M1083A1 or m923A2?

[ramdough]

All,

Thank you very much for all of your help. So that I do not overdo the questions, I plan to read the TM's before I get too much further.

Everyone has been extremely helpful. I appreciate it!

I think right now that I will leave the air cleaner, coolant tank, dip sticks in place. I will relocate the air-hydraulic unit and the controls. Remove the tire carrier and suspension cylinders. Remove as much of the brackets and air transport lift bars.

The pass through will be as close to the air cleaner as I can be, but I will be ok with a slightly off center pass through in order to make it comfortably wide.

I would like to use the controls for the tire lift (or suspension cylinders) to control 4 push-pull 36" pistons for raising the camper roof. I will have to figure out if I have enough fluid capacity and flow rate to lift the roof. I would consider increasing the hydraulic capacity, but if the speed is unbearable, I will have to switch to a PTO hydraulic pump. If the standard hydraulic pump is sufficient, I will move the hydraulic controls into a spot that will be accessible from within the camper and the outside, if not I will leave the hydraulic controls in place and use the PTO controls in the cab. Any thoughts in the PTO vs air-hydraulic pump?

Thanks



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[Suprman]

Newer uparmor truck have an electric hyd pump. I can get one.

 

[MGKMartin]

The stock pump is pretty low volume and slow. You would probably be happier with a standard PTO driven pump and the larger hydraulic tank. This would also allow you to use the side mounted winch in case you ever got stuck. I don't have a spare PTO, but have the winch, tank, mounts, interior controls, and everything else.

 

[ramdough]

How would the PTO system compare to the electric hydraulic pumps?


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[Suprman]

Electric will run the cab lift and accessories. To run a winch or heavy demand item you need the pto.

 

[ramdough]

Do you know the working pressure and flow rate for the electric pumps?

What is the duty cycle?

In my case, I am looking at 4ea 36" travel rams. I need pressure to calculate ram area and rate to know long it takes to lift my camper roof.

Thanks


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[ramdough]

........ Since I am turning my 1088A1 into a 1083A1P2, I am extending my frame rails and will mount everything in the original ......

Are you converting everything to match?

Are you going to swap out the CTIS controller so you get the lower pressure set points?

Are you going to swap springs for the lower weight ratings?

Thanks


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[Suprman]

Theres no point to swapping springs its alot of work for no gain. The ctis controller part numbers appear the same in the manual. Having spoken to several mil mechanics in search of the elusive Y cable that allows ctis programming it would appear none of the units have it. I think the tractor has the same ctis as the cargo.

 

[ramdough]

Theres no point to swapping springs its alot of work for no gain. The ctis controller part numbers appear the same in the manual. Having spoken to several mil mechanics in search of the elusive Y cable that allows ctis programming it would appear none of the units have it. I think the tractor has the same ctis as the cargo.

Hmmmmm the TM said the pressures were different. Almost one set point higher in each case. Do you know what pressure your 1088 is at for each set point?


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[MGKMartin]

I am converting most of the 1088a1 into 1083a1p2 specs with the addition of the hunter gun box armor and the 1151 motorized turret with gunner protection kit. It won't be 100% accurate, but will be pretty close. Bed, subframe, framerail extensions, light boxes, rear cross-member for the pintle, etc are all coming from the 1083a1 parts truck so that will match exactly. The subframe attachment plates are different and I haven't decided how I want to handle that yet. I can swap the plates, but it's a lot of work. I may just weld an extension on the 1088 plate.

1088a1 CTIS is supposed to be set higher, but pressure readings are the same as my 1083a1. It is possible Barstow put a 1083 controller in but I'm not going to worry about it. If it becomes a problem after I get the armor on, I have a NIB controller from a Caiman II that I can swap in.

I am leaving the springs alone and not changing them. As Will points out, there is no benefit to it and I am adding ~10,000 lbs of armor to the back for the gun bed plus the weight of the LTAS cab so the extra weight rating is nice.

 

[ramdough]

Do the cab air springs need to be changed at all with the added cab weight, or do they take the added pressure?

Thanks


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[XCRV]

Very helpful thread. Now I too am considering a M1088. They're much more abundant on GP than the M1083.

Any updates ramdough?