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M1088 camper conversion

mauinate

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Location
Canyon Lake, CA
I’m building my own box. 2x3 steel for the main frame with 16ga studs. I’ll sheet probably with frp or aluminum. Rear tire carrier with storage too. I thought I didn’t want to tow, but just realized not every trip is an off road adventure. Lots of local trips I’d like to take a dirt bike or sxs along. So had to modify the design to keep some sort of towing capability involved. The ability to tow a lot and rescue from the rear hitch is a big plus in these trucks for me.
 

mauinate

Member
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63
18
Location
Canyon Lake, CA
I always forget things as I go along. In the next few weeks hopefully I’ll have some plans from my fabricator that I can share regarding extending the hitch out under the overhang. Maybe that will help...
 

ckouba

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Oregon
Christmas came early, and wrapped in little orange ribbons:



It's the initial supplies to complete the subframe and build the floor:


Upper rails in place, but need to get trimmed:


Also need to get notched out to allow clearance around the transmission mounts:




I had some pieces laser cut to make up the spring perches for the subframe:






Still have a couple of hurdles to clear but for the most part, everything is coming together. It is a very exciting time!
 

coachgeo

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Location
North of Cincy OH
Christmas came early, and wrapped in little orange ribbons:

s the initial supplies to complete the subframe and build the floor:

Upper rails in place, but need to get trimmed:


Also need to get notched out to allow clearance around the transmission mounts:
laser cut to make up the spring perches for the subframe:






Still have a couple of hurdles to clear but for the most part, everything is coming together. It is a very exciting time!
on the upper and lower captured spring set up or elsewhere have a way to when settled down.... the perches can somehow nest together to prevent lateral motion. The m1079 used this nested method. Other Overland. trucks have used down riggers from camper's sub chassis that slide along the truck's chassis to prevent unwanted motion of the box side to side.
 
Last edited:

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
TN .
Christmas came early, and wrapped in little orange ribbons:



It's the initial supplies to complete the subframe and build the floor:


Upper rails in place, but need to get trimmed:


Also need to get notched out to allow clearance around the transmission mounts:




I had some pieces laser cut to make up the spring perches for the subframe:






Still have a couple of hurdles to clear but for the most part, everything is coming together. It is a very exciting time!
on the upper captured spring set up or elsewhere have a way to when settled down.... have the perchs some how nested together to prevent lateral motion. The m1079 used this nested method. Other exped. trucks have used down riggers from sub chassis that slide along the truck chassis to prevent unwanted motion of the box side to side.
Great looking work ive got a question in what kind of poundage will the red springs your useing support like could they be used in place of cab air bag suspension ? If i can find the right spring for cab to rest on i will yank the air bags out asap.
 

Reworked LMTV

Well-known member
1,449
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113
Location
TN
Christmas came early, and wrapped in little orange ribbons:



It's the initial supplies to complete the subframe and build the floor:


Upper rails in place, but need to get trimmed:


Also need to get notched out to allow clearance around the transmission mounts:




I had some pieces laser cut to make up the spring perches for the subframe:






Still have a couple of hurdles to clear but for the most part, everything is coming together. It is a very exciting time!
Just curious what you paid for the large box beams. I need to plan my budget.
 

Reworked LMTV

Well-known member
1,449
1,124
113
Location
TN
Christmas came early, and wrapped in little orange ribbons:



It's the initial supplies to complete the subframe and build the floor:


Upper rails in place, but need to get trimmed:


Also need to get notched out to allow clearance around the transmission mounts:




I had some pieces laser cut to make up the spring perches for the subframe:






Still have a couple of hurdles to clear but for the most part, everything is coming together. It is a very exciting time!
Did you use 3/16 or 1/4" box beams?
 

ckouba

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
562
1,527
93
Location
Oregon
on the upper and lower captured spring set up or elsewhere have a way to when settled down.... the perches can somehow nest together to prevent lateral motion. The m1079 used this nested method. Other Overland. trucks have used down riggers from camper's sub chassis that slide along the truck's chassis to prevent unwanted motion of the box side to side.
Yep, it's in the plans but will be separate from the perches.
 

