M1078 rear tail light conversion.

[Blairg]

Was wondering if anybody had converted to civilian tail lights on their truck? I realize the brake light and turnsignal are on the same circuit and am hoping to have separate the turn signals from the stop lights.

Blair

 

[ckouba]

I want to do the same- with larger LED tail lights and amber for the turn signals. I found a tail light decoder/de-coupler. I tried it temporarily and it worked as advertised. Will install permanently in a bit:

Amazon.com: RED WOLF Trailer 2-to-3-Wire Splice-in Trailer Tail Light Converter Wire Harness Connector Separate Turn Signal Brake Light Set up For Trailer RV Dinghy Towing Pickup Car Trucks Vans : Automotive

Buy RED WOLF Trailer 2-to-3-Wire Splice-in Trailer Tail Light Converter Wire Harness Connector Separate Turn Signal Brake Light Set up For Trailer RV Dinghy Towing Pickup Car Trucks Vans: Wiring - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Blairg]

Interesting, I bought a Curtiss version of that and couldn't get it to work. Did you need any diodes?


Blair

 

[ckouba]

BTW, I just used the 7 pin connection to test them out, and will probably just use that when I wire up the camper body with the running lights, etc...

 

[ckouba]

Nope. No diodes, no nothing, just wired up as advertised and it actually worked. I was skeptical but it worked on my quick trial. I expect (and truly hope) that it will when I do the final install...

 

[Blairg]

I actually am using the wires for the orginal tail lights but that shouldn't matter. Well, maybe I need to go explore it again to see if I was doing something wrong. Instructions are pretty simple so I am not sure what i did wrong.

Blair

 

[ckouba]

It's been a while since I did it and I do remember it taking a try or two, but I think that was more because I misread the pin out for the 7-pin outlet or something. Once I had the wires in the correct place, it worked like a champ.

I'm sometimes skeptical with small, cheap, aftermarket electronic items, but mine worked as it should. I'd say give it another shot, mine actually worked right out of the box.

 

[Third From Texas]

I've replaced the tail lights on both my m1082 trailers with civilian trailer lights (the trailer has the same wiring circuits as the truck in those regards). Works fine.

Of course you don't retain the blackout capabilities (but I am retaking the blackout wiring for additional lights/switched 12v sources fore and are).

It was a tough choice: pay $500 to someone scalping 10 y/o used OEM...or get brand new for $30. Real tough call. /sarcasm

side note: I wish someone with CAD skillz would design and 3D print an adaptor light bucket cover that would incorporate standard civilian 4" round LED (again, just delete the blackout). Buckets are all over, it's only the OEM Trucklight, etc LED lights (which fail often as noted by the tens of thousands that are burned out on these trucks) that the flippers are making bank. And there are limitless supplies of civilian replacements.

 

[Blairg]

Ok... having read a lot of the threads on lights and wiring i remembered somebody had suggested using a different ground then what the original lights used. I went directly to the frame and it seems that I now have blinkers and stop lights. It does mention that for running lights they needs to be run separately from the convertor. However, when I run a wire to the lights for running lights it seems to just activate at the lights at full brightness and deactivates the stop light portion. I suspect that might be a light issue though. weird

Blair

 

[Ronmar]

Actually if you are converting to civillian/separate brake and turnsignals, you don’t really need a converter. 2 fairly minor changes in the panel, and you can use the blackout brake light wiring to drive separate brake light elements...

K10 is the relay that shifts the dual function lights from turnsignal/hazard flasher to brake. You would remove it and put a jumper into it’s normal TS/flasher function(Pin 30 to 87A). This would disable the brake light override function of the brake/TS lights and they will only operate as flashers.

You would then get into the main light switch harness and install a jumper from pin K to N, which will send power to the blackout wires when the brake relay K6 is energized by the pedal. while you are in there, you should also install a jumper from K to C , which will insure the brake lights work even if you forget to switch the lights to service drive...

 

[ckouba]

Actually if you are converting to civillian/separate brake and turnsignals, you don’t really need a converter. 2 fairly minor changes in the panel, and you can use the blackout brake light wiring to drive separate brake light elements...

K10 is the relay that shifts the dual function lights from turnsignal/hazard flasher to brake. You would remove it and put a jumper into it’s normal TS/flasher function(Pin 30 to 87A). This would disable the brake light override function of the brake/TS lights and they will only operate as flashers.

You would then get into the main light switch harness and install a jumper from pin K to N, which will send power to the blackout wires when the brake relay K6 is energized by the pedal. while you are in there, you should also install a jumper from K to C , which will insure the brake lights work even if you forget to switch the lights to service drive...

Thank you Ronmar! Bookmarking this post for future reference. The converter I got worked but I am hesitant to trust it for brake lights... If I hard wire something in which I know doesn't depend on diodes or other electronics, I'd feel a lot better about it.

 

[Blairg]

Actually if you are converting to civillian/separate brake and turnsignals, you don’t really need a converter. 2 fairly minor changes in the panel, and you can use the blackout brake light wiring to drive separate brake light elements...

K10 is the relay that shifts the dual function lights from turnsignal/hazard flasher to brake. You would remove it and put a jumper into it’s normal TS/flasher function(Pin 30 to 87A). This would disable the brake light override function of the brake/TS lights and they will only operate as flashers.

You would then get into the main light switch harness and install a jumper from pin K to N, which will send power to the blackout wires when the brake relay K6 is energized by the pedal. while you are in there, you should also install a jumper from K to C , which will insure the brake lights work even if you forget to switch the lights to service drive...

Well that is certainly cleaner. I guess that should motivate me to swith over to a conventional headlamp switch as well.
Thanks you.

Blair

 

[olly hondro]

Hillbilly hack : I got a set of magnetic tow lights from HF. With a coupon nearly free. Plugged into the round trailer connector= done. This works for the trail, as I can unplug + unstick the entire assembly and store out of the way.