M105A2 landing gear problem

[crash7795]

Looked through 10 pages of M105A2 posts and searched for "landing gear" issues without finding this problem, so here goes...

Lnading gear was down when I picked the trailer up. After the GL employee picked the tongue up with the forklift, we folded the landing gear up with no issue. When I got the trailer home, I went to unfold the landing gear....and it appears to be stuck in its stowed position.

Has anyone ever run into this before? It's very possible I am not doing the right things to release it, so I'd accept any advice no matter how ridiculous. I already started dousing it all in WD-40...I was already there soaking the lunette ring nut in it, so I figured why not. Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Jared

 

[clinto]

So you mean the handle that you grab and pull on is stuck?

When you pull out on the handle, there are 2 pins that retract from their receivers-there are receivers at the top and bottom for the gear.

Sometimes they're "sticky" and the handle/pins don't want to retract.

 

[Wildchild467]

Try lifting up on the landing gear to take the weight off the latch assembly and then try unlocking the latch. Make sure you watch your shins.

Does your have the direct pull up latch or the "cam style" latch? Do you have any pictures of the landing gear?

 

[Flyingvan911]

I keep my landing gear latch well lubed to make it easier to raise and lower. I wish the crank had a low gear like semi trailers do.

 

[crash7795]

So you mean the handle that you grab and pull on is stuck?

When you pull out on the handle, there are 2 pins that retract from their receivers-there are receivers at the top and bottom for the gear.

Sometimes they're "sticky" and the handle/pins don't want to retract.

They appear to be stuck, yes, but I'm also only getting a fraction of an inch of travel on the unlocking handle. So I'm oiling the bejeezus out of everything and hoping something breaks free.

 

[crash7795]

Try lifting up on the landing gear to take the weight off the latch assembly and then try unlocking the latch. Make sure you watch your shins.

Does your have the direct pull up latch or the "cam style" latch? Do you have any pictures of the landing gear?

I have the cam style latch. I'll take some pictures when I get home later. I'll try the countertorque method you suggested....if it's that easy, I'm going to have to send my toddler inside for a bit while I throw a small tantrum. I should have already tried that.

 

[Wildchild467]

The "cam latch" isnt bad, but you have to rotate your hand a little in the direction it goes a little bit to make it work better. I agree with flyingvan911, PM is a good thing.
Keep us updated. I bet its a combination with no lubrication and not lifting up on the landing gear to take the weight off it.

 

[Scar59]

Get on your butt and under the trailer, see how the mechimism works and releases. You may need to support the weight of the gear rod, additionally make sure that the foot pad is not wedged up to the lower cross member. If the leg is extended just right it can wedge up to the frame rail when retracted.

 

[Wildchild467]

Get on your butt and under the trailer, see how the mechimism works and releases. You may need to support the weight of the gear rod, additionally make sure that the foot pad is not wedged up to the lower cross member. If the leg is extended just right it can wedge up to the frame rail when retracted.

He is referring to the landing gear on the front of the trailer. I think you are thinking of the stabilizer that is on the rear of the trailer.

 

[Scar59]

Get on your butt and under the trailer, see how the mechimism works and releases. You may need to support the weight of the gear rod, additionally make sure that the foot pad is not wedged up to the lower cross member. If the leg is extended just right it can wedge up to the frame rail when retracted.

My bad, I took it that the rear support rod is stuck up. Front gear is stuck up, try supporting most of it's weight while working the release. Lube the lock pins well. Do not sit under the front of the trailer.

 

[crash7795]

Well, just lifting up on the gear didn't work. I pushed the cam down and rattled the **** out of it; nothing budged. So I added some WD-40, then pushed down on the cam, and while keeping the compression on the cam handle, rapped the handle pretty good with a heavy rubber mallet. Then I went back and tried to relieve the weight of the landing gear again. Did that three times, on the third iteration the gear popped free and dropped down. Sweet. Thanks for the brainstorming. Great group of folks here.

 

[SteveKuhn]

I've had a half-dozen of these gear/legs and and lunettes. I find my favorite tools are a crowbar and and hammer. Followed by some grease.

Steve

 

[F18hornetM]

Pry bar works every time until well lubed.

 

[crash7795]

Yeah, when I get around to the lunette ring, I have a 5' wrecking bar I intend to use for a cheater, along with a BFH and a wrench. I expect a problem with that. That landing gear issue had me a little cranky.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Just don't beat on the threads when you do the lunette.

 

[crash7795]

Just don't beat on the threads when you do the lunette.

Check. Actually, I've been working on the threads....they're all painted over, so I've been scraping the paint away with dental tools, what paint I can reach. Gives me something to do while I wait for the WD40 to soak in.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Oven cleaner will work to remove that paint. Spray it, let it sit until the paint is bubbling off, then hose it off. Works just like aircraft paint stripper.

 

[SteveKuhn]

I'd switch to PBBlaster (I prefer the liquid in an oil cal to the aerosol) for better rust cutting. Just back the lunette nut off 1/4" or so to get the ring loose. That's all you need. It's also a point to add PB so it runs inside the sleeve.

If it's real stuck, PB + heat from the underside along the tang + a BFH at 9 & 3 o'clock alternating has been good for me. Rotating is good w/ occasional bangs at 6 to drive it back. Stay away from the thread. The shock works better for me than pressure. I've bent a few 5 - 6' crowbars. There are a couple of other threads with approaches including sweating candle wax.

Go for it. With that advice and properly equipped, it'll probably just slide forward as soon as you break the nut.

Steve

 

[crash7795]

I'd switch to PBBlaster (I prefer the liquid in an oil cal to the aerosol) for better rust cutting. Just back the lunette nut off 1/4" or so to get the ring loose. That's all you need. It's also a point to add PB so it runs inside the sleeve.

Thanks for the gouge on the PBBlaster. I'm going to try to track some down.

As far as backing the lunette nut off, someone painted (at least two coats!) over the nut, cotter cin, and every millimeter of thread. Got the cotter pin out with a flat bar and a hammer, alternating sides every two strikes on the cotter head to drive it out of the channel. Now I'm putting the ol' weaselp!ss to the nut, and taking as much paint off the threads as I can reach. I still have to go get the 1 1/2"" wrench; all I have right now is a short pipe wrench.

I really hope I don't have to heat this thing. We'll see how it goes.

 

[RodUSMC1962]

Crow bar, hammer, blaster and heat fixes lots of stuff. If these don`t work add a bigger hammer.