M1031 with Mac self regulated drippproof synchroniousnous alternators

[tripplew]

Good morning everyone,

I have a 1986 M 1031 and love it just the way it is but the gen has not worked properly since I have owned the truck, the pto cable works and turns the gen, it does make electricity will power the onbourd air compressor and anything I plug into the side panel only if I manually manipulate the throttle, the problem is it doesn't controll the throttle when I turn on the switch on the dash looks to me the the throttle actuator is there and all the wiring looks intact.

I have checked and adjusted the 2 switches one at the coulum shifter and one at the transfer case and still no self high idle, is there a To for this bed ? Or for the operation of the acc. In it? And the controllers in the panel Or would i have to look for it in the gen To's? I have attached a few pictures,
I would like for it to work properly and would appreciate any help

 

[NDT]

Do a search for posts by “b4thundr”.

 

[Matt S]

I'm really not an expert by any means. I do/did have a M1031 and the RPMs would sometimes come up and other times they wouldn't. I think my problem was a corroded ground under the truck near the PTO on the frame. This may or may not help.

 

[Skinny]

Welcome to 37 year old control boards. No matter what you do you are at the mercy of these working correctly.

B4Thundr is not longer selling them. Last I talked to him I let him know that there is interest in the board but I havent heard that he is back selling them.

So you have a few options...

1) Try to find replacements for the existing boards which I do not recommend

2) Retrofit a new governor control board which I would only tackle if you are good at wiring. You can go cheapo Chinese all the way to a Woodward or Deep Sea.

3) Buy the exact same board that B4Thundr sold and duplicate what he did. You would be on the hook for the software settings, wire harness mods, and the programming cable.

4) Do number three and if you send me the cable I'll pull the configurations off of my controller and show you the harness diagram but only with permission from B4Thundr. I'm not into pirating someone else's side hustle but he no longer wants to make them amd gives you the blessing then I'd help out.

Does your truck have the rod that goes from the governor to the injection pump?

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

 

[NDT]

On mine the white controller related wiring was wrapped around the exhaust pipe and had melted the insulation and shorted the wiring.

 

[Skinny]

On mine the white controller related wiring was wrapped around the exhaust pipe and had melted the insulation and shorted the wiring.

Yeah it is endless...

Mine had no control rod, switches were all messed up. Once that was sorted the boards would do some wonky stuff. Sometimes smashing them with my fist would correct them which was funny as long as the power wasn't out. Once I swapped the control system out I took the boards apart. Some of the circuitry was exploded or corroded. No idea how they ever worked to begin with.

Just remember this stuff was out when desktop computers were a few grand and had green CRT displays

 

[tripplew]

Thanks for the info and the offer Skinny.
Yes the rod is there and the wiring was very close to the exhaust but looked ok, I strapped it back.

Hope to get back on it soon....... life

 

[Skinny]

Thanks for the info and the offer Skinny.
Yes the rod is there and the wiring was very close to the exhaust but looked ok, I strapped it back.

Hope to get back on it soon....... life

Yeah life gets in the way...like a brick wall.

Even if the wiring is compromised it's only the speed sensor and pto switch down there. Easy to fix.

 

[Keith_J]

The adjustment of the throttle actuator is quite sensitive. Just a few degrees of adjustment on the actuator side makes a world of difference so if you have a frequency droop of more than 5 Hz from no load to just a few kW, bump this up. The droop adjustment won't compensate enough. Remember, actuator position is based on controller current and you won't get more than 10 amps to the actuator.

This is why all interlock switches must be clean and positive in function. Along with power supply to the governor. Track voltage from battery to unit and voltage drop over every switch.

Finally, the variable resistors for I, Gain and Droop can get oxidized, causing adjustment errors. Note the existing position and "exercise" them. The frequency adjustment is a multiple turn potentiometer control and it too can benefit from wiper swipe.

The rest of the system is fairly robust, like the Hall effect speed sensor which reads the gear teeth on the PTO output cog.

It is the sum of the components which adds up to the kludge of system that drives us SECM owners up a wall. Weekly PMCS means we know how to make it work.

For testing, I have a three phase load bank made from 240/208 volt water heater elements. Boils 5 gallons of water, standing alone by itself, within a few minutes. I've used it for fire ant control and killing weeds.

I've heard negatives on power quality, I have not seen anything but smooth sinusoid wave forms on all three phases under resistive load. Could be odd waveforms from modern, poorly designed switched mode power supplies or other non-unity power factor consumers (inverter microwaves?) . Inductive loads like 3 phase motors are ideally suited to Lima MAC generators.