ckouba

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
562
1,527
93
Location
Oregon
Great looking work ive got a question in what kind of poundage will the red springs your useing support like could they be used in place of cab air bag suspension ? If i can find the right spring for cab to rest on i will yank the air bags out asap.
Chucky-

There will be three perches per side, evenly(-ish) spaced along the rails so I chose 3 different rates to keep the applied force even along the length of the rail. There is a wide variety of sizes and rates, just google "die springs" and peruse. I would wager you can find whatever you might be seeking. I found mine at Grainger:


Happy hunting!

Your rig looks fantastic BTW.
 

ckouba

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
562
1,527
93
Location
Oregon
Just curious what you paid for the large box beams. I need to plan my budget.
2 - 6" x 3" x .180" (3/16") x 20'
7 - 2' x 3" x .120" x 20'
1 - 4" x 2" x .120" x 20'
1 - 1" OD x .120" wall round, 20'

Total was $1200, loaded on my truck, I don't remember the break down. This is enough to build what would effectively be a flatbed for the truck. Once that's done, I'll go back for more.

The whole thing will be above the transmission.
 

Reworked LMTV

Well-known member
1,449
1,124
113
Location
TN
2 - 6" x 3" x .180" (3/16") x 20'
7 - 2' x 3" x .120" x 20'
1 - 4" x 2" x .120" x 20'
1 - 1" OD x .120" wall round, 20'

Total was $1200, loaded on my truck, I don't remember the break down. This is enough to build what would effectively be a flatbed for the truck. Once that's done, I'll go back for more.

The whole thing will be above the transmission.
Thank you I appreciate the help!
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,444
18,473
113
Location
TN .
Just curious what you paid for the large box beams. I need to plan my budget.
Chucky-

There will be three perches per side, evenly(-ish) spaced along the rails so I chose 3 different rates to keep the applied force even along the length of the rail. There is a wide variety of sizes and rates, just google "die springs" and peruse. I would wager you can find whatever you might be seeking. I found mine at Grainger:


Happy hunting!

Your rig looks fantastic BTW.
Thanks its been a labor of love or lol ! I dont see why they wouldnt hold the cab in one spot till u hit a bump . I as everybody in here build a pass thru box will need a permanant resting location for the cab for the pass thru to seal correctly but have enough give for the small amount of travel between the two .
 

ckouba

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
562
1,527
93
Location
Oregon
Made some more progress today. First order of business was assembly of all the perches:



Next was to trim the upper rails to proper length. These were too awkward to set up on the saw, so I set the saw up on them. Some C- and trigger clamps did the trick, just had to support the free end by hand as the cut finished:


Next was to see how everything lined up, including the section I channeled for the trans mount. Happily, I only measured once and only cut once:


Trans mount notch lined up perfectly


With everything on the truck, I finalized the locations for the spring perches. With the upper rail pinned at the cab end, I have a pair at 5', 9' 6", and 15'. I measured out the rails and started drilling. I clamped the perch into position and using a bushing I made on the lathe, drilled pilot holes in all the appropriate places.

Perch clamped in place with the drill rig in action:


Piloted with a 3/16" bit, opened it with a 7/16" bit, then stepped up to 5/8". Planned on going to 1" and welding in crush tubes to reinforce the rail, but something let the smoke out of the drill and it quit working. I didn't feel like going to Home Depot (just bought the drill) on Black Friday, so I just called it a day. I may get up tomorrow and go.

Despite losing the one battle with the drill, it was quite a victorious day. I've had this design in my head for a long time and had the sketches laid out on the computer for a while as well, but it's nice to see that it all seems to be coming together as desired. Getting the upper rail tied to the lower rail to effectively complete the subframe construction will be a major milestone.

One step at a time though...
 
Last edited:

Ohiobenz

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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261
63
Location
Seville, OH
If the pic of the notched beam is the final location with regards to the transmission mount, I would recommend a plate to restore strength to that area, just in case.
 
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