M1161 Transmission info?

[W427]

Got the actuator to move after soaking but it takes about 50lbs of pull force.

Normal. It's the boost pressure times the diaphragm area to move it, so it's surprisingly high effort. This allows the wastegate valve to be pulled hard shut against exhaust pressure, but be opened by relatively low boost pressure.

Is there a unit I can buy to get codes from the transmission computer to see if it is sending errors too?

IIRC, the trans controller has diagnostic wires attached but not connected. You should be able to find these and read codes. Maybe, and it may be only serial data, not a pulse stream (light) output. I think the diagram attached is correct for our ITVs, but no guarantees. If so, the Tech Guide should also apply. PCS has been non-responsive to others, but who knows. Give them a call and your best shot.

[EDIT] BTW, I have other documents, and a file called "TCU-CD.exe" which is supposedly the PCS software to interface with the TCU - but I haven't checked it in any way. LMK your progress, and you can decide if any other stuff I have might be useful. I had a no-shift trans issue that was simply a connector knocked loose off-roading, so I have not had motivation to look any deeper on this. I also had a programmer to help design a replacement TCU, but he evaporated during COVID, so ...

 

[JRKJeeper]

If I put in a manual boost controller and leave the other one plugged in would there be a chance it goes in limp? I think the controll is dead anyway.

 

[W427]

If I put in a manual boost controller and leave the other one plugged in would there be a chance it goes in limp?

Others have installed a manual boost control (you can make them DIY with hardware store parts for around $10). Yes, they functionally "work", and don't seem to pooch other stuff, though I have not had to do that myself. Note you should either (or both) install a boost pressure gauge, and/or adjust the MBC to reduce black smoke but not entirely eliminate it. Use care with boost.

The fuel injection pump has been set to expect a certain amount of boost, so if boost is low, it will smoke more as it feeds more fuel for the boost expected, but not the total until boost is acting on the pump diaphragm. It's a balance. No, I don't know if the original electronic control has any "smart" programming for boost control under various conditions, although they typically do. I'd try to stick with the original control if possible. The electronic boost valves are everywhere cheap.

I think the controll is dead anyway.

Not sure what makes you think that, but you can electrically bench-test the valve for function. If everything in the boost control system is proven to be working right, but it's sluggish and blowing black smoke, it's likely frozen or dead.

 

[JRKJeeper]

I did get ahead of myself thinking it was the controller. Instead of checking for boost leaks. Found a missing clamp on one of the tubes so that was the boost problem! Got the actuator free and tightened the boot back on and the smoke was 80% gone and the power was back… drove for an hour trying to wake up the trans valves. Got back to the shed and trans pan was leaking all over. So I’m done with messsing the trans. A trans shop will fix that next week and then I’ll try and be problem free for 24hrs. But maybe I’m not that lucky. Even with a bad trans it’s a boat load of fun. Thank you for your insight W427. I greatly appreciate you.