M1079 conversion help

[Bryteayes]

CARA is a 1998 M1079 we are converting to a camper. My wife wants to keep her looking as original as possible so we will not be lengthening her. I would like so see how other people configured theirs. Specifically I would like to know how much fresh/gray/black water they have. Where are your tanks located? What toilet did you decide on? How are your beds arranged? Do you have pictures of your interior you could share?

 

[Third From Texas]

Everyone has tastes and goals. A good starting place is to make that list (especially if there is a woman involved).

Most people want to make use of as much storage space as possible, but I wanted to keep the inside feeling as "open" as possible. I'm not claustrophobic, but I appreciate the open feel over the cramped. It's just me and the dog, so I can get away with a smaller bead and less storage space. I ditched the overhead cabinets along the walls because they just made it feel cramped (and there's just not enough working room above the OEM windows). I stow a small office chair for the desk (opposed to built-in seating). And I have two plastic military footlockers that will be on slides under the bed that provide a ton of storage space. Again, mine is more designed for a single person and and a GSD.


I mocked up the bed, head, shower pan, desk, and kitchen space with modular sections out of 2x2 and camped with various combinations until I found what worked best for me. The bonus was getting to actually camp in the truck to make certain it would hold all the comforts that I wanted. I finally settled on this (rough drawing, not to scale).



Here's the mockup







I'm also paneling the walls to include a 1.5" layer of Sika board insulation. The AAR shelters that the military used on these trucks is one big giant thermal bridge (metal-to-metal-to-metal). The interior walls can get as hot as the exterior skin in direct sun (as well as transferring cold). A layer of non-conducting material (insulation, wood, etc) will break that bridge).



For water I'll have 100gal fresh (two tanks under bed), 10gal gray (external), no black.

*the gray tank is mostly for show, every place I camp allows gray discharge
*no black because of the Laveo toilet (and nobody likes to deal with black)

 

[Bryteayes]

Thank you. We installed highway gears about a month before EcoHubs became available. We have the EvoHubs as well. I have five new tires and just finished installing two 550 biracial solar panels with two 300AH batteries and a 3000w inverter / charger. I got to replace rear sway bar bushings because things were going too smoothly. I just took the giant metal bars off the interior walls this morning.

I like the uncluttered look as well.

 

[Bryteayes]

*bifacial solar panels

I’m waiting for out temps to stay below 108 for a while so I can LizzaerSkin thermal and acoustic the cab. I’m hoping to to the habitat as well.

 

[Bryteayes]

Is there a less painful way to get these metal plates loose other than an impact screwdriver? I had no problems getting the ones off the walls. I have stripped three screws and broken the teeth of five number 3 impact screwdriver bits. And I still have all the plates firmly attached to the floor. View attachment IMG_6698.jpeg

 

[ckouba]

I'm not in a 1079 but I've been in one which has been left in the sun. Do everything you can to combat the heat/cold. They bake. It will render useless all your efforts to get "out there" if it's not comfortable to "be there".

Other than that, I would second Third's recommendation for the quick and dirty layout check. I also did it- just with scraps of lumber I had laying around. It was well worth the effort to experience the layout full size and be able to adjust things as needed. Plus yeah, it does get you out there in it for some motivation.

The first step is the most important though, and Third has it right again. Make a prioritized list of your desired features. This will drive layouts and should answer questions when there are constraints or conflicts. For us, it was #1 stand up height, #2 comfy bed, #3 bathroom/shower, #4 decent galley, #5 storage storage storage.... Fortunately with a 22' box on a 1088, we pretty much have it all.

Build thread is in my signature, feel free to peruse for ideas.

 

[Bryteayes]

I’m already looking for my next ride. I fell victim to the “get a 3116 mechanical engine” hype. My next ride will have six wheels and will have a C7.

 

[Third From Texas]

Is there a less painful way to get these metal plates loose other than an impact screwdriver? I had no problems getting the ones off the walls. I have stripped three screws and broken the teeth of five number 3 impact screwdriver bits. And I still have all the plates firmly attached to the floor. View attachment 930478

They very

I had to use a hand impact and a big hammer to get all the screws to just bust loose.
The screws can be a real bitch, the longer they've sat.
I had to use a grinder cutting wheel to x-cut the heads so the impact could grab a couple of them..

My truck is a 2008 and the floor skids came up easily once the screws were out.

The wall skids on the other hard were near impossible due to the adhesive used (the stuff they used that year was brutal and I wish I could find what they used). I had to use a prybar in some places to break the bond. I ended up with some cuts in the wall skin as a result. And when the plates did fall loose, I almost lost some toes (not advisable to do it solo).

 

[Bryteayes]

My truck is a 1998 but the box is a 2013. It appears that Loctite was on sale that year and they saturated every screw.

 

[Third From Texas]

My truck is a 1998 but the box is a 2013. It appears that Loctite was on sale that year and they saturated every screw.

Just avoid busting out the torch.
The aluminum skin and the enclosed foam aren't particularly fond of it.

There's an aluminum beam that the steel screws are threaded into (unlike metals), and I've seen more floors with corrosion than wall threads.
But you'll get them out. A good soak with some penetratingly oil often helps. If the Philips heads are stripping, just get a cutting wheel and recut the grooves.

 

[Bryteayes]

Just avoid busting out the torch.
The aluminum skin and the enclosed foam aren't particularly fond of it.



There's an aluminum beam that the steel screws are threaded into, and I've seen more floors with corrosion than wall threads.
But you'll get them out. A good soak with some penetratingly oil often helps. If the Philips heads are stripping, just get a cutting wheel and recut the grooves.

I made get try cutting a straight cut and using the standard bit. All my Phillips bits are broken. It seems the harbor freight stuff was made of the strongest material known to mankind next to rancid butter.

 

[pkl2fly]

Welcome,
This will be awesome.
I have a post about my earlier build. I'm on my third iteration and trying to make it as upscale as possible, but before you put lots of effort into permanent work I recommend pulling all of the steel tapping plates out (soak them with kroil, blaster or some other penetrating oil for a couple of days). Get eye bolts that fit ( I think they're 1/4-20 thread) and ratchet strap everything you think you want to camp with. I used cots and then disc-o-beds which are a cot that morphs into a couch. I probably camped a dozen nights over a few months with that set up. I added my shower and toilet first in the front curbside corner in a wet head arrangement got some used gray/black tanks and mounted them directly behind the fuel tank on another set of fuel tank brackets that bolted directly to the frame.

My point is that you have to use it in the field before you really know what works for you. Get out there and do it.

Cheers,
Paul

 

[Bryteayes]

We are taking her out this weekend