- 458
- 75
- 28
- Location
- Beaumont in SoCal
I have a 2010 M1102 and built a spare tire carrier:
![001web.jpg 001web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/342/342178-f4a00e38b3c1cee1d783424c0b1904db.jpg)
![002web.jpg 002web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341992-57a87ecf0d761fc04f1e89a4f028d395.jpg)
![003web.jpg 003web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341993-c9bc0d1451bc4457b3debfcd64ae6039.jpg)
![005web.jpg 005web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341994-6242c7c85e0b97e23430c22064061487.jpg)
![006web.jpg 006web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341995-92e12aa793ddd080fc8d3f7c770c6270.jpg)
![013web.jpg 013web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341996-1cf69412f95f9ed737ea9b4ba4bfe720.jpg)
![017web.jpg 017web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341997-dd8abbf661678d4fd4349c1cd1c079a7.jpg)
I made 12 gauge tire rails, used 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle side-to-side for the center brace, 2 1/4" x 1/4" steel hub spreader with 1/2" pins to index the lug holes, 3/8" all-thread rod and chain to tighten up the tire and lock it (would use 1/2" if I did it again), 3/16" galvanized steel cable on a 3/8" black pipe rod with a nut at the outer end same as the lug nuts (uses a 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar). As can be seen, only about 2 1/2" of ground clearance is lost. The only mod to the trailer besides the new holes is the three-light bar has to come off because there isn't enough clearance between the tire and the lights with wires and plugs. I cut off the rivets, took the lights off the bar, and bent the bar to a U-shape and bolted it to a piece of angle. Tongue weight is mildly reduced. The rim is for a regular civilian Hummer H1 (cheap at the time) which means I had to buy a set of flange lug nuts as the stock, tapered ones won't work. I will get a stock rim some day, maybe. I would also make the tire rails about 4" longer to the rear.
![001web.jpg 001web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/342/342178-f4a00e38b3c1cee1d783424c0b1904db.jpg)
![002web.jpg 002web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341992-57a87ecf0d761fc04f1e89a4f028d395.jpg)
![003web.jpg 003web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341993-c9bc0d1451bc4457b3debfcd64ae6039.jpg)
![005web.jpg 005web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341994-6242c7c85e0b97e23430c22064061487.jpg)
![006web.jpg 006web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341995-92e12aa793ddd080fc8d3f7c770c6270.jpg)
![013web.jpg 013web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341996-1cf69412f95f9ed737ea9b4ba4bfe720.jpg)
![017web.jpg 017web.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/341/341997-dd8abbf661678d4fd4349c1cd1c079a7.jpg)
I made 12 gauge tire rails, used 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle side-to-side for the center brace, 2 1/4" x 1/4" steel hub spreader with 1/2" pins to index the lug holes, 3/8" all-thread rod and chain to tighten up the tire and lock it (would use 1/2" if I did it again), 3/16" galvanized steel cable on a 3/8" black pipe rod with a nut at the outer end same as the lug nuts (uses a 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar). As can be seen, only about 2 1/2" of ground clearance is lost. The only mod to the trailer besides the new holes is the three-light bar has to come off because there isn't enough clearance between the tire and the lights with wires and plugs. I cut off the rivets, took the lights off the bar, and bent the bar to a U-shape and bolted it to a piece of angle. Tongue weight is mildly reduced. The rim is for a regular civilian Hummer H1 (cheap at the time) which means I had to buy a set of flange lug nuts as the stock, tapered ones won't work. I will get a stock rim some day, maybe. I would also make the tire rails about 4" longer to the rear.
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