Hello everyone, I didn't want to hijack anyone else's posting so I'm starting this one. If this needs to be moved somewhere else, okay. Sorry if this thread is long but I want to get out as much info as possible.
My truck is a 2002 Stewart & Stevenson M1083A1, 3126 Caterpillar. I purchased it through GovPlanet as a crank but no start truck and other issues! Since taking the truck into my possession I have been working on numerous issues with it between work, family, and honey-do's.
First off I wash and cleaned the truck inside and out and replaced all, yes all four batteries. Cleaned the battery box, cleaned, checked and coated all battery cable once installed. Cables and voltages are good. Batteries put on trickle charger. Tried starting it again with the same results, crank, no start. Power was going to K11 and K26 LED lights up.
(In between trying to get the engine running, I done a lot. Replaced the water separator/prime pump, replaced the fuel filter, blasted and powder coated all the wheels and replaced all the tires, replaced the rear sway arm bushings, replaced tie rod and drag link grease cups, had all 3 drive shafts rebuilt, cleaned the fuel tank and replaced the pickup and new fuel, rebuilt the AHU, fixed the door closing and window closing issues, keyed the door locks, replaced the seats, rebuilt and painted the troop seats, put on new bed cover kit, changed all lights to LED, except the headlight at this time, replaced rear glad hands and tubing, replaced all mud flaps, and much more)
Took apart the battery disconnect box and cleaned all part and wires and terminals and reinstalled. All good, good voltage before and after the disconnect. Took all the wires off the LBCD, cleaned lugs, wires and contacts, used dielectric grease, reconnected and all good with voltage check.
So over the past couple month I have been reading a lot of the TM's, reading a heck of a lot of SS post and watched a lot youtube videos (holly crap, my mind is now mush!). Issues I have was trying to get straight is difference between the A0 and A1's, especially with the electrical system, when trying to trouble shoot.
Removed the PDP and checked the circuit board, looked great, really clean, and good solder joints. Removed and cleaned all the connection points on the board and replaced all the relays and circuit breakers, top and bottom. Crank, no start.
I tried to find every electrical connection I could find, clean and use dielectric grease and reconnect. Crank, no start.
Going on info from SS posts and Adept Ape youtube videos I checked the ECM and EMI. Checked for the voltages on the 70 pin connector and all looked good from the info I had. Connections were cleaned and reinstalled. Crank, no start.
So, now to the HEUI which I have no knowledge except from what I read and viewed. I check all the connections and did everything Adept Ape suggested. Crank, no start.
Now to the injectors. Per Adept Ape youtube instructions I removed the valve cover and check the voltage going to the injectors. No voltage found coming to the injectors...ECM?
I removed all the wire connections to the aux relay for the starter and cleaned and checked the wires, reinstalled. I also removed the four connections to the alternator and the ground strap and found the one front connections, the front wire beside the LED light was only connected by a couple strands of wire. Cleaned all the connection and replaced the bad one and reinstalled. NO START...WTH? K11 is now not energized and LED light is out. Went back and checked all the connections and the wires I had just cleaned. Could not find a problem so I checked for continuity on the wires I cleaned and all were good, at least as far as I could see. OMG, I smell toast, do you smell toast?
Well, the no start issue has me perplexed. What the hell did I do?
Well, for the crank no start issue that I had, I'm now thinking it is the ECM or the HEUI pump for the no start issue, so I went to my last resort and called a diesel mechanic with a computer to talk to the truck and to see if he can find the problem.
It's now Tuesday, and the mechanic showed up. He checked out the engine out and set up his computer. I told him about the no crank issue now and he put on the remote start switch on the aux starter relay. Well, to try to make this long thread shorter, he worked on it for about 45 minutes and could not get it to start. He said that the ECM was talking to his computer and after check the HEUI he seemed a little stump. He said that it my be the injectors. I told him my issue with checking for voltage on the injections and not finding any. He bled the fuel lines and said that there was a lot fuel pressure going into the head. He took off the valve cover and commented that the truck must have been sitting for years to have so much rust on top of the rocker arms like that. He said that last seen that much rust on the rocker arms was with a truck he worked on that had been setting for 4-5 years. He cranked the engine several different times and said that he through it is the injectors. As he was cranking the engine I checked for voltage to the injectors but could not fine any. The mechanic didn't seemed concerned and continued his work.
