M1028 Dana 70hd pinion yoke

[erasedhammer]

Anyone know the exact replacement for the pinion yoke on the Dana 70s?
I'm still wrenching on the nut to take it off, but in the mean time I thought I'd go pick up the replacement somewhere.
Summit racing has a few, but theres couple u joint sizes/spline counts to choose from.

 

[cucvrus]

Get the old one out. And contact Yukon axle and gear. https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=3933
They have all the parts you need and are afraid to ask for. Google Dana 70 Pinion Yoke. many options come up. But you need to get the old one off. Good Luck and Have a Great Day.

 

[nyoffroad]

Why are you replacing the yoke? I thought you just needed to replace the u-joints and straps?

 

[erasedhammer]

Why are you replacing the yoke? I thought you just needed to replace the u-joints and straps?

Bolts are seized in the threads of the yoke. U joint is actually fine, just need a new bearing cap, got a little scratched.

 

[doghead]

Just drill them out and cleen up with a tap. Or take it to a shop and have them do it.

 

[erasedhammer]

Just drill them out and cleen up with a tap. Or take it to a shop and have them do it.

Either way I have to get it out, its extremely rusted. Damaged as well. Figured I might as well get a new part.

 

[nyoffroad]

Bolts are seized in the threads of the yoke. U joint is actually fine, just need a new bearing cap, got a little scratched.

Cut the strap and remove the joint then place a good nut on the head of the rounded off bolt and weld it in place, use a SIX point wrench or socket to remove while it's still hot. Problem solved.

 

[erasedhammer]

Cut the strap and remove the joint then place a good nut on the head of the rounded off bolt and weld it in place, use a SIX point wrench or socket to remove while it's still hot. Problem solved.

Driveshaft is already disconnected and both straps are off. The yoke itself is damaged.

I heard heat isn't good for the pinion?

 

[Chaski]

Driveshaft is already disconnected and both straps are off. The yoke itself is damaged.

I heard heat isn't good for the pinion?

The method that nyoffroad is suggesting to remove the strap bolt from the yoke is solid- as in good- as in what I would do. Yeah- heating up the pinion over a few hundred degrees would be bad, but a little localized heat to weld a nut on the fastener is not going to get the yoke and pinion hot enough to screw up the heat treated pinion.

I’m with Cucvrus- pull the yoke, then get ahold of Yukon or Randy’s ring and pinion. Might even be able to get a new yoke that used u-bolts instead of straps (generally accepted as less problematic)

You might want to make up a bar to hold the Yoke. I have a 3’ section of 2x2x.375”angle iron with an old drop hitch welded onto it to make a giant “J” hook that I just put on the yoke and it rests on the ground. That way you can really put some force on that pinion nut when breaking it loose, and torquing it down to spec.

 

[rustystud]

I'm with "Chaski" on replacing the yoke with one that uses "U-bolts" . That is what I did with mine. You can get the yoke online as long as you know the diameter and spline count of the pinion shaft. I bought mine from a racing supply store.
Hardened U-bolt style yoke. Buy a new nut and washer too. Torque to spec.
You might want to replace the oil seal at this time too.

 

[erasedhammer]

I'm with "Chaski" on replacing the yoke with one that uses "U-bolts" . That is what I did with mine. You can get the yoke online as long as you know the diameter and spline count of the pinion shaft. I bought mine from a racing supply store.
Hardened U-bolt style yoke. Buy a new nut and washer too. Torque to spec.
You might want to replace the oil seal at this time too.

Yeah it's leaking a bit.

On a slight side note is there any information on using a flange on the t-case output yoke? Currently there's not even a strap with bolts so the only option is to unbolt the rear driveshaft from the diff.
It'd be cool to have a flange on the t-case output, just like the front driveshaft, while still keeping the slip yoke.

 

[richingalveston]

the flange uses the double cardon joint. you can change the rear tail housing of the t-case to install the flange but then you have to put the slip into the drive shaft. so it cost a few $ but worth it if you have a high lift. You have to buy a new rear housing for the t-case, new flanged output yoke for t-case, new driveshaft with the double cardon joint and the drive shaft has to have a slip joint like the front drive shaft.
I have a 205 t-case with the double cardon joint and slip driveshaft. It was necessary since I have 5 inches of lift.

 

[erasedhammer]

I got the nut off with pipe wrench and breaker bar w/ pipe extension. Took nearly 1200 ft/lbs to break the nut loose. Washer came off with it.

My next problem is the pinion yoke is stuck on pretty good. Tried pulling it off from the front with a rachet straps, tried hammering from the rear, after soaking the splines in wd40. Won't budge.

Got any tricks for the yoke?

 

[TGP (IL)]

You need proper tools,
As far as Yoke removal you will need puller.
Tom

 

[erasedhammer]

You need proper tools,
As far as Yoke removal you will need puller.
Tom

Slowly acquiring more harbor freight tools.

 

[Valley Rock]

You shouldn't need a puller, just tap it with a hammer and pull it off, if you have to tap a little harder than normal that's ok since you say it's junk anyway .

60 and 70 use the same yoke, both 29 spline .

Go with the U-bolt style yoke as mentioned previous, don't attempt to convert a non U-bolt style yoke to U-bolt, as the bolt centers are different and you will discover that it is not feasible w/o a mill .

You didn't say what size joint, I run a 1410 when I can for strength and articulation, but it depends on what size the adjoining yoke is on your driveshaft .

Here is a link to what you need, my buddy owns this company and they are great people, he will have whatever size you need with the U-bolts .

https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/1350-Tall-U-Bolt-Style-29-Spline/3210/3309/3315

 

[erasedhammer]

You shouldn't need a puller, just tap it with a hammer and pull it off, if you have to tap a little harder than normal that's ok since you say it's junk anyway .

60 and 70 use the same yoke, both 29 spline .

Go with the U-bolt style yoke as mentioned previous, don't attempt to convert a non U-bolt style yoke to U-bolt, as the bolt centers are different and you will discover that it is not feasible w/o a mill .

You didn't say what size joint, I run a 1410 when I can for strength and articulation, but it depends on what size the adjoining yoke is on your driveshaft .

Here is a link to what you need, my buddy owns this company and they are great people, he will have whatever size you need with the U-bolts .

https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/1350-Tall-U-Bolt-Style-29-Spline/3210/3309/3315

Got a pulley puller and it came off fine.

I don't know what size u joint I have. I want to reuse the one currently install in the driveshaft, it just needs new hearing caps.

I can go into auto parts stores all day long, but unless I have a part number they won't help me.
Did the 70hd on these trucks have a 1310 u joint?

update: read somewhere that normal gm axles had the 1350, I assume they just used the same u joint and threw a 1350 yoke with their standard driveshaft

 

[rustystud]

Got a pulley puller and it came off fine.

I don't know what size u joint I have. I want to reuse the one currently install in the driveshaft, it just needs new hearing caps.

I can go into auto parts stores all day long, but unless I have a part number they won't help me.
Did the 70hd on these trucks have a 1310 u joint?

update: read somewhere that normal gm axles had the 1350, I assume they just used the same u joint and threw a 1350 yoke with their standard driveshaft

Go with the 1410 like Valley Rock mentioned. I did and it has never given me problems since.