M1083 , Electical Issue,Needed Advice would be so appreciated!

[BRob18E]

Hello to all!
The other day while driving my M1083 to Columbus I thought I seen a spark that came from the clamp that clamps down the cover to the fuse panel. (passenger side dash area.) Once I got to Columbus and pickup up some parts, I noticed that when I shut the lights off, AND the power switch, the lights stayed on. Hmmmm, so I pulled the fuse to get them to go off. Then once I got home, I asked my son to pull the panel off so I could put back in the fuse, thinking maybe it magically fixed itself.....yes I'm an idiot sometimes...and when my son went to unlatch the cover, it was sparking and then the truck died. I turned off the power switch. Just to see if it would start, I turned the power button back on and tried to start it and it did not start, I then switched off the power button, and tried to start it again to see if the starter was getting power, since after all, the lights was getting power even though the master switch was off. So what I think is something must be shorting out in order to power the fuse box (some things) even if the master switch is off. When I purchased this, the batteries say "shipped 2014" so it has new batteries in it, when I purchased it six months ago. Is it possible someone hooked the batteries up wrong? Would it of lasted lots of times driving with that happening? I am afraid to do anything at this point as I don't want to do more damage to the electrical system.

Anyone that can point me in the right direction, this would be greatly appreciated. Massively appreciated!! Thanks in advance for your time and knowledge.

 

[Overdrive]

Disconnect your batteries right now! Then take off the power distribution panel cover and see what the heck happened. Sounds like a hot lead came loose or a primary wire rubbed against something to fray the wire and is arcing. Don't try to turn the power on again.

Be very careful taking the battery tray cover off. Yikes don't want to have a battery explode in your face. Fire extinguisher and eye protection a must.

Pull the kick panel next and look around for fried wires. Might have to pull the fuse panel to see what shorted.
If you ever see anything arcing shut down immediately. There are hot leads from the batteries to the power panel all the time and remember your light switch always has power even with master switch off.

 

[Lmtv772]

Wow, I would have pulled over immediately and investigated. You're lucky the truck didn't catch on fire on your trip.
now , the mission is damage assessment. Do what overdrive suggested

 

[Suprman]

There is the polarity protective box in between the main panel leads and the batteries. I don't know what protection it offers in event of a large short though. I have seen panels melted and burnt in places. The first gen panel and dash harness are one piece. Not easy to change. The panel is modular and sections can be replaced. I have the terminals and clips that hold the contacts in the panel. When you take the panel up do it by the screws along the front and back, the metal frame comes up with the plastic panel as one piece.

 

[Suprman]

Looks like this

 

[BRob18E]

I want to thank everyone that gave advice. Also, if anyone is having CTIS issues and air coming out of the front Glad hand, this might be an issue for you as well. As I was taking the fuse panel off, I realized it was only attached to the metal with one screw. Then I realized that the whole (black plastic) fuse panel was moving and was rubbing up against the metal and a positive lead was arching. As with Overdrive's advice (thank you) i checked all the wires for fraying and I found one lead that didn't go anywhere. I found the connection, and once I got it all put back together, and powered it up, everything worked again. My parking brake wasn't working and now is. The front glad hand that had vise grips crimping the hose to prevent air leaking, I took off and no leak, and the CTIC system works great. I am assuming the lead that wasn't connected was going to a valve, and once it started working correctly, the parking brake and air leak up front stopped. So maybe this short was a blessing in disguise.

Thanks to all for the fast reply.

 

[Kambaku]

These vehicles are always a project. Congratulations, I'm glad you are back in business. We all learn a lot from what happens to each and everyone of us. It's a great community of people looking out for one another. I too have been on the receiving end.

 

[coachgeo]

I want to thank everyone that gave advice. Also, if anyone is having CTIS issues and air coming out of the front Glad hand, this might be an issue for you as well. As I was taking the fuse panel off, I realized it was only attached to the metal with one screw. Then I realized that the whole (black plastic) fuse panel was moving and was rubbing up against the metal and a positive lead was arching. As with Overdrive's advice (thank you) i checked all the wires for fraying and I found one lead that didn't go anywhere. I found the connection, and once I got it all put back together, and powered it up, everything worked again. My parking brake wasn't working and now is. The front glad hand that had vise grips crimping the hose to prevent air leaking, I took off and no leak, and the CTIC system works great. I am assuming the lead that wasn't connected was going to a valve, and once it started working correctly,....

It could greatly help others if you would pull that panel again and identify the wire that was frayed and where you plugged it up too. MUCH THANX in advance.

 

[BRob18E]

Will do, I will make it happen tomorrow. I agree, I read forum after forum after forum with people with the same issue, "air out of the front glad hand, CTIS not working and parking brake won't engage" and its crazy, one disconnected wire under the panel and once hooked back up, fixed everything!! wow the time and effort and research. Like I said, maybe this short was a blessing for me.

 

[BRob18E]

coachgeo I'm North of Cincinnati as well. Where are you from? I'm in Liberty Township. Between Monroe and West Chester.

 

[coachgeo]

coachgeo I'm North of Cincinnati as well. Where are you from? I'm in Liberty Township. Between Monroe and West Chester.

Apparently Im about 20 30 min from you. PMed ya

 

[Overdrive]

I want to thank everyone that gave advice. Also, if anyone is having CTIS issues and air coming out of the front Glad hand, this might be an issue for you as well. As I was taking the fuse panel off, I realized it was only attached to the metal with one screw. Then I realized that the whole (black plastic) fuse panel was moving and was rubbing up against the metal and a positive lead was arching. As with Overdrive's advice (thank you) i checked all the wires for fraying and I found one lead that didn't go anywhere. I found the connection, and once I got it all put back together, and powered it up, everything worked again. My parking brake wasn't working and now is. The front glad hand that had vise grips crimping the hose to prevent air leaking, I took off and no leak, and the CTIC system works great. I am assuming the lead that wasn't connected was going to a valve, and once it started working correctly, the parking brake and air leak up front stopped. So maybe this short was a blessing in disguise.

Thanks to all for the fast reply.

FANTASTIC! Glad you found the issue so quickly!!!
OD