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M1078 Battery Conversion

Mullaney

Mullaney

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Lugnuts said:
I know that there have been questions and comments on the removal of the square 4's and replacing with commercial batteries. I have done several for Fire Service and Municipalities so I thought I would film one and put it on You Tube for all to see. Comments and criticism welcome/ https://youtu.be/utEPJToFO7s
Click to expand...
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Watching now...
You have one like on that video now :cool:
 
R

Ronmar

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Yep, a pair of 31’s is a much better matchup to the engine and electrical system… The alternator also says thanks:)

Another thing these trucks need, especially if they set more than they drive, is either a balancer and float charger combination, or a disconnect switch to deal with the 12v vampire load…
 
J

JD4044M

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Now that I have a battery disconnect for the 12 volt cable only my battery stay up when sitting for days on end. Still need to install my new alternator.
I also went to 2 battery's and left the other 2 charged and in the box ready to use if I need a jump. Easy hookup of just one cable to them when needed.
 
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L

Lugnuts

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I didn't put it in the video but I do install a Noco charger/ 10 amp/ Amazon for $127.00/ Mounts to the back wall of the Battery Box/ Run the 110 volt power chord to the NATO connection holes left from taking the cable out/ Works great/ Batteries last a long time and don't cook/
 
BERZERKER888

BERZERKER888

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JD4044M said:
Now that I have a battery disconnect for the 12 volt cable only my battery stay up when sitting for days on end. Still need to install my new alternator.
I also went to 2 battery's and left the other 2 charged and in the box ready to use if I need a jump. Easy hookup of just one cable to them when needed.
Click to expand...
how did you install the kill switch...which battery leads?.. thanks
 
J

JD4044M

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I just took the 12 Volt Lead and unbolted it from the Battery and hooked it to the switch. Then took the other connection on the switch and connected it back to the Battery Post. There are 2 cables off the Batteries one for the 24 volts and one for the 12 volts going back to the Cab. So only the 12 Volt Power is Disconnected and it can't be started or lights left on including my Radio and that Vampire Load!
 
J

JD4044M

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I just put the switch handle out the side the Air Dryer is on. Plenty of room for it and the cable is long enough do it. I just made another cable a couple feet long to go back to the battery. I will take a picture of it. The Wet Spots on the Batteries are Dielectric Grease spots. Only the back 2 run the truck and the right one is the 12 volt load. The front 2 are for jumping or the winch. The Rubber Cover is on the Cable I hook up to tie them in if needed to start the truck. The Switch I bought was good for 500 amp surge and 350 amps continuous. Did not know the handle could not come off so I cut one side off to tuck it thru the bigger hole! The Little Red Plug in is for my Winch 12 VDC Power Tap.DSCF6830.JPGDSCF6832.JPGDSCF6831.JPG
 
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Ronmar

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JD4044M said:
I just took the 12 Volt Lead and unbolted it from the Battery and hooked it to the switch. Then took the other connection on the switch and connected it back to the Battery Post. There are 2 cables off the Batteries one for the 24 volts and one for the 12 volts going back to the Cab. So only the 12 Volt Power is Disconnected and it can't be started or lights left on including my Radio and that Vampire Load!
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That will kill the vampire. The main switch turns on the 24V control/ign power relay using 12V, so cutting off only the 12 at the battery completely disables the vehicle and all the lighting as those are always hot…
 
R

ramdough

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Lugnuts said:
I know that there have been questions and comments on the removal of the square 4's and replacing with commercial batteries. I have done several for Fire Service and Municipalities so I thought I would film one and put it on You Tube for all to see. Comments and criticism welcome/ https://youtu.be/utEPJToFO7s
Click to expand...
What “commercial” batteries did you use?

Thanks for the video post…..I subscribed to your channel….. now make more videos please!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
C

cheesehead dave

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crivitz, wi
Lugnuts said:
I know that there have been questions and comments on the removal of the square 4's and replacing with commercial batteries. I have done several for Fire Service and Municipalities so I thought I would film one and put it on You Tube for all to see. Comments and criticism welcome/ https://youtu.be/utEPJToFO7s
Click to expand...
We accomplished your battery conversion today on our Brush Truck following your video to the T and it worked as advertised. Thank you. Cheesehead Dave. Crooked Lake Volunteer Fire Department.
 
D

dsl

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arapahoe nc
Southeast Pamlico Volunteer Fire Dept in NC has a M1083 with the 4 6TL batteries which we would like to convert to two batteries. You mentioned using group31 commercial batteries, but what cranking amps are needed for reliable operation?
 
R

Ronmar

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Anything over a group 27 will provide plenty unless it is VERY cold. Cat specced a pair of group 31s for the equipment using these engines. A 31 typically delivers ~1000 CCA... All the kodiaks out there with 3116/3126 engines use similar battery size.

I measured my 3116 start current once before I removed my shunt, it had a very brief 290A initial peak and settled to ~157A while cranking... that was at ~50F temp...
 
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