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M1038 Mile Marker winch troubleshooting

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For anyone trying to disassemble the ITT cannon plug here's a side-view: https://secure.ittcannon.com/mc/PdfDrawingGenerator/CA3106E14S-1PBF80.pdf
Thanks. Been looking for that diagram. However, I still don't see how to take the black winch controller's plug apart to switch the wires. I've gotten this far, but don't see how to disassemble any further. Stopped since it didn't come apart easily and I didn't want to break anything. Any ideas? From the diagram, do 9 & 12 just slide apart?
IMG_20161031_153455438.jpgIMG_20161031_153524138.jpg
 

NormB

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Thanks. Been looking for that diagram. However, I still don't see how to take the black winch controller's plug apart to switch the wires. I've gotten this far, but don't see how to disassemble any further. Stopped since it didn't come apart easily and I didn't want to break anything. Any ideas? From the diagram, do 9 & 12 just slide apart?
View attachment 655125View attachment 655126

It's why I dug up the diagram.

Hold part #12 and part # 7 with small pliers and they unthread (there aren't any threads shown on the drawing where the parts meet, but they're there).

Another tip, push the PINS towards the back (the wire end) one at a time. Find something like a split pin starter tool or use fine-point needle nose pliers to hold and push them back out. The center rubber part CAN come out but it tears (don't ask me how I know). Then you switch black and white pins and reassemble. There's a white sleave you put on LAST before threading the base #7 back on, part #3, I think - you'll know it when you see it, it goes INSIDE the base of part #7, THEN part #12 threads on.

I put the plug into the jack on the dash to hold in place while I reassembled everything. Oh, and don't forget to put the locking ring back on before assembly (no, I didn't).

NB
 

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It's why I dug up the diagram.

Hold part #12 and part # 7 with small pliers and they unthread (there aren't any threads shown on the drawing where the parts meet, but they're there).

Another tip, push the PINS towards the back (the wire end) one at a time. Find something like a split pin starter tool or use fine-point needle nose pliers to hold and push them back out. The center rubber part CAN come out but it tears (don't ask me how I know). Then you switch black and white pins and reassemble. There's a white sleave you put on LAST before threading the base #7 back on, part #3, I think - you'll know it when you see it, it goes INSIDE the base of part #7, THEN part #12 threads on.

I put the plug into the jack on the dash to hold in place while I reassembled everything. Oh, and don't forget to put the locking ring back on before assembly (no, I didn't).

NB
That is what I needed. Thanks. Just finished swapping the black and white pins. Will test it this evening. :)
 

1 Patriot-of-many

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Hi Im new to the site and humvee ownership. I have a M1038 with winch. This may be a stupid question but do you need the plug in controls to use the winch?
Did you look in the box attached to the bumper? I also scored a M1038 listed as a M998 a couple years ago, the controller was intact and the winch and controller work.
 

sadpopeye03

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I have a similar problem with a M1114 HMMWV it came with a military installed Mile Maker hydraulic winch, and the military yellow controller was in the bed, but when I plugged it nothing happened. After some trouble shooting I found that I wasn't getting any power at the common terminal and after tracing it back i have power past the circuit breaker but have no continuity in the last few feet of the harness to the plug. I am assuming there is a bad connection in the back of the receptacle. Unfortunately, to get to it is very difficult and I was hoping I would be able to bypass it but am having trouble identifying the connectors. The best I can tell from my scratched up one and my research which may be off is. The controller plug is a Cannon ITT MIL-C-5015 standard with a part number CA3106E14S-1P-B-F80. I have no idea what the receiver of that plug in the dash is and am not positive that number is correct. If someone could help with both part numbers and possibly a cheap place to buy them. I would much appreciate it, the best I am currently see is the low $50.00
 

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