M1030M1 Diesel Leak

[glcaines]

Went for a ~15 mile ride on my M1030M1 diesel motorcycle yesterday. It was a great ride until I discovered that diesel fuel was spraying all over the engine. I made it back home and attempted to find the leak. It appears that one of the rubber fuel lines has ruptured, which is a good thing because I can easily access the suspect line and replace it. However, there is so much diesel fuel all over everything that I need to clean it up to make certain which line I need to replace. The rubber line I think has failed looks to be in good condition, but looks can be deceiving. I initially shut the fuel petcock off, but had to turn it back on to try and see where the fuel was coming from. Made a mess on the garage floor. Other than the leak, the bike ran fantastic. I always get a lot of strange looks when I ride the bike because of the appearance and the sound of the diesel engine.

 

[glcaines]

I was right. I removed the leaking rubber fuel line. It had a crack right at one end where I couldn't see it until removed. I went to O'Reilly's to get a new piece of 1/4" fuel line and found that they were out of fuel line. Went across the road to Autozone and they had it. Took about 15 minutes to install and another few minutes to bleed the air out of the fuel system. The bike runs great again.

 

[robson1015]

How many miles on it ?? How long have you had it ??

 

[glcaines]

The odometer is reading 670, but who knows what the real mileage is. Mine also has ISAF stickers on the front and back meaning it was in Afghanistan for a period. I've never seen another M1030M1 with ISAF stickers. It also has a total of three RFID units on the bike, one on each side of the tank and one large one on the handlebars with a sticker stating that it was tested for weapons interference on 28JUL2010. Again, I've never seen another one with RFID units on the bike.

 

[robson1015]

I love it !

 

[m35a2AL]

I was right. I removed the leaking rubber fuel line. It had a crack right at one end where I couldn't see it until removed. I went to O'Reilly's to get a new piece of 1/4" fuel line and found that they were out of fuel line. Went across the road to Autozone and they had it. Took about 15 minutes to install and another few minutes to bleed the air out of the fuel system. The bike runs great again.

Hey, what is the process you used to bleed the line? I forgot to turn the fuel on and ran it long enough to get air in the lines.
Thanks!

nevermind! You've already answered me. thanks!

 

[m35a2AL]

Thanks to you, she's running perfectly. You're the best bro.

 

[87cr250r]

If you can post a picture of the line I can help find one that won't rupture again.

 

[m35a2AL]

Can one of you guys post a picture of your starter solenoid? I'm in my third one. In fact, the last one caught on fire after the second one melted. The ones I'm using appear to just be standard KLR650 relays. If not a picture, a part number or identifier or anything. Thanks so much!

 

[glcaines]

Can one of you guys post a picture of your starter solenoid? I'm in my third one. In fact, the last one caught on fire after the second one melted. The ones I'm using appear to just be standard KLR650 relays. If not a picture, a part number or identifier or anything. Thanks so much!

I'm not near my bike right now to take a photo, but I've been told that the starter, and I assume the solenoid, are 100% original standard KLR650. Are you getting real Kawasaki parts, or 3rd party replicas?

 

[m35a2AL]

Replicas for sure. I'll reach out to the dealer and see if can source a genuine part. I can concur that the starter and solenoid indeed look original.

 

[m35a2AL]

I have an OEM one on the way, I will update you when it arrives. I'll probably go ahead and upgrade the hot-side wire to a larger diameter too, since it was glowing red last time - though that could have been an issue with the solenoid.

 

[glcaines]

I have an OEM one on the way, I will update you when it arrives. I'll probably go ahead and upgrade the hot-side wire to a larger diameter too, since it was glowing red last time - though that could have been an issue with the solenoid.

Probably an issue with the solenoid. I've never had that happen with mine. How long do you need to turn the engine over with the starter before it starts? Mine only turns over 1 - 2 revolutions before it starts. If you have to turn it over a long time, that could also explain why the wire is getting hot, although glowing red hot is extreme.

 

[m35a2AL]

Well, when I first got it, it would crank really fast, now it takes longer. Not sure why.

 

[glcaines]

Well, when I first got it, it would crank really fast, now it takes longer. Not sure why.

How long are you warming up the glow plug? Also, is your battery fully charged. The battery needs to be in good shape and fully charged to spin the engine fast.

 

[m35a2AL]

Those are good questions. The way things played out with this bike, there were too many variables to be sure of anything. That said, I have installed a battery-charging QD, and I'm keeping it completely topped off now.

I'm allowing the glow plug light to stop blinking completely.

I'll be starting fresh next week, with a fully charged battery, fully warmed plug, and a fresh starter solenoid.

Fingers crossed.

 

[87cr250r]

A fully charged battery does not equal starting fresh. Batteries lose capacity over time while they can be charged fully they lose their ability to drive the amps required to start an engine.

If the battery can sit at 12.6 volts, it is fully charged. Put your volt meter directly on the battery terminals. Start the engine. The battery should maintain approximately 10.5 volts during a start. If it goes below 9.5 o 10 volts, the battery is likely bad.

 

[M1KLR]

The issue is the solenoid isn't built for that battery OEM or aftermarket. The OEM will last longer yes, but I have burned and melted both OEM and aftermarket ones. It also how many times it's cranked. Since it heats up quickly, needs a few minutes between to cool off a bit.

 

[glcaines]

The issue is the solenoid isn't built for that battery OEM or aftermarket. The OEM will last longer yes, but I have burned and melted both OEM and aftermarket ones. It also how many times it's cranked. Since it heats up quickly, needs a few minutes between to cool off a bit.

I've had my M1030M1 almost 5 years now, and ride it regularly. I have never had a solenoid fail since I received the bike. One thing that might be the difference is that my M1030M1 starts virtually instantly. It never turns over more than 1 - 2 revolutions before it starts when cold. When hot only 1 revolution 100% of the time. Perhaps some are not letting the glow plug warm up properly before trying to start the engine.

 

[M1KLR]

I've had my M1030M1 almost 5 years now, and ride it regularly. I have never had a solenoid fail since I received the bike. One thing that might be the difference is that my M1030M1 starts virtually instantly. It never turns over more than 1 - 2 revolutions before it starts when cold. When hot only 1 revolution 100% of the time. Perhaps some are not letting the glow plug warm up properly before trying to start the engine.

the cranking is the key, if it starts within 2-3 cranks perfectly, will never see the issue. It's when more than 6+ cranks and onward without letting it cool between. That is when things get hot haha.