M1078 LMTV planetary hub setup

[mauinate]

Anyone have any experience Lincoln locking the hubs to remove the 2:1 reduction? Or machining a new hub to do the same?

 

[m-35tom]

truck will not be drivable, no power.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

I believe the gearing was done to keep the pumpkin smaller.

 

[Awesomeness]

I believe the gearing was done to keep the pumpkin smaller.

This, and it reduces the forces in the axles (e.g. reducing the diameter of axle shafts needed, etc.).

 

[steve6x6x6]

Anyone have any experience Lincoln locking the hubs to remove the 2:1 reduction? Or machining a new hub to do the same?

I have built axles with welded planets but were for a truck that weighted 1/2 what a M1078 does and much smaller tires. I do not have pic's of the welded planets for the rears. Pic's are for basic info., do not ask me to build these axles, because a lost my rear end making them.

 

[Another Ahab]

I have built axles with welded planets but were for a truck that weighted 1/2 what a M1078 does and much smaller tires. I do not have pic's of the welded planets for the rears. Pic's are for basic info., do not ask me to build these axles, because a lost my rear end making them.

Those are beautiful to behold. Wow!

 

[mauinate]

Thanks for the opions, I understand why it was designed that way. I've heard of a few 1078's with this done, but was really looking for someone with experience to chime in like steve6x6x6 has.

m-35tom have you driven one with the hub reduction removed, or is this just your opinion?

Thank you guys

 

[mauinate]

I have built axles with welded planets but were for a truck that weighted 1/2 what a M1078 does and much smaller tires. I do not have pic's of the welded planets for the rears. Pic's are for basic info., do not ask me to build these axles, because a lost my rear end making them.

Steve6x6x6, happen to have a photo of what is inside the black cap on the alxes? Trying to wrap my head around what you did there. Those are super helpful, thank you!

 

[Awesomeness]

Steve6x6x6, happen to have a photo of what is inside the black cap on the alxes? Trying to wrap my head around what you did there. Those are super helpful, thank you!

There should be nothing inside it. It's just a block that connects the splines of the shaft, to the hub flange. That's what you're asking about doing, right?

 

[mauinate]

There should be nothing inside it. It's just a block that connects the splines of the shaft, to the hub flange. That's what you're asking about doing, right?

Thanks, its basically what I'm considering. Not ever having had one apart, I'm failing to wrap my head around the connection from the axle splines to the outer ring that he fabbed in photo #1. It looks like there should be something there, even if it is just a mating set of splines on the inside so that the torque is delivered through the cap(?) to the bolts to the new ring...

 

[Awesomeness]

Not ever having had one apart, I'm failing to wrap my head around the ...

Why don't you go look at the manuals' diagrams, or watch a YouTube video about these axles? This really isn't a great idea, under all but the most unusual of circumstances.

 

[mauinate]

Why don't you go look at the manuals' diagrams, or watch a YouTube video about these axles? This really isn't a great idea, under all but the most unusual of circumstances.

Thanks, been looking around at some others and realized steve6x6x6 had mentioned those weren't axles from an lmtv.... Makes a little more sense now. I think..

 

[Awesomeness]

Thanks, been looking around at some others and realized steve6x6x6 had mentioned those weren't axles from an lmtv.... Makes a little more sense now. I think..

They look like LMTV axles, or very close relatives. I think what he was saying was they came off an LMTV, hub gearing was removed, and were destined for a truck that weighed 1/2 as much as an LMTV. If you weld the planets, you put all the torque directly on the axle shafts, and they were only meant to handle 1/2 that (2:1 ratio). So unless you're using them with smaller tires, on a smaller truck, etc. you're just going to break things and have other problems. Yes, they have some safety margin on the design.

What's your goal?

 

[steve6x6x6]

They look like LMTV axles, or very close relatives. I think what he was saying was they came off an LMTV, hub gearing was removed, and were destined for a truck that weighed 1/2 as much as an LMTV. If you weld the planets, you put all the torque directly on the axle shafts, and they were only meant to handle 1/2 that (2:1 ratio). So unless you're using them with smaller tires, on a smaller truck, etc. you're just going to break things and have other problems. Yes, they have some safety margin on the design.

What's your goal?

I fab the 5 1/2" round tube housings and make the tube fork ends. I make the axles shafts from alloy 4340. 225,000 tensile strength per square inch.. The customer wanted 3.90 gear ratio final drive, all axles are driven with lockers in both rears.

 

[steve6x6x6]

Steve6x6x6, happen to have a photo of what is inside the black cap on the alxes? Trying to wrap my head around what you did there. Those are super helpful, thank you!

 

[steve6x6x6]

There is one more gear that goes on top of all of that, it fits on the spline and drives all 4 planet gears

 

[mauinate]

Thanks guys, super helpful!

 

[Keith Knight]

I know I'm waking up an old post and I"m hoping someone has figured this out.
I just read this entire Forum and I'm still not certain which method of setting the gear lash is better.
Also no one ever mentioned how to precisely measure the lash using Steve's method??????? Which I would agree that it would be the better way if you are working with hubs that have miles on them. The TM method would be great when dealing with brand new shinny parts.
But If I'm going to do it Steve's method I would love for some that has actually done it and used a precision way of measuring the .010-.020 back lash to please explain in detail.
Has anyone set them up the TM's way then checked it with Steve's way to see what the results were?
Just thought of something else, if using Steve's method what is your starting point with the shims just put the old shims back in and star guessing if its to loose at how much to add?

 

[m-35tom]

Does not matter how you do it results will be the same. It is very easy to do.

 

[Keith Knight]

There has to be a different result. New gears with precise new parts vs old gears and parts with wear and break in. If it doesn’t matter then if everything is currently running good and no issues at all, why would anyone bother even though they say it should be done annually, unless there is wear to count for. There for just setting them up the same as before would only be putting it back the same as factory. Unless only the wheel bearings wear and need adjustment and the spider gears don’t wear but we all know things wear and out of tolerance.