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M105A2 Replacement Axle & landing gear

ithaca1230

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Ithaca NY
ok all is finished except paint. I will try and get some pictures but I basically cut the landing gear housing off at the frame. Welded a piece of 3/8" plate to beef up the frame and another flat triangular 1/4 to take the new jack stand. had to cut a 2 1/2" hole for that in that plate. If I find the right tool box that will fit in between the jackstand an the box I might add that. I also made a ramp for the tailgate gonna move the 4-wheeler around with it.
 

John Galt

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Fort Worth, TX
I see you ordered a 68" hub face axle. How much room does that leave you on the inside of the fender and to the outside of the fender?

I was thinking of ordering a 72" hub face because I want to use a 9-10" wide truck tire and wheels with 2" off center (towards the outside) mounting surface.

Only hesitation I am having is because if I ever decide to put zero offset (centered) trailer wheels and tires on it, they may stick out past the fenders.
 

ithaca1230

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I put alot of thought into the axle length. Due to the distance from spring to hub the axle manufactures dont like the spring being so far from the hub. This is why I purchased the stock length axle. It puts the center of the wheel where the center of the original wheel was. The wheels on the axle now are in the middle of the wheel well. I will measure and post the # next time I get a chance. There is deffinately room to move them out a inch or two.
 

John Galt

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Got it. Thank you. Spring center is 40" so ideally the hub face would be not greater than 60".

http://www.trailerpart.com/7kdroptraileraxle.htm

The tire rating on the truck tires I wanted to use is only 2680 lbs/tire, I may just end up using good trailer tires instead to get a 3500 lb capacity per tire.

I did get the lunnete flipped today. Was not easy but not too difficult. Definitely not something I would try during a recovery.
 

John Galt

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I meant to say that hub face would have to be only 60" to stay withing the axle manufactures recommendation, which would be too short to clear the fender wells. I think I will go with a 68" hub face. Which is still 8" more overhang than recommended.
 

ithaca1230

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the axle company I ordered from offered a heavy duty tube. I beefed it up a little by welding that piece of 4" pipe about 3/8 thick to the bottom for whatever it is worth. Was also able to use the stock U-bolts after cutting a bit more thread on them.
 

Tornadogt

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Adkins, Texas
the axle company I ordered from offered a heavy duty tube. I beefed it up a little by welding that piece of 4" pipe about 3/8 thick to the bottom for whatever it is worth. Was also able to use the stock U-bolts after cutting a bit more thread on them.
I did something very similar, I cut a section from the original axle about 14 inches long then split it length way into two pieces to make saddles under the axle at each of the springs perches. I was also was able to reuse the stock U bolts by adding 4 flat washers and not needing to add any threads.. Another option to lower the trailer a bit more you can take the bolt out of the spring set and remove 2 or 3 springs leafs out from below (remove every other spring starting from the bottom) and restacking them above the main leaf(just as spacers) in order to keep the U-bolt length correct.. That is worth 2-3 inches and it is not as stiff of a ride with light or average loads, the over load springs will still work as they should.
 

John Galt

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Good ideas. Thank you.

Do you recall the wall thickness of the mil axle? Do you have pic of the new leaf spring set up?

New axle will have to be 3 or 3.5" diameter and the mil axle is 4.5"
 
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cityboy172

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NW Indiana
Just bumping this up. Getting ready to do this to the m105 I just picked up. Thinking about an 8,000lbs 4" drop axle running 17.5" centered rims with electric brakes.. Keep getting hung up on width. Thinking about running 72" hub to hub. Want to be as wide as possible and still be less then bed / wheel well width.

Depending on tire width, I'm thinking my max width will be 9.5". So, trailer width is 83, minus 9.5 (4.75" per side) gives me 73.5" max hub to hub to be under the trailer still? Took another 1.5" off for good measure.

Edit - Huh.... Would of swore I'd posted here before. Long time lurker, first time poster. Thanks in advance.
 
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cityboy172

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NW Indiana
I will check my notes and post my measurements tomorrow. Planned to do this but Havent gotten around to it yet.
I appreciate it. I swung by Dexter on the way home tonight, and I could see the guy cringe when I gave him the spring measurement VS the hub to hub. They actually refereed me to another local company for better pricing. They were very helpful. I also have an email into AxleInc (AL-KO axles). I'll see who comes out ahead on pricing.
 

John Galt

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Fort Worth, TX
I made a few posts earlier in this thread. Going off the inside of the fender, I decided on 68" hub face for zero offset wheels and 72" hub face with 2" offset wheels (towards outside). Those numbers count for 2" space between the inside of a 10" wide tire and the of fender.

If going from the outside of fender, I cam up with 76" hub face with 10" tires and 2" offset wheels. 72" with zero offset wheels.

The limiting factor is the recommended difference between springs and hub face.

I have a few 3/4 ton trailers and would probably go with 72-73" hub face so the axle could be used with either.
 

ithaca1230

New member
28
1
3
Location
Ithaca NY
Just bumping this up. Getting ready to do this to the m105 I just picked up. Thinking about an 8,000lbs 4" drop axle running 17.5" centered rims with electric brakes.. Keep getting hung up on width. Thinking about running 72" hub to hub. Want to be as wide as possible and still be less then bed / wheel well width.

Depending on tire width, I'm thinking my max width will be 9.5". So, trailer width is 83, minus 9.5 (4.75" per side) gives me 73.5" max hub to hub to be under the trailer still? Took another 1.5" off for good measure.

Edit - Huh.... Would of swore I'd posted here before. Long time lurker, first time poster. Thanks in advance.
After installing the 68" axle if I were to do it again I would order a 72" Hub to Hub. There is enough room. Hope this helps.
 
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