home. Last night I went out and looked at it and the two wires coming from the top of the fuel filter manifold (red and black) were completely chewed through. Are those for the "water in fuel" sensor?

I think those are the fuel heater. I think the WIF wires are at the bottom.

 

[WARWAG]

I will check first thing in the morning. Thanks.

 

[WARWAG]

OK here is the latest. went out and checked the voltage going to the Relay. Its 24 Volts. Not 12 but 24. I disconnected the relay wire on the 24 volt block going to the resistors and just ran 12 volts straight to the glow plug relay. Measured the voltage to the glow plugs and its 11.98. changed fuel filter and primed it. I've been getting fuel to the injection pump. Im wondering now if my glow plugs are fried? Should I crack an injector and try and bleed the system? I need to check my glow plugs next for sure. So the resistors seem to be not "resisting" anymore. Are there replacements or should I just run a dedicated 12 volt wire to the glow plug solenoid?

 

[ezgn]

OK here is the latest. went out and checked the voltage going to the Relay. Its 24 Volts. Not 12 but 24. I disconnected the relay wire on the 24 volt block going to the resistors and just ran 12 volts straight to the glow plug relay. Measured the voltage to the glow plugs and its 11.98. changed fuel filter and primed it. I've been getting fuel to the injection pump. Im wondering now if my glow plugs are fried? Should I crack an injector and try and bleed the system? I need to check my glow plugs next for sure. So the resistors seem to be not "resisting" anymore. Are there replacements or should I just run a dedicated 12 volt wire to the glow plug solenoid?

watch this video. it should help you.

 

[Keith_J]

OK here is the latest. went out and checked the voltage going to the Relay. Its 24 Volts. Not 12 but 24. I disconnected the relay wire on the 24 volt block going to the resistors and just ran 12 volts straight to the glow plug relay. Measured the voltage to the glow plugs and its 11.98. changed fuel filter and primed it. I've been getting fuel to the injection pump. Im wondering now if my glow plugs are fried? Should I crack an injector and try and bleed the system? I need to check my glow plugs next for sure. So the resistors seem to be not "resisting" anymore. Are there replacements or should I just run a dedicated 12 volt wire to the glow plug solenoid?

Resistors only drop voltage as a proportion to current. With no current, there is no voltage drop. Resistors don't fail short, they fail open.

The controller will interrupt glow plug current if voltage is above 16.4 as measured on the thin orange wire going to the controller.
This thin wire needs to be on the output stud of the solenoid. There are two thick orange wires, each branches off to the glow plugs, one each side.

 

[WARWAG]

I hooked everything back up and went to both ends of each side of the glow plug harness. Each side reads 24 volts when the glow plug is cycling. Isn't the card supposed to regulate it to no more than 16 volts? Well my new card from Hill Billy Wizard isn't. Need to have a word with them. Anyway. Not sure what's going on. I suspect the Resistors are bad since they are on a load and they are pushing 24 volts. Im pretty sure at this point all of my 5 year old or so glow plugs are toast. What do you think lol. I will check tomorrow. Trying to do this at the same time getting my garage and house loaded up with the movers.

Here my youtube of it cycling. I cycled the glow plug system twice. Each turn of the key the card cycled the through the glow plug relay 6 times. 24 volts then drops. cycles again to 24 volts and drops for a total of 6 times each time I turned the key to turn on the glow plugs. Hope that makes sense.

Any other suggestions? Can I bypass the resistor and run a 12 volt supply directly from my battery to the glow plug relay? Thanks.
ALSO can someone take a picture of a properly wired up relay? Batt side gets the hot wire from the relay. Orange side is the opposite side. The two smaller terminals get black/ pink and the other side gets what's left can't remember the color right now. Thanks.

I also just ordered a new set fo Glow Plugs. Should arrive by 3 pm Tomorrow/Sunday. My fuel shot off solenoid is clicking and I can feel it So I hope its ok if not Im not sure where people are getting theirs. I checked with NAPA AUTOZONE ORiellys and amazon. Amazon has something but I'm not sure its the right one without taking mine off. I will see how the Glow Plugs work. Hope I can just run a dedicated 12 volt wire from my front battery.......

 

[WARWAG]

Look in the valley of the engine under the intake manifold. Does it appear wet after attempting to start it or after setting a while after being started. That could be the throttle shaft screws, a loose clamp or a cracked rubber hose in the fuel system. I even encountered worn thru steel fuel lines. Not rusted thru but worn thru. Also check all lines for rust thru including the fuel return lines and hoses. This is 40-year-old rubber and it gets old and cracks. The fuel system must be airtight and will NOT always leak fluid if it is not airtight. It can just leak air into the system and vent enough to allow the fuel system to lose prime. Good Luck.

Bone dry.

 

[Curtisje]

I hooked everything back up and went to both ends of each side of the glow plug harness. Each side reads 24 volts when the glow plug is cycling. Isn't the card supposed to regulate it to no more than 16 volts? Well my new card from Hill Billy Wizard isn't. Need to have a word with them. Anyway. Not sure what's going on. I suspect the Resistors are bad since they are on a load and they are pushing 24 volts. Im pretty sure at this point all of my 5 year old or so glow plugs are toast. What do you think lol. I will check tomorrow. Trying to do this at the same time getting my garage and house loaded up with the movers.

Here my youtube of it cycling. I cycled the glow plug system twice. Each turn of the key the card cycled the through the glow plug relay 6 times. 24 volts then drops. cycles again to 24 volts and drops for a total of 6 times each time I turned the key to turn on the glow plugs. Hope that makes sense.