For about 30 minutes he tried to start the engine while hitting the injectors with a mallet. After about 20 minutes white smoke starting coming out the exhaust pipe. After about another 10 minutes you could tell the engine wanted to start, smoking more and engine speed getting faster. Another 6-7 minutes of beating on the injectors the engine started running but was putting out a lot of dark smoke. After running for several minutes the smoke lighten up a little but was still dark smoke. I checked for blowby and found some, but the engine was running now, and that was a huge plus for me!!! The mechanic said that the injectors were frozen up probably from sitting for a long period of time. Injectors, who knew???
The alternator seems to be working, the LED's on the alternator are flashing green...I guess that is good? The compressor was producing air and no unusual noises were found at this time, yeah!
The mechanic said that the smoke could clear up with running the engine and putting a load on it, driving it, or it may need new injectors...who knows? WHO? The blowby is probably a ring issue, but I will take care of that a little later. I ran the engine for 30-35 minutes but the smoke didn't clear up or get any lighter.
I spent all that time looking and checking for things that it wasn't, but at least I know the truck better now and the things I worked on are better, EXCEPT, for the no crank issue now at the cab start button.
Checked the transmission selector for codes. Turn on power and "N" shows on the single window. On initial power activation the mode light comes on and then goes out. Checked for codes and this is what it displays:
d111323
d2-
d3-
d4-
d5-
I've been trying to figure out what happened from the "cranking no start" to the no "cranking now". I'm just a little frustrated right now and having a big brain fart!
So, I and could use a little help and direction with the no crank issue now, please!
Also, any suggestions with the engine smoking/injectors?
I have found reman injectors that will replace the ones in the truck for, $300 each...comments?
Tom.
My truck is a 2002 Stewart & Stevenson M1083A1, 3126 Caterpillar. I purchased it through GovPlanet as a crank but no start truck and other issues! Since taking the truck into my possession I have been working on numerous issues with it between work, family, and honey-do's.
First off I wash and cleaned the truck inside and out and replaced all, yes all four batteries. Cleaned the battery box, cleaned, checked and coated all battery cable once installed. Cables and voltages are good. Batteries put on trickle charger. Tried starting it again with the same results, crank, no start. Power was going to K11 and K26 LED lights up.
(In between trying to get the engine running, I done a lot. Replaced the water separator/prime pump, replaced the fuel filter, blasted and powder coated all the wheels and replaced all the tires, replaced the rear sway arm bushings, replaced tie rod and drag link grease cups, had all 3 drive shafts rebuilt, cleaned the fuel tank and replaced the pickup and new fuel, rebuilt the AHU, fixed the door closing and window closing issues, keyed the door locks, replaced the seats, rebuilt and painted the troop seats, put on new bed cover kit, changed all lights to LED, except the headlight at this time, replaced rear glad hands and tubing, replaced all mud flaps, and much more)
Took apart the battery disconnect box and cleaned all part and wires and terminals and reinstalled. All good, good voltage before and after the disconnect. Took all the wires off the LBCD, cleaned lugs, wires and contacts, used dielectric grease, reconnected and all good with voltage check.
So over the past couple month I have been reading a lot of the TM's, reading a heck of a lot of SS post and watched a lot youtube videos (holly crap, my mind is now mush!). Issues I have was trying to get straight is difference between the A0 and A1's, especially with the electrical system, when trying to trouble shoot.
Removed the PDP and checked the circuit board, looked great, really clean, and good solder joints. Removed and cleaned all the connection points on the board and replaced all the relays and circuit breakers, top and bottom. Crank, no start.
