M1152A1 fuel check valves

[Dave2018]

This question is for a 2008 1152 with about 1k miles. It did sit a lot at base but has been running good till losing fuel to filter. Put new filter on when bought. Rechecked that filter, has small bit of rusty looking gunk and filter dirty but replaced again. Checked a 2001 manual but did not find the location of the fuel line supply/return check valves. Want to replace both. Asking first before pulling out a bunch of stuff not needed. Way tighter fit than my 998 was. The engine was never missing or having fuel problems till recently. It started by having to restart a few times and drive but then more frequent. Hope the check valves are just stuck with old diesel.
Thanks for all replies.

 

[Coug]

If it was running good then suddenly lost fuel to filter, I would start with replacing the mechanical fuel pump before digging into the fuel lines. It's still better to test the old pump, but they are relatively inexpensive, relatively easy to replace, and it's not uncommon for them to fail, so even if it's not a failed lift pump, it's not bad to replace or just have a spare on hand.

 

[Dave2018]

Thanks for your reply. Doing the fuel pump Saturday. dave

 

[Mogman]

Thanks for your reply. Doing the fuel pump Saturday. dave

Remember you MUST find a way to push the fuel pump push rod back up and hold it there when installing the new pump or it will immediately fail.
I find it easier to pull the steel plate behind the pump and grease up the shaft and put it back in place, some others have other ways of doing it.
I would of course test first, just replacing parts and hoping for the best is no way to go through life, it still could be the valves.
Most just remove the valves, they are in front of the fuel tank in the fuel feed and return lines.

 

[TOBASH]

That pushrod won’t stay up during reassembly.

If it falls down to soon you will break it.

The following is what most of us do:

The cheap way to keep it in place is use a generous dob of thick grease or Vaseline to keep it stuck up there during assembly. The dob of snot will wash away harmlessly after you’re done.

 

[Coug]

And if the grease isn't sticky enough, you can also put it in the freezer to thicken it up some more to help the rod stay in place.

 

[DREDnot]

Check valves. Just remove all that and replace with new diesel rated fuel hose

 

[Dave2018]

Remember you MUST find a way to push the fuel pump push rod back up and hold it there when installing the new pump or it will immediately fail.
I find it easier to pull the steel plate behind the pump and grease up the shaft and put it back in place, some others have other ways of doing it.
I would of course test first, just replacing parts and hoping for the best is no way to go through life, it still could be the valves.
Most just remove the valves, they are in front of the fuel tank in the fuel feed and return lines.

Thanks for the good info. will be looking to check the check valves when doing the tank sock also. Thanks,
dave

 

[Dave2018]

Check valves. Just remove all that and replace with new diesel rated fuel hose

View attachment 908189

Greta picture, Really appreciate you taking it. This 2008 truck is a little more involved than my sold 998. Thanks, Dave

 

[DREDnot]

Heres a look inside...

 

[Dave2018]

Heres a look inside...


View attachment 908608

Yes Sir,
I can see how these could clog up after 15 years installed. I am going to pull these first. May save a lot of extra work. The truck has about 1200 miles but did sit a lot. Great pics,
Dave