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- Pryor Oklahoma
Is this fan designed to stay on all of the time or does it operate off of the trans temperature somehow? I've searched the TMs and cannot seem to find the answer. (Of course not saying it isn't in there somewhere).
Mine is not running all the time but does come on occasionally. When I stopped to refuel the diesel tank seemed very hot to me but trans temp light never came on and water temp stayed under 200 degrees. Engine fan would come on occasionally as well since I was just taking it easy. Using a temp gun the trans pan was about 220 degrees.
I'm trying to get a M1088 home to Oklahoma from Bardstown Ky. I had to have a rear driveshaft built in Louisville because there was not one in it but I knew that going into this. It made the price right in the Auction so I went for it. The part numbers listed here helped a ton and thank you to everyone for the great threads and info. One weird thing on the shaft, the truck had the D stamp by the Vin but when I gave the shop the spicer numbers for the driveshaft parts the said it was for a 4" shaft and the one I brought to them was a 3 1/2" shaft. They also said it was a very thick wall material. When I was installing the driveshaft the rear yoke had Significant play and I assume this probably caused the driveshaft failure in the first place. I went ahead and drove it 200 miles taking back roads and cruising at about 45 mph. I didn't feel comfortable doing it and I just kept waiting for it to throw the new 1,300 driveshaft out (that was new yokes as well). Not sure which is which but part numbers are
S15-4-6281X - end yoke - paid $240
S15-46261-1 - end yoke - paid $267.
All the driveshaft numbers are on the sticky - they used 17" of S132-30-72
I Made it to Paducah Ky last night and ordered the rear end pinion bearings and seals this morning which will be here tomorrow. All part numbers in the TM came right up and we're easily ordered.
bearings are Timken, HM813844 and a 66589.
seals are A 1205 U 2257 and 1205 F 2502
I've looked at the TMs and some more helpful threads and it doesn't seem like it will be to tough of a job. Remove driveshaft, (I did also buy another new u-joint today just in case,,, their number was 2104*5279X at the local Mack shop) use a 2 3/16 socket to remove yoke nut and then pull the pinion nose out after removing the 8 bolts holding it in. I had to replace the yokes as well so it should come off easier then the broken ones did. Replace bearings, races, and seals, install the nose and driveshaft, and be on my way. I'm not sure why I get myself into these situations but I guess that's half the fun of it huh? So I will find a nice parking lot tomorrow, I have drain pans and oil diapers to make sure I don't make a mess.
Oh, I also had to replace that small o-ring on the cab release. It was puking oil out of the latch side and couldn't raise the cab it was so bad. While reading more TMs today I figured out that the lower right knob on the cab raising console that says "cab" and also (push and turn to right to lock) is to engage the cab airbags. Didn't have it in the first 200 miles, cannot wait to try it with the air ride.
other than that just typical CTIS gremlins but tires are all up. All the lights work and blinkers. Steering tilt lock know was gone so I had to rig up a bolt nut washer washer washer setup that holds ok for now.
Again, the threads on this was a great help. I know this is a long post just to ask that one question but wanted to share just in case it can help some buddy else someday. Thanks! I will let you know how it goes and take some pictures as well.
Mine is not running all the time but does come on occasionally. When I stopped to refuel the diesel tank seemed very hot to me but trans temp light never came on and water temp stayed under 200 degrees. Engine fan would come on occasionally as well since I was just taking it easy. Using a temp gun the trans pan was about 220 degrees.
I'm trying to get a M1088 home to Oklahoma from Bardstown Ky. I had to have a rear driveshaft built in Louisville because there was not one in it but I knew that going into this. It made the price right in the Auction so I went for it. The part numbers listed here helped a ton and thank you to everyone for the great threads and info. One weird thing on the shaft, the truck had the D stamp by the Vin but when I gave the shop the spicer numbers for the driveshaft parts the said it was for a 4" shaft and the one I brought to them was a 3 1/2" shaft. They also said it was a very thick wall material. When I was installing the driveshaft the rear yoke had Significant play and I assume this probably caused the driveshaft failure in the first place. I went ahead and drove it 200 miles taking back roads and cruising at about 45 mph. I didn't feel comfortable doing it and I just kept waiting for it to throw the new 1,300 driveshaft out (that was new yokes as well). Not sure which is which but part numbers are
S15-4-6281X - end yoke - paid $240
S15-46261-1 - end yoke - paid $267.
All the driveshaft numbers are on the sticky - they used 17" of S132-30-72
I Made it to Paducah Ky last night and ordered the rear end pinion bearings and seals this morning which will be here tomorrow. All part numbers in the TM came right up and we're easily ordered.
bearings are Timken, HM813844 and a 66589.
seals are A 1205 U 2257 and 1205 F 2502
I've looked at the TMs and some more helpful threads and it doesn't seem like it will be to tough of a job. Remove driveshaft, (I did also buy another new u-joint today just in case,,, their number was 2104*5279X at the local Mack shop) use a 2 3/16 socket to remove yoke nut and then pull the pinion nose out after removing the 8 bolts holding it in. I had to replace the yokes as well so it should come off easier then the broken ones did. Replace bearings, races, and seals, install the nose and driveshaft, and be on my way. I'm not sure why I get myself into these situations but I guess that's half the fun of it huh? So I will find a nice parking lot tomorrow, I have drain pans and oil diapers to make sure I don't make a mess.
Oh, I also had to replace that small o-ring on the cab release. It was puking oil out of the latch side and couldn't raise the cab it was so bad. While reading more TMs today I figured out that the lower right knob on the cab raising console that says "cab" and also (push and turn to right to lock) is to engage the cab airbags. Didn't have it in the first 200 miles, cannot wait to try it with the air ride.
other than that just typical CTIS gremlins but tires are all up. All the lights work and blinkers. Steering tilt lock know was gone so I had to rig up a bolt nut washer washer washer setup that holds ok for now.
Again, the threads on this was a great help. I know this is a long post just to ask that one question but wanted to share just in case it can help some buddy else someday. Thanks! I will let you know how it goes and take some pictures as well.
