M109A3 Shelter Conversion

[RECONJON]

Another nice day and I got the interior of the cab painted.

 

[RECONJON]

Can anyone help here. I have Two slave ports. One on the cab and another on the shop van. They are both two pin but different. Im looking for a solution to run power in van of truck. All help is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Clay James]

The top one is for shore power and takes a special, expensive plug that almost never comes with the 109s. I installed a Marinco outlet to power it.

 

[Kohburn]

thats the ticket - replace the one on the van box with a non-military commercial standard plug

 

[quickfarms]

Can anyone help here. I have Two slave ports. One on the cab and another on the shop van. They are both two pin but different. Im looking for a solution to run power in van of truck. All help is appreciated.

Thanks

View attachment 397992View attachment 397993

The one on the cab is the standard military 24 volt two pin slave plug.

The one the box is an industrial 60 amp connector for the 110 volt circuits. The connector is available but it is very costly new and you have to be carefull buying one off of flee bay dud to the variations. The part number has been posted on here before. Due to the fact that this is a commercial product there are many manufactures. Commercially it is known as a pin and sleeve connector, 60 amp, 2 pin, 2 wire.

 

[scottjhl]

Right now only two reasons for the ramp as opposed to the standard ladder set up. Besides the additional storage.

Max and his Mate Sasha.
Hopefully we will have a half dozen little ones by spring.

very good.. I had figured that it was due to the 4 legged species!

 

[RECONJON]

Is the outlet swap difficult, I have not looked into it yet. I hope it doesnt involve a lot of tear dowm to access necessary connections. I do have an uninstalled slave port with the two pin, but looking at the attached hardware, it appears that I need to get inside the wall for a terminal connection.

The one on the cab is the standard military 24 volt two pin slave plug.

The one the box is an industrial 60 amp connector for the 110 volt circuits. The connector is available but it is very costly new and you have to be carefull buying one off of flee bay dud to the variations. The part number has been posted on here before. Due to the fact that this is a commercial product there are many manufactures. Commercially it is known as a pin and sleeve connector, 60 amp, 2 pin, 2 wire.

I have another electrical hook up that runs the 110V power strips and overhead lighting when I attact that pig tail to a regular extension cord.



What I want to be able to do is run the van off the truck in an off grid capacity. I intend on having batteries recharged by solar also that will run any appliance or electronics. Redundancy isnt a concern, the more back ups the better.

 

[RECONJON]

Interior of cab is done, fresh rubber membrane down on the floor. Ramp is painted waiting for rubber runner and then sliding in. I sanded down, primed and painted the bumper. Perparing for new call letters on the bumper. Anyone know how to find original ID on this truck?

 

[RECONJON]

Seats are back in, cab interior painted. Heater has been installed and blows hot air! Couple things for anyone purchasing a heater to install in a deuce. 5 Tonsvheaters work but need mods for under hood install. In cab install works great, lose a little foot room. When you get one from a parts truck, get the electrical parts. The jumper, cuircut breaker, and the 2 way connector. Also get all the elbows, the side panel hood, and any ducting for the defroster. All ducting is easily found at local hardware store if you need. Lots of clamps will be used in this install as well. Bla Ba...The pics

 

[stampy]

Wow this is so cool. When I did my floor in the box (mine was rotten too) I put in boxes underneath in between the frame rails for storage. Works great as long as you don't cover the hinged lids!

 

[RECONJON]

Heat works great, and ramp has proved to be well invested time.

 

[RECONJON]

I did a full paint on frame, axles and body. Added an antenna, painted the wheels and full undercoating applied. Lots of fun! Only a couple pics are avail at the moment.

 

[FatBuddhaBoo]

Looking good!

On the inside of the door, did you just spray that with paint or is that something else???

 

[Vintage iron]

Looks good! Can't wait to see it at this years COMVEC show. I have some brand new interior lights if you need some.

 

[RECONJON]

On the door I removed access panel and sprayed undercoating on the inside of the door, a little redundant, but she's a keeper. "Sexy Beast", so all the preventative measures are part of extending her life.

 

[MWMULES]

Can anyone help here. I have Two slave ports. One on the cab and another on the shop van. They are both two pin but different. Im looking for a solution to run power in van of truck. All help is appreciated.

Thanks

I don't think anybody answered your question yet but you should already have 24V to the box from the truck to power the heater, ext fan and 24V lights. Can't tell from your posted pic's, but it should be on the pass side that little wire running up the side of the box is 24V supply line. The military circuit breaker (the little oval giggidy with 2 wires) is at the bottom and the connector that goes into the box is at the top. Just inboard from the


circuit breaker about a foot there should be a lug with a nut and wire that goes down and that is what grounds the box to the frame. You can just barely see it back there in the 1st picture to the left of the slave port.

 

[RECONJON]

Thanks for that info, I have followed your instructions and fully under stand it now. I do have the 24V going to the box as you mentioned with 24v lights, blower and heater. Thanks again on that. Now I have another question, can i run any of the 110v outlets in the power strips mounted on the walls. As things are now, I plug an extension cord on to that pig tail off the box and get those powered up, I can also run, blower, and heater when the power is coming from house at 110, main breaker in 110 position. When that main breaker is in 24v position its gets power from truck, but I have not figured out if another of the switches on the wall will take that 24v and power those 110v outlets and lights. I do have the slave as well have not been able to test that option yet.

 

[Vintage iron]

It is easier to separate the systems.

 

[RECONJON]

Hi Matt,
Not sure what you mean. I want use of the 110 outlets with the trucks power. Now I get power to those from the pig tail to house connection. I dont want to install another generator/alt. Just want that 24V from the truck to power the 110 in the box. Im hoping that the Army already has it covered and with the right switches in position and the 24V from truck jumped to box I can eliminate the need for the house to power the 110. I know the main has a setting to where it gets the power and when in 24v position will run the 24v lights, blower and heater. Now when im plugged into the house and switch main to 110 I can still run, blower and heater, so im thinking there is something that allows the blower and heater to run on both 110 and 24v setting, in 110 i need house for power. Would like to eliminate the need for the house.
I will be at COMVEC and Maybe MD. Do you have any trailers road worthy to texas 1 way? I'm looking for a bargain one, maybe in need of some cosmetic repair but sound otherwise. CT's latest ramming of their liberal agenda down our throats has hastened our exodus, and ill be needing some more cargo capacity, the dogs, guns and gold ride in the box.

 

[moving chicane]

No the army never installed the option for 24v DC to 110v AC. The converter box next to your fuse panel makes 110v AC into 24v DC, but not the other way around. You would need to install an inverter into the system to get AC from the truck. If you did that then the 24V feed wire would need to be upgraded for the increased draw. Most people will have added a second battery bank by that point, so that the starting batteries aren't killed from over use.