I tried to find every electrical connection I could find, clean and use dielectric grease and reconnect. Crank, no start.
Going on info from SS posts and Adept Ape youtube videos I checked the ECM and EMI. Checked for the voltages on the 70 pin connector and all looked good from the info I had. Connections were cleaned and reinstalled. Crank, no start.
So, now to the HEUI which I have no knowledge except from what I read and viewed. I check all the connections and did everything Adept Ape suggested. Crank, no start.
Now to the injectors. Per Adept Ape youtube instructions I removed the valve cover and check the voltage going to the injectors. No voltage found coming to the injectors...ECM?
I removed all the wire connections to the aux relay for the starter and cleaned and checked the wires, reinstalled. I also removed the four connections to the alternator and the ground strap and found the one front connections, the front wire beside the LED light was only connected by a couple strands of wire. Cleaned all the connection and replaced the bad one and reinstalled. NO START...WTH? K11 is now not energized and LED light is out. Went back and checked all the connections and the wires I had just cleaned. Could not find a problem so I checked for continuity on the wires I cleaned and all were good, at least as far as I could see. OMG, I smell toast, do you smell toast?
Well, the no start issue has me perplexed. What the hell did I do?
Well, for the crank no start issue that I had, I'm now thinking it is the ECM or the HEUI pump for the no start issue, so I went to my last resort and called a diesel mechanic with a computer to talk to the truck and to see if he can find the problem.
It's now Tuesday, and the mechanic showed up. He checked out the engine out and set up his computer. I told him about the no crank issue now and he put on the remote start switch on the aux starter relay. Well, to try to make this long thread shorter, he worked on it for about 45 minutes and could not get it to start. He said that the ECM was talking to his computer and after check the HEUI he seemed a little stump. He said that it my be the injectors. I told him my issue with checking for voltage on the injections and not finding any. He bled the fuel lines and said that there was a lot fuel pressure going into the head. He took off the valve cover and commented that the truck must have been sitting for years to have so much rust on top of the rocker arms like that. He said that last seen that much rust on the rocker arms was with a truck he worked on that had been setting for 4-5 years. He cranked the engine several different times and said that he through it is the injectors. As he was cranking the engine I checked for voltage to the injectors but could not fine any. The mechanic didn't seemed concerned and continued his work.
For about 30 minutes he tried to start the engine while hitting the injectors with a mallet. After about 20 minutes white smoke starting coming out the exhaust pipe. After about another 10 minutes you could tell the engine wanted to start, smoking more and engine speed getting faster. Another 6-7 minutes of beating on the injectors the engine started running but was putting out a lot of dark smoke. After running for several minutes the smoke lighten up a little but was still dark smoke. I checked for blowby and found some, but the engine was running now, and that was a huge plus for me!!! The mechanic said that the injectors were frozen up probably from sitting for a long period of time. Injectors, who knew???
The alternator seems to be working, the LED's on the alternator are flashing green...I guess that is good? The compressor was producing air and no unusual noises were found at this time, yeah!
The mechanic said that the smoke could clear up with running the engine and putting a load on it, driving it, or it may need new injectors...who knows? WHO? The blowby is probably a ring issue, but I will take care of that a little later. I ran the engine for 30-35 minutes but the smoke didn't clear up or get any lighter.
I spent all that time looking and checking for things that it wasn't, but at least I know the truck better now and the things I worked on are better, EXCEPT, for the no crank issue now at the cab start button.
Checked the transmission selector for codes. Turn on power and "N" shows on the single window. On initial power activation the mode light comes on and then goes out. Checked for codes and this is what it displays:
d111323
d2-
d3-
d4-
d5-
I've been trying to figure out what happened from the "cranking no start" to the no "cranking now". I'm just a little frustrated right now and having a big brain fart!
So, I and could use a little help and direction with the no crank issue now, please!
Also, any suggestions with the engine smoking/injectors?
I have found reman injectors that will replace the ones in the truck for, $300 each...comments?
Tom.
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