Any other suggestions? Can I bypass the resistor and run a 12 volt supply directly from my battery to the glow plug relay? Thanks.
ALSO can someone take a picture of a properly wired up relay? Batt side gets the hot wire from the relay. Orange side is the opposite side. The two smaller terminals get black/ pink and the other side gets what's left can't remember the color right now. Thanks.

I also just ordered a new set fo Glow Plugs. Should arrive by 3 pm Tomorrow/Sunday. My fuel shot off solenoid is clicking and I can feel it So I hope its ok if not Im not sure where people are getting theirs. I checked with NAPA AUTOZONE ORiellys and amazon. Amazon has something but I'm not sure its the right one without taking mine off. I will see how the Glow Plugs work. Hope I can just run a dedicated 12 volt wire from my front battery.......

Yes,
You can just run a 12v wire strait to the relay to power your glowplugs. It has been detailed on here a few times. A quick search should find a post about it.

I used to smell that burn from time to time. Took me about 2 years to finally figure out it was a ground wire... or lack of. I know you've got a lot to look for right now. When you get a minute read this short post. Good luck.

No Power (electrical) SOLVED

I got in my truck last week and turned the key to find no power whatsoever. I had driven it to work that morning and I was busy so I left it and went back to my office. Later on I went back to it, fiddled with the wires on the junction above the glow plug relay and it started so I drove it home...

steelsoldiers.com

 

[WARWAG]

Yes,
You can just run a 12v wire strait to the relay to power your glowplugs. It has been detailed on here a few times. A quick search should find a post about it.

I used to smell that burn from time to time. Took me about 2 years to finally figure out it was a ground wire... or lack of. I know you've got a lot to look for right now. When you get a minute read this short post. Good luck.

No Power (electrical) SOLVED

I got in my truck last week and turned the key to find no power whatsoever. I had driven it to work that morning and I was busy so I left it and went back to my office. Later on I went back to it, fiddled with the wires on the junction above the glow plug relay and it started so I drove it home...

steelsoldiers.com

Great idea. I will add a few additional grounding wires/straps. Thank you.

 

[Keith_J]

Glow plugs are burned out. No way to cycle faster than the refresh rate on that Klein multimeter.

Ballast resistors cannot fail short, they fail open.

 

[WARWAG]

Well my starting issues are a thing of the past. OK here's what happened from beginning to end roughly . Went to Napa to get a new glow plug solenoid. I believe they gave me the civilian version. (My fault). started having cold start issues and the front battery getting low? Something to do with the civilian solenoid I believe. Took it to my Body Shop to get the back two doors painted. Battery was dead so his guy hooked up a 12 volt charger on the front battery while still connected to the other battery. 4 days later when I showed up to pick it up, That is when I discovered that error. No big deal. She finally started up and off I went happy I had the rear doors (M1010) painted. Again had issues with the glow plugs and replaced the Solenoid with another Civilian one. Then one day I start her up and can smell some burning plastic. Pulled the Glow plug card. Yup its burned. Parked the truck off and on just started it with the card then would pull the card to stop the burning. Way to busy to run the issue down. Then I discover that I was ordering the wrong solenoid. I order the new solenoid and install it. Wont start. Figuring the card is in need of replacement anyway I order a new one. Install it. Still wont start but no burning smell. Now I am into moving to another house mode. Got to get her running. Many helpful hints here and I used all of them (THANK YOU GUYS). Discovered I had 24 volts going to the Glow Plug Solenoid. many questions later I learn my Resistors are bad and just pumping 24 Volts instead of only 12 volts. Figuring this out I figured out all of my glow plugs must be cooked. And they were. Eight brand new AC Delco Glow Plugs and about 8 to 10 feet of 10 Gauge red wire with water proof ring terminals and extra red heat shrink for over kill measures I run a dedicated 12 Volt supply directly to my Glow Plug Solenoid. She started right up after a long constant glow plug WAIT TO START light. It was 34 degrees this morning and she lit right off. Thank you all for helping me out.

 

[87cr250r]

The "civilian solenoid" was probably a starter solenoid. They have two load terminals, a + coil terminal, and a ballast resistor bypass terminal. The case is grounded. If you install one of these it will fry your controller.

The correct solenoid is just that, a general purpose solenoid. The two smaller terminals are + and - for the coil. The case is not grounded.

Your problem was always the bad glow plugs. If you have the right solenoid you can remove the resistor bypass and everything should go back to working normally.

 

[Keith_J]

Ballast resistors only fail open and they don't fail often. Ballast resistors limit current and function as voltage divider but only when there is current.

 

[cucvrus]

When I bought my first CUCV all I heard was the ballasts on the firewall fail all the time. So, in an effort to stay ahead of this I bought every ballast resistor I could find. I invaded EBay and marketplace. In the end after 28 years of CUCV ownership I never had 1 fail. I replaced a few that were missing and sold a few to people that needed them. And in the end, I still have a massive stash of ballast resistors for CUCV's. I did the bypass because I was told to do so and then noticed squealing belts and the front battery draw was causing the belt squealing. So now if I come across any CUCV with the ballast missing or bypassed I am ready with the OEM parts. I had a few ballasts smoke like they were on fire after getting in the mud and crud. I never had any burn or glow red. I keep my CUCV's all stock with the AC Delco 13G glow plugs and never had cascading glow plugs unless I used Wellman's that I was given for free. Good Luck and Take Care.