 

[Skinny]

Mine made a nice sine wave when I through a scope on it after rewiring for 240v sol

The adjustment of the throttle actuator is quite sensitive. Just a few degrees of adjustment on the actuator side makes a world of difference so if you have a frequency droop of more than 5 Hz from no load to just a few kW, bump this up. The droop adjustment won't compensate enough. Remember, actuator position is based on controller current and you won't get more than 10 amps to the actuator.

This is why all interlock switches must be clean and positive in function. Along with power supply to the governor. Track voltage from battery to unit and voltage drop over every switch.

Finally, the variable resistors for I, Gain and Droop can get oxidized, causing adjustment errors. Note the existing position and "exercise" them. The frequency adjustment is a multiple turn potentiometer control and it too can benefit from wiper swipe.

The rest of the system is fairly robust, like the Hall effect speed sensor which reads the gear teeth on the PTO output cog.

It is the sum of the components which adds up to the kludge of system that drives us SECM owners up a wall. Weekly PMCS means we know how to make it work.

For testing, I have a three phase load bank made from 240/208 volt water heater elements. Boils 5 gallons of water, standing alone by itself, within a few minutes. I've used it for fire ant control and killing weeds.

I've heard negatives on power quality, I have not seen anything but smooth sinusoid wave forms on all three phases under resistive load. Could be odd waveforms from modern, poorly designed switched mode power supplies or other non-unity power factor consumers (inverter microwaves?) . Inductive loads like 3 phase motors are ideally suited to Lima MAC generators.

Mine made a nice sine wave when it threw it on a scope after rewiring for 240v splitphase. Granted that was no load. It's brushless so voltage control isn't great but it's no different from anything else out there.

If something has trouble running off it I doubt it would play nice with an AVR controlled head either.

 

[rtk]

I am following this thread , mine does exactly the same thing , LOL I wish they would have kept using the Hobart units

 

[tripplew]

The adjustment of the throttle actuator is quite sensitive. Just a few degrees of adjustment on the actuator side makes a world of difference so if you have a frequency droop of more than 5 Hz from no load to just a few kW, bump this up. The droop adjustment won't compensate enough. Remember, actuator position is based on controller current and you won't get more than 10 amps to the actuator.

This is why all interlock switches must be clean and positive in function. Along with power supply to the governor. Track voltage from battery to unit and voltage drop over every switch.

Finally, the variable resistors for I, Gain and Droop can get oxidized, causing adjustment errors. Note the existing position and "exercise" them. The frequency adjustment is a multiple turn potentiometer control and it too can benefit from wiper swipe.

The rest of the system is fairly robust, like the Hall effect speed sensor which reads the gear teeth on the PTO output cog.

It is the sum of the components which adds up to the kludge of system that drives us SECM owners up a wall. Weekly PMCS means we know how to make it work.

For testing, I have a three phase load bank made from 240/208 volt water heater elements. Boils 5 gallons of water, standing alone by itself, within a few minutes. I've used it for fire ant control and killing weeds.

I've heard negatives on power quality, I have not seen anything but smooth sinusoid wave forms on all three phases under resistive load. Could be odd waveforms from modern, poorly designed switched mode power supplies or other non-unity power factor consumers (inverter microwaves?) . Inductive loads like 3 phase motors are ideally suited to Lima MAC generators.

Thanks for the run down, I feel confident that if all the component still work I can get it going.


"Finally, the variable resistors for I, Gain and Droop can get oxidized, causing adjustment errors. Note the existing position and "exercise" them. The frequency adjustment is a multiple turn potentiometer control and it too can benefit from wiper swipe.

This ^ reminds me of the -86's

These trucks are very cool imo, I am so lucky to have been able to get one, I had lost a few regular trucks by a few bids and really didn't want the 1031 but decided to bid on this one and got lucky and had the winning bid and I was amazed when I picked it up, hell its a rolling shop or it could be, very cool truck ! I just want to get it back to its original glory.

 

[Skinny]

Thanks for the run down, I feel confident that if all the component still work I can get it going.


"Finally, the variable resistors for I, Gain and Droop can get oxidized, causing adjustment errors. Note the existing position and "exercise" them. The frequency adjustment is a multiple turn potentiometer control and it too can benefit from wiper swipe.

This ^ reminds me of the -86's

These trucks are very cool imo, I am so lucky to have been able to get one, I had lost a few regular trucks by a few bids and really didn't want the 1031 but decided to bid on this one and got lucky and had the winning bid and I was amazed when I picked it up, hell its a rolling shop or it could be, very cool truck ! I just want to get it back to its original glory.

I thought the same thing and way back wanted to gut it for a regular bed. So glad that didn't happen. I love my M1031 more and more every year.

The truck variants are cool but the service box and ambulance are very unique. I'm sure they are more rare as well. They aren't being made anymore so I respect people keeping them as is instead of parting them out. Mine almost became a rockcrawling driveline until the guy decided to sell it to me